Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Well, I probably wouldn't ask this if the search completely worked, but here is goes... As many of us Textralia owners know, this clutch tends to engage very early, right off the floor. Has there been ANY solution to remedy this issue? Many say bleed the system more, but I have bled it beyond belief, and it still had the same issue. The reason I'm asking is because I am about to do a 1000 check-up on my clutch because it has been acting quite funny lately(even earlier engagement, lots of chatter, hard to shift, not fully disengaging, etc...). When I put it back together, I would like to fix the early engagment problem. This might include using a shim, I don't know. I am not buying an adjustable master since it just masks the problem, instead of actually fixing it.

Thanks for the help!

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

shim the slave

J-Rod

How are you bleeding the clutch? Many folks bleed the clutch improperly, and even though they may spend hours doing so, they see no improvement. You may be bleeding it properly, but I just want find out if we need to check the basics first. So, lets start there first.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Well, I did the method where you press down the pedal, crack the bleeder on the slave, close the bleeder, than release the pedal. That did not work, so I did the Mity Vac method which got it to work. If I take it apart I will most likely bleed the slave and the master seperately, on a bench, then reinstall.

Slow00ls1T/a

could be completely way off so for give me if i am but didnt they say that pressure plate bolts backin out could be the problem

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

They said that may be the cause of the recent problems, which is the reason I'm even checking it, but ever since it was first installed the clutch has engaged very early. I would like to fix both problems while I have it all apart.

J-Rod

Definitely check the bolts. But, it sounds like your bleeding method may be off also.

You crack the bleeder, press the clutch to the floor with the bleeder open, while the pedal is on the floor, close the bleeder, then release the pedal with the bleeder closed. Repeat this 3-4 times (or until the pedal is hard).

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I suppose everyone has their own methods. I'm just going to bleed the master and the slave on a bench. Then maybe do some additional bleeding in car if necessary.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

i bought an nice line with speed bleeder thing off this site .I plan on installing it when go in to work on my clutch.It looks like it might be a lot better than messing with that horrible bleeder setup.I have seen guys drill a hole in the floor to get straight access from inside the car at the bleeder.Gm should have put that hole in factory.
They should also have used external slave like the lt1 and lots of other cars or put a removable plate on the trans to make it easier to get to the slave without having to drop the tranny.I am tempted to cut the case up and make an access plate.
Also have used the mityvac method too and it seemed to work ok.
This is making it harder to figure out what clutch I want to get for planned turbo 99.
I am torn between textralia or ls7.The ls7 is cheaper and has no chatter,supposed to take good power but then the ls6 was supposed to be good and turned out pretty poor in hard use.The textalia is pricey as heck and thought they were all pretty much working good.With new master and slave and proper bleed not much should be going wrong except for improper torque or lack of loctite on the flywheel and pressure plates..loctite is your friend!!

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

I had the same problem you do, and spoke with Peter about it many many times. I bleed mine every way possible to bleed the system. Mine always had a low engagement so I built an adjustable master to correct the problem, but it started getting worse like yours is. So I pulled the tranny and found the PP bolts loose, after correcting the issue and reinstalling the tranny and a stock master cylinder, it was much better but still had a low engagment.

I put my adjustable back in but I didn't like how far I was having to adjust it out to get the engagement right. So I pulled the tranny again and installed a .075 shim, checked PP bolts and all where tight. But I still didn't feel like it was enough shim so I pulled it again and intalled a .100 shim... I still ended up having to use my adjustable master cylinder to get the pedal position where I want it, but it is only a hair longer than the stock rod at it's current adjustment.

I would try a .100 shim when you go back with it. The thing about shims is it's a trail and error deal cause every setup will very.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

What did you do to correct the loose PP bolts so they don't back out again? Also, where do you get shims?

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

More loctite and about 75ft-lbs