GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

you know the steel braided line that goes into the trans... the plastic clip on that bronze colored fitting broke off.. do i need to get a new master cylinder???

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

yes becasue you cant buy the hose seperately.

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

damn it... thats what i thought,... the damn dealership just pulled on it to get it out, rather than pushing it in to release the line.. morons..


anyone have the # to the updated Clutch Master Cylinder that doesnt have the line restriction??

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

im not sure that they did away with the restriction, but you just need to ask for a new master since there's only one part number..i dont have it on hand right now. Id be safe and do the drill mod anyways just to be sure.
Nino

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

ok... cool..

last question... is that nylon fitting on the master or the slave? reason being i ordered a new slave.. i didnt know if i needed the new master..

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Off the top of my head I cant remember, but I want to say its on the slave. I have a brand new one sitting at home in a box, but just so happens that im not at home.

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

if ur talking about the white discommet fitting, its on the line that runs off of the master. the slave is just the female end. if its broken, then u need a new master.

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

got my new master... had it overnighted from MI.. sweet.. i guess i should be doing the drill mod now right?

my question is this... i know it needs to be rebled.. so after i drill, all those little shavings have to go back through the steel line and out the quick disconnect fitting??

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

while your drilling, go in and out with the bit so you pull what shavings you can out. then with a bulb syringe squeeze fluid through the line ( the line shouldnt be connected to the master or the slave at this point since your drilling out the end that goes into the master) open the fitting at the other end with a punch and let the fluid bleed through until its clear.

Nargenar

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about a potentially stupid question, I did a search....

I have a 1998 LS1 Formula, and am getting ready to do all the master and slave replacement.

Can I use my existing Master and just do the drill mod? or do I buy the new master which would not require the drill mod? or do I buy the new master and still do the drill mod? Also, was the slave cyl. updated for the new years as well, or not? If it was not updated to a less restrictive one, then should I leave it alone?

Thanks,

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

does that help?

Nargenar

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot, it does help alot. So I'll get the new Master, do the drill mod, and then get a new Slave and install it as is.

Does the New slave come with a throw out bearing, and everything I need or do i need to purchase everything seperate?

Also, was there an update to the slave cyl as well, or are they the same for all years?
I looked up the part number and I thought it said something about 97+ Just wanted to make sure I have the right new slave part.

Thanks again,
Raj

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

its been updated. if you order one, you'll get the updated one. it does come with a TO bearing.

Nargenar

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

I was reading on another post, that someone also bought a pilot bearing PN: 14061685 also. Is this recommended to replace?

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

forget a bulb syringe,, just poke a rubber tipped air gun in the quick disconnect end, and blow those chips out.