STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

i wanna learn how to paint using one of the small touch up guns. the largest thing i would be painting would be 2' x 4' and MOST items will be half that size. ive got paint experience. im exellent at prep work. and im excelent with a rattle can (ive blown away people my rattle can work, lids, FRCs etc) i can make them like glass. but there are size limitiations with a rattle can. so to paint this bigger stuff i need to learn how to use a spray gun.

SO any advice would be greatly appreciated. also i have some specific questions.

1 what brand sprayer? not lookin to spend much but would like soemthing quality.

2 do i need a special compressor? or will mine work just fine. what PSi?

3 what ratio do i thin it? (lookin for specific measurements, not "thick as milk" etc) ill be spraying Dupont nason astron synthetic enamel

4 the sign of a amatuer paint job is usually debris in the paint. is this due to a unclean paint booth? or is that crap in the paint mix and sprayed threw the gun. also what causes orange peel? obviously runs are caused by too thin paint or applied too thick.

5 im sure ill think of some more questions

im excited about learning and getting started! i cant wait!

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

I've been doing all my research at http://www.autobody101.com in their forums. Lots of good info there, everything that you ask.

Here's what I've gathered / read. Keep in mind this makes me an "internet expert" (as in, I have no real world experience at all ). Compressor matching the gun is key. Compressor needs to flow more CFM than the gun flows. If it doesn't, you'll likely get in trouble (though not so much on small panels). Small touch-up guns don't take as much air as larger HVLP guns. http://www.spraygunworld.com has touch up guns and regular sprayers. Sprayer can go cheap if you aren't spraying metallics... for metallics, you want the best you can afford, and then save up some more.

If your compressor isn't up to snuff, you can "T" another compressor in, or you can buy a new one.

For debris, filter, watertrap, filter, filter. I'm even going to do a 50' coil of copper as an "intercooler" to help condense moisture - and place a watertrap after that.

Oh yeah, safety. Some sort of forced breathing air and a hood is a good idea. I'm thinking about making my own setup. The ones that are out there (the Ebay respirator system) uses a $25 air mattress inflator, or the HobbyAir2 uses a 2-stage $85 vacuum cleaner motor.

I haven't gotten to the mixing or technique yet. I'm still stuck on hardware.

STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

thanks! ill check all that info out!

BanditTA

iTrader: (3)

I use devilibis (sp?) for my guns, usually run the compressor at around 20psi if its a gravity gun more if its a siphon and any average size compressor will work. Gravity guns are the latest and greatest but the siphon guns are generally cheaper. Always run a dryer on your airline otherwise you will get moisture in the process (that sucks) or drain all the water outta your compressor and hope you dont' get any while painting.

If you dont have a paint booth wet down the floor to keep from kicking up dust and debree as you paint. Painting is more of an art than anything else, orange peel is from not laying the paint/clear on heavy enough. The trick is to lay it down heavy enough so it won't run but will still flow out. Orange peel is caused when the paint didn't flow out and you get that orange peel finish on when your done. You will get orange peel you always do, generall from missing a spot. Orange peel can easily be fixed with some wet sanding and buffing.

Mix the paint to what the manufacture recommends each is different. Don't worry about getting it exact get it close and your usually good to do.

O one other thing there are two types of paint single stage (your rattle can) and two stage (also called base coat clear coat) Where you lay your color base down and then clear it. There are also 3 stage paints today but not to many companies are doing it (GM uses it on some of there paints example a trailblazer red), a 3 stage usually contains a candy (transparent paint)

Wow thats a lot of info hope that helps with the basics

Mike

STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

what shoud i get 1.4/1.5/1.7? ill be spraying metallics single and 2 stage
im looking at the titan 19000(i know i know, its all i can afford)
that paint i use is single stage(read on teh back in has clear in it. but i usually always cleared over it. but i just used it cause thats what they sold me to be put into rattle cans. what paint do u guys use?

what about the compressor ive just got some cheapy. not sure on the HP(maybe 2.5-3.5), but the tank is about 4 -6 gallons. will that work?

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Smaller tips for paint and/or base/clear, larger tip for primers. 1.4 for base/clear. Though on SATA guns ($$$) they state for the miniguns, you take .4 off of the tip rating (for example, a 1.0 mini = 1.4 regular). Don't know if that's true with the Titans or not.

The hp and capacity don't matter... it's the CFM specification that matters. That Titan is rated at 4-7 CFM. That's still quite a bit of air, though if you're not spraying big parts, you'll probably be OK. If you find that your compressor is running 100% with the gun, it's not big enough. And keep in mind that whenever the compressor is running, it's making water. Water = Bad. The Astro detail gun is twice the price (at $80), but only requires 4 cfm, which your compressor can probably handle.

Also keep in mind that I'm an internet expert and have no real world experience with any of these tools.

STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

yeah i looked at that 1.0 mini gun. so i think you are correct.

hmm yeah i been looking at other LVLP guns for that reason. my compressor aint nothin special...

lol i love your internet expert responces. i wish everyone said that when it applied.

so many choices and not enough money!