Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Well, here's the deal. I had to pull my clutch a couple months ago because the pressure plate bolts were backing out (shop had used anti-seize insead of lock-tite on them ) So, I replaced the pressure plate bolts, flywheel bolts, and the master cylinder all at the same time. I used red lock-tite on the pressure plate bolts and set them to 55bs of torque...

Now, the directions with the ARP FLYWHEEL BOLTS specified to install to either 60lbs using engine moly-lube or to 75lbs with 30wt engine oil. It said to only use either of those to coat the bolts. I WAS going to use red lock-tite till reading that. Ended out installing the bolts to 75ft/lbs lightly coated in 30 weight engine oil.

As a side note, I also managed to suck some air into the Master cylinder when bleeding the clutch (accidently let the resevoir run dry)...my bad. At the time didn't seem to make a difference.

So, here's my concern now: At times the clutch has a solid feel through the entire pedal range. At random intervals it will then have about 2 inches or so of free-play at the top of the pedal before feeling the hydraulic pressure. The clutch thus engages an inch or so closer to the floor when this happens. If I drive on the interstate for a while full pressure is restored. Also, if I pump the clutch several times this also restores full pressure (at least most of the time). So, I was thinking that ok, I have an air buble in the master cylinder somewhere. I used a pressure bleeder on it a few times to get the air out. Got some out but still feels the same.

Now, recently I noticed a rattle from under my car. I traced it to the exhaust banging the underside. The Y-pipe is vibrating a good 1/2" or so when the engine is idling and the motor is vibrating laterally on the motor mounts. The RPM's don't show any engine surges, but the engine is definetly vibrating laterally on the mounts. I know the engine is supposed to move on the mounts, but seeing the headers and Y-pipe rattling a good 1/2" vertically didn't strike me as normal. I have a TR224 cam and an STS turbo, but I didn't recall this much exhaust vibration before. To be honest, I never really paid attention to it till looking under the car this evening.

So.......is it possible my FLYWHEEL bolts are backing off and causing the engine to vibrate? Possibly being my clutch problem too? I'd really, really hate to pull the trans for something silly.... but if this fits the symptoms of it I'll bite the bullet and pull it again. Easier than replacing the engine!

Any input wpuld be greatly appreciated. Even if I'm off the mark here, better to hear that so I can quit worrying about it.

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

I seriously doubt it's the flywheel bolts backing off. Especially if you torqued them to the proper spec with the proper pattern. If you had it in neutral and held a mid to high range RPM for a few seconds are you getting any excessive Vibration? If not the pressure plate and flywheel are fine.

Sounds like you've got some air still traveling around the hydraulic system. Try another pressure bleed or manual bleed. If they doesn't seem to get it you might want to consider bench bleeding the master.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the input.

89Formulaws6

iTrader: (52)

did you mark the location of where the pressureplate and flywheel met when you took it apart and put it back together?

sounds like it could be your clutch is worn if you have alot of pedal free play

also to test for a loose flywheel you rev the car to 1000rpms in neutral and shut it off and then quickly turn the key back to the run position, if you hear a knock they are loose

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

No, the clutch isn't worn. Saw that with my own two eyes when retorquing the pressure plate bolts. Clutch is a Textralia OZ700 with a total of 4K miles on it. I'm a bit lost on the rev to 1K, shut off and then ignition to run? The car idles at 1100RPM. Shutting the car off results in a brief rattle. Do you mean turn the car off and then restart the engine right away? Or is this rattle when the car is shut off what you are referring to?
As for alignment, the pressure plate only fits one way onto the flywheel due to the dowel pins, so no issues on alignment.

Appreciate the input, just a bit confused about the off then to "run" thing. Not sure if you meant to shut off the engine then restart the engine real quick. If you did, then no there are no rattles. It's when I let the car idle and then when I turn the car off that I hear this rattling noise and see the exhaust vibrating.

89Formulaws6

iTrader: (52)

haha yeah your i was typeing fast and rembering exacly how my teacher use to say it word for word.

i'd try bleeding the slave some more

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Appreciate the replies. I revved the car up to 4K+ in neutral and did the start, off, restart immediately method too. No rattleing. I DID find FIVE separate places where my exhaust was banging under the car.....to include one on the trans member and one on the driveshaft loop (which is why I was thinking the sound was coming from the trans.) Also had a K-member bolt coming loose. Explains a lot too. All fixed and a "quiet" car now.

Thanks again for the input. It helped steer me in the right direction.