z28pat

iTrader: (10)

I just car a cam (224/230) and a 3200 stall,
the car was tuned by they were having some issues with the dyno, so I have to have it retuned,

well, on my way home I floored it from 60mph to 100mph, and the car downshifted fine, but it didn't shift until what looked like 6400-6500 rpms, it didn't hit the rev limiter even floored all the way,

but is that a safe point for it to shift?
I remember it shifteing at 6000 rmps stock.

pat

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

Do you have an aftermarket tach? If not you stock tach is inaccurate and slow (so is every stock f body tach). The tranny is shifting before that rpm in real time. I sometimes see 7000 on my stock tach.

z28pat

iTrader: (10)

Really,
I never heard about that, but that makes me feel better,
I didn't think it should be allowed to shift that high,
but what about the fact that the tach showed 6000 shifts before,
could it be because of the stall?

pat

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

you said this started after your cam install. The cam you have installed should put you at around a 7k redline. I haven't heard of stock tach's being inaccurate but it may be true, or it's normal for your car to shift at 6500 rpms with the pedal to the floor. Put it it nuetral and mash the pedal to see at which rpm it starts bouncing off the redline. I have an m6, but hope the advice helps.

z28pat

iTrader: (10)

Thanks,
No it never shifted that high before (don't wanna blow it up, it's my DD)
so I"m gonna see at what rpms it'll bounce off the redline,

in the afternoon, to not wake up the neighborhood.
pat

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

I pity my neighbors' ears as well

It shouldn't hurt your car to redline in nuetral because there is no load.

Also let the rpms drop and then punch it again to see how responsive your tach is, compared to actual throttle position and rpms.
Best of luck

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

ttt..

Travis99LS1

iTrader: (2)

I really hope your joking..

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

The car should shift higher in the rpms since stronger springs have been put in. You did change the springs right?

HottLS1Z

iTrader: (5)

me too

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

Better than redlining in drive, No? Like i said I have an m6, but am sure that redlining when going through driveline is a lot worse.
The engine is under least stress when idle(m6) because it's not going through clutch, ds, rear. Wouldn't the same be accurate for an a4 car, not having to go through tq.conver.,ds,rear. It's not going to flood the engine in a 2 minute nuetral test.

Can you state your reasons or advice for the post, Travis?

z28pat

iTrader: (10)

yeah, I changed the spring, pushrods, and put in the ls2 timing chain,

pat

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

When it was tuned, didn't thay change your shift points up? Adding a cam and stall you should not be shifting at stock shift points, you should be shifting around peak HP now.

My tach reads slower than what my actual RPMs are, for example, at WOT 6800 RPM will read more like 6200 RPM.

Dan

Travis99LS1

iTrader: (2)

It is a hard thing to explain. When the engine is under a load, it has a means of transferring all the power it is generating (through the transmission,driveshaft,rearend,etc..). When you free-rev the engine, it has no where for all this energy to go..therefore creating more stress on all moving parts of the engine. Like i said, its not an easy thing to explain...My instructor at school, who used to build race engines for Petty Enterprises, explained it to us like this, he said to take a baseball and throw it as hard as you can...now, this time with no baseball in your hand, just act as if you were going to throw a baseball as far as you can, but with an empty hand....I bet your shoulder is gonna hurt like ****, if your not really throwing a baseball. The ball is creating a path for all that energy/momentum to travel, taking a huge amount of stress off of your shoulder. The way i think of it is like a bicycle. Get on a bike, and pedal your *** off on a straight road..you will have no problems keeping your feet on the pedals, since all your energy is being used to move you and the bike, now stop, and take the chain off the bike...now try and pedal with no chain on the bike as fast as you can..I bet your feet will fly off the pedals...Its the same theory that goes for revving an engine with no load. Now i'm not saying that nobody does it...because **** man, everybody does it to an extent...but i would definately not go anywhere near redline with no load on the engine..but thats just me.

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

Stock tachs are slow. I got this from 2 performance shops that I deal with on a regular basis.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Well there's only one way to find out where she shifts, take her to the track.

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

I see what you mean travis, didn't think about all of the power having nowhere to go except rotating around.(stuck in limbo)ha
It's hard as hard to explain as comparing an a4 with m6.
When tuned, Pat's shiftpoints should have been set, but if he doesn't know his redline then wouldn't the nuetral test be the safest before having to pay $??His shop should have given him a dyno chart to show peak hp. Shifting above the peak hp would not be optimal, but maybe normal with an a4 with the pedal mashed.
good explanation trav.

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

ttt. What's less stress?? Redline in neutral or redline in drive??

Give us your input

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

ttt...

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

How about starting a new thread since it's pretty much off topic, you may get more responce that way.