camaroguy_02

my goal for my 02 camaro z28 is to just get up to 400rwhp and torque, and from wut i can tell, if i upgrade my exhaust to some longtube headers, ORY-pipe, an some random tips, that wuld net me most of my gain in hp, along with maybe an aftermarket underdrive pulley. but wut else wuld put me at ~400? im not too sure about putting cams in, as i've heard if not done rite, they can make ur car sound very raspy - that they're more of a finishing mod, after u get most everything else u want in.

am i right in thinkin these mods wuld net most of my hp gain from ~300bhp to 400? or am i just totally off an these mods wuld only gimme abt 25hp?

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

well you are NOT going to hit 400rwhp with just exhaust and underdrive pullies. You probably wouldnt even hit 400 crank horsepower. you will need full bolt ons and a cam to get your 400. or full bolt ons and spray would get ya there too.

Benjamin Russick

iTrader: (1)

You'll probably be at about 350rwhp with headers/exhaust/pulley depending on how strong the car was at baseline. Do you have a 6spd or auto? 400rwhp is no problem with a cam/bolt-on set-up, but 400rwtq might be a challenge. You could just spray a 100shot and call it a day...

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

Full boltons, cam and a tune will get your around that range in a M6

camaroguy_02

yea i got an auto, but im afraid of using any nitrous setups. guess im too afraid that it'll backfire an blow my engine ka-put.

so, if im tryin to get 400, i wuld need full bolt-ons plus an exhaust setup. wut about those cams tho? wuld those really add any power worth spending the money for?

also, for torque, wuld changin out the gears or differential improve my torque value?

thanks for the help guys!

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

for an auto, you will need stall, heads, and cam + bolt ons. w/o using n2o

camaroguy_02

ok, so as far as the bolt-ons that are required, what wuld constitute the "full bolt-on" setup in order to get 400? i did a search an it looks like there's mixed feelings as to a full bolt-on setup (some say its anything that doesnt touch oil, some say anything that simply "bolts on," etc.) im just tryin to get to 400...

300bhp/ton

Before you spend any money I'd recommend reading and learning a bit about cars and engines in general. If you don't you'll end up spending a wedge of oney on pointless parts that yield little or nothing.

LS1's (that the engine in a 98-02 Fbody) are OHV (over head valve) which means they only have ONE cam, not cams.

Exhaust setup would be considered a 'bolt-on' not an additon too.

And gears do not affect torque directly, not from the engines stand point anyhow.

Now the question is, do you just want headline dyno numbers or do you want to make your car faster and usable? Because they aren't always the same thing.

There's a mod guide in my sig, click the link and have a read.

Money is the name of the game and should dictate what you do, if you have $12,000-15,000 waiting to be spent then FI (forced induction) would be the way. However this is not the norm, so most of us have to build the car/motor up bit by bit.

Standard mods to do first are induction and exhaust this helps the car breath and free up lost horse power from a more restricted factory setup.

1. A lid (for the air box) is a good starting place.

2. porting your own TB is another good mod (can be done for ~£75 if you don't want to do it yourself).

3. Combine a ported TB with FRA (free ram air) and throttle bump stop mod. (IMO nearly all of the other 'free' mods are pointless and a waste of time).

4. Exhuast will need a new catback (lots of makes but don't get Flowmaster), and some Long Tube headers (shorties & mids not worth it) combined with a new Y pipe (hi-flow cats will not really restrict power, 'can' make your car sound better and will keep you emissions legal. If not then Off Road Y pipe (ORY)).

5. Pulley is IMO not worth it, especially if you plan on a supercharger one day as you'd have to remove it.

6. You already have the LS6 style intake manifold so no need to change it.

7. Stall (torque convertor) 3400 or above will work, it won't produce HP but it will make you faster. A tranny cooler will also be needed.

8. Suspension & chassis mod, such as LCA, PHB, STB, SFC these will all help put the power down and make the car more stable.

This will see you to about a real word 350rwhp or so.

To get more is going to require a cam, this means all the bits to support it as well and will sadly run the price a bit higher. You'll need an agressive cam and a good tune to really hit 400rwhp else you'll also need heads.

Nitrous is always an option and can be reliable if done correctly but it isn't always as cheap as it may first appear.

As for rear gears, you will eaither have 2.73 or 3.23 if you have a stock auto. Lowering the ratio (numerically higher such as, 3.42, 3.73, 4.10) will improve accelaration but at the cost of terminal speed in gear and worse mpg due to higher rpms. This is always a possibility although a good torque convertor will make final drive gears less of an issue. The problem is the stock 10 bolt 7.5" rear on the Fbody's will break, espcially with more than stock power. Most upgrade to a 12 bolt or a Ford 9" rear as they are stronger, but of course any gears bought for the 10 bolt will then be redundant. Personally I'd wait until you get a new rear before doing gears.

DR's (drag radial's) tyres are a good bet for track use, but with the extra grip will put you one step closer to breaking the 10 bolt.

HowellSoccer88

iTrader: (18)

Read what 300bhp/ton said and take it for what its worth because its a lot of good information. Why would you be scared of nitrous? If its run right then its the best bang for the buck mod available imo. An added benefit of nitrous is you can choose when to use it. If you run a dry setup with a few basic safety precautions, you will achieve your 400/400 goal really quick and easy. A window switch will allow you to spray between rpms and not through shifts to help prolong the life of your tranny. A fuel pressure safety switch will automatically shut down the system if your fuel pressure drops below a certain ammount. A wot switch allows the system to only spray when you are at wide open throttle. I was in the same boat as you and was about 2 days away from going the cam only route before all this info was brought to my attention about the nitrous. I am expecting to be around 350 with full bolt ons and 425-450ish with nitrous! Its just something else to consider...

camaroguy_02

wow, thanks guys. saved me a BUNCH of money! lol...that'll work for me.

thanks again for the info, really appreciate it!