Pre clutch install q's.
03-22-2006, 08:53 PM
#1
Pre clutch install q's. I have a 98 Trans Am with bolt ons, and I'm getting ready to install an LS6 clutch/flywheel. This isn't a question of which clutch, so I don't need any suggestions on that.
I have never had any hydraulic problems, but I am planning on changing the slave anyway when I install the new clutch. Should I worry about changing the Master if it has NEVER given me any problems?
Also my friend has a 2000 Z28, and he told me that I would need a 1/8 inch spacer to go behind the slave, or the clutch would have engagement problems. I know that suposedly the 01-02's had the clutch, so it should bolt up to them, but are the 98-00's different?
What would I have to do about bleeding the system after installing the slave, which comes pre-bled?
How hard is changing ALL of the fluid in the system? As in the fluid is pretty black, and I want to try to get rid of as much of it as possible.
Thanks for your time and patience.
I have never had any hydraulic problems, but I am planning on changing the slave anyway when I install the new clutch. Should I worry about changing the Master if it has NEVER given me any problems?
Also my friend has a 2000 Z28, and he told me that I would need a 1/8 inch spacer to go behind the slave, or the clutch would have engagement problems. I know that suposedly the 01-02's had the clutch, so it should bolt up to them, but are the 98-00's different?
What would I have to do about bleeding the system after installing the slave, which comes pre-bled?
How hard is changing ALL of the fluid in the system? As in the fluid is pretty black, and I want to try to get rid of as much of it as possible.
Thanks for your time and patience.
03-22-2006, 11:21 PM
#2
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I wouldn't replace the master if it's working fine. You can do that any time you want without pulling the tranny anyway. I did the same thing with my 2000 and it still works fine.
I don't think you need the spacer unless it comes with the kit (like the Spec's do). I've actually tried my Spec both with and without and couldn't tell the difference.
After the install, suck all of the fluid out of the master and replace with new. Then bleed the system at the slave. That part is a little tricky given the location and how sensitive the system is to any air. I acutally cut a hole in my floor pan so I can bleed mine myself--since I've pulled the trans at least 6 times already. In any case, you need to pump the clutch up good and then open and close the bleeder valve maybe a half second at first (just until you feel the pedal pressure release). Do it that way two or three times. Then for the last couple of times, just open and close it very fast. That method has always worked for me. Don't forget to fill the master. Afterwards, check your fluid every two or three months and if it's discolored, suck it out of the reservoir and replace with new. If you do this frequently, you don't need to worry about flushing the system.
I don't think you need the spacer unless it comes with the kit (like the Spec's do). I've actually tried my Spec both with and without and couldn't tell the difference.
After the install, suck all of the fluid out of the master and replace with new. Then bleed the system at the slave. That part is a little tricky given the location and how sensitive the system is to any air. I acutally cut a hole in my floor pan so I can bleed mine myself--since I've pulled the trans at least 6 times already. In any case, you need to pump the clutch up good and then open and close the bleeder valve maybe a half second at first (just until you feel the pedal pressure release). Do it that way two or three times. Then for the last couple of times, just open and close it very fast. That method has always worked for me. Don't forget to fill the master. Afterwards, check your fluid every two or three months and if it's discolored, suck it out of the reservoir and replace with new. If you do this frequently, you don't need to worry about flushing the system.
