sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

ok, to make it short my rpms are higher on the spray during a run (duh-herrrr ), therefore i reach my shutoff rpm (6000 rpms) before i my car is ready to shift. this was the idea, to not spray through the shifts.

the only problem is that when the spray shuts off @ 6krpms the rpms fall down to ~5750 again and it sprays again, THEN shifts .

so far i've tried lowering the shift mph, to try to achieve the shift faster and therefore not have it spray twice. the only problem with this is if i go to far i'll just spray through the shift, which im certain will toast my stock trans (besides shift kit and cooler).

WHAT are some tips. i have it very close now but im having the window switch shut off at 6k, the shift rpm at 6010, and shift mph a few below my n/a bin file.

i guess the converter is too high of a stall? it is 3800 2.5 str.

any help is appreciated, i've gone through 2.5 bottles in like 3 days trying to tune this out, and im getting pissed because i don't want to run it at the track till i get this figured out.

******* 4l60e, wish i had a th400 so i could just spray it straight through

thanks in advance.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

it MIGHT make me feel a little better also if other people have this problem and still run fast times. i wouldn't feel like the only jackass who's nitrous hits twice in the same gear.

227Hawk

iTrader: (1)

Your tune should be using R.P.M. only to control the shifts. And your going to need to seperate the window shut off point and the shift by more then 10 R.P.M.. You can try 100 rpm but most people are in the 200 range difference.
I used H.P. Tuners to lower my miles per hour requirement for shifting and use R.P.M.only.
Hawk

zspot98

iTrader: (87)

Hawk do you have a copy of the file that you used for this?

227Hawk

iTrader: (1)

Yep Send me an E-mail Address.
Hawk

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

the way i have it now, it is set to shift at 6020 and it shuts off at 6k. i KNOW it should be more of a gap there, but keep reading. also i got the 6020 from a log where i saw that my MAX rpms when the spray shut off was 6019 or something around there before the rpms dropped down and it hit again then shifted. i dont' see how the rpm method would solve my problem, i'll either have it spray twice or a huge hesitation before the shift.

right now i have it so the 1-2 shift is perfect, about .5 sec between shutoff and then shift and bam back into it. then the 2-3 shift it shuts off for like .5 sec, sprays for another second shuts off for a split second then shifts.

i think this is as good as im going to get it for performance. i could make it like 227hawk said, but i'll have like 2 seconds of hesitation between shutoff time and then the shift to 3rd, during which the car falls flat on it's face.

i will try tuning strictly with rpm only however when i get the $ to waste another couple bottles .

## 227hawk- how long of a hesitation is there between shutoff and shift for your setup? im getting the feeling you don't have as high of a stall either- what is your stall speed?

anybody else?

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

everyone i know just sprays through the shifts. On stocker trans too. thats all im gonna do.

227Hawk

iTrader: (1)

I'm using a vig 3200 with a 2.5 STR. What i'm confused about is the 'hits again part' before shifting.You lowered the MPH shift requirements below the
stock table by 'A few mph below N/A bin.' Sounds like you need to lower the requirements for the 2>3 shift.
Hawk
What Dia. to you have figured on the M.T.s that might be why you're having
mph shift problems.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

when i reach 6k rpms on the juice the window switch shuts the spray off. since it hasn't reached the threshold of my shift point setting (now 6050) the rpms drop from the loss of power, and they drop enough to go back into the window that im spraying in- hence it sprays again and then shifts.

i have 255/50/16 mickeys on it, stock is 245/50/16.

im going to try lowering the mph to like 70 and putting the shutoff at 6k and the shift at 6100- but like i said i think it'll do the same thing since it won't hit the 6100rpm threshold when the spray shuts off 100rpm sooner.

also, i don't think that 3200 is quite as loose at my 3800, not to mention the gear im running makes it that much slushier.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

after brainstorming im thinking of trying the opposite of what you said 227 hawk-

if i log my mph of when the car is at 6krpms and the spray shuts off, i can get a constant of where the car is at at that rpm. then i add a couple mph to the shift point and im golden. it'll shut off and quickly after achieve the mph threshold, rpm drop and all.

now if the goddam rain would dry up

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

update==

after using the mph method and dropping the shift rpms out of the picture, i was able to achieve the slight delay between shutoff and shift that i was looking for. only did one run which seemed very close to where i want it, i won't really know till i get some races/track time (i don't feel like wasting any more nitrous tuning the car when it is that close).

so what i found is use the MPH to tune the shift point, if you start spraying through the converter . although it can be dangerous, a little logging and you'll get it dead on.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I thought that MPH AND RPM settings had to be reached to get the shift?

I know it's obvious but it sounds like the bottle is really stretching that TC.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

yes- it needs to meet BOTH thresholds.

i don't think im really stretching the torque converter, it wouldn't be a problem if i sprayed it through the shifts- but i refuse to at this point. i guess in all actuality it isn't spraying "though" the converter, just making it stall/slip alot higher than it does n/a. this is normal from what i've read- more power achieves higher stall on a given converter.