LS1 Camaro White Gauge + Led Cluster Install w/ pics
03-31-2006, 11:57 PM
#1
LS1 Camaro White Gauge + Led Cluster Install w/ pics Finished up the cluster work today. Night pictures are cleaned up to be at what I think is an accurate brightness level. If the image looks black in a dark room, the brightness level should be very close to real.
Daytime picture:
Night picture:
Night picture 2:
Purchased:
1.) White overlays from eBay. $22. Sticker type, no needle removal.
2.) IP led kit from LedGauges (sponsor). Hyperwhite. $32. Optional, but makes up for the overlays' decreased brightness. Note that LED's are on/off, you will lose your fading ability with them. Blue and red are also available, but they make the cluster look much different at night. These are the whites, the ebay overlays give a blue tint using white bulbs.
Tools:
1.) Socket & screwdriver to remove dash panels and cluster
2.) Soapy water spray bottle, flashlight, credit card, and lots of patience for overlay install.
3.) Hot glue gun for seating led bulbs.
4.) Flat black paint marker or electrical tape (secret mod).
Removing the IP cluster:
I have this down to a science. It can be done without dropping the steering column (in Camaros at least). If you aren't good manipulating things out you're probably better off dropping the column, and due to this, I am going to assume in the write up that you did drop the column. It CAN be done without dropping the column, but if you are only doing this once it'll be a lot easier to just drop the column.
1.) Drop lower panel and steering column - Two hex heads on the bottom edge of the lower panel, two phillips screws on the main flat. Two bolts hold the column up.
2.) Remove cluster trim ring - Two hex heads fastened upward in the cluster ring. Four metal push-lock pins on the lower bottom of the trim ring. Be careful! Undo the two upper hex heads and pull the bottom four push-locks out. The push locks may stay in the dash holes, if so just pop them out and screw them back onto the cluster ring.
3.) The cluster is held in by 4 hex head screws, 1 at each corner. Get them all out and stored somewhere. The cluster pulls straight out off of it's connector. Grab the outside and pull gently. If you got all 4 screws, it'll come out.
- This is the part that is a real pita
if you don't drop the column. I can tell you this, if you pull the tilt wheel lever and force the wheel down, then unscrew the tilt wheel lever, while still holding the wheel down, there is just enough room from the extra tilt give to allow fishing the cluster out tilting the bottom and pulling the lower left corner first, then right. It's nearly impossible unless you know just what to force and just how to get it out. That's why I recommend dropping the column if you are only doing this once.
4.) Now you have to get the cluster out. Very easy if you dropped the column, it'll pop right out. If you didn't... see my note above and good luck to you.
Daytime picture:
Night picture:
Night picture 2:
Purchased:
1.) White overlays from eBay. $22. Sticker type, no needle removal.
2.) IP led kit from LedGauges (sponsor). Hyperwhite. $32. Optional, but makes up for the overlays' decreased brightness. Note that LED's are on/off, you will lose your fading ability with them. Blue and red are also available, but they make the cluster look much different at night. These are the whites, the ebay overlays give a blue tint using white bulbs.
Tools:
1.) Socket & screwdriver to remove dash panels and cluster
2.) Soapy water spray bottle, flashlight, credit card, and lots of patience for overlay install.
3.) Hot glue gun for seating led bulbs.
4.) Flat black paint marker or electrical tape (secret mod).
Removing the IP cluster:
I have this down to a science. It can be done without dropping the steering column (in Camaros at least). If you aren't good manipulating things out you're probably better off dropping the column, and due to this, I am going to assume in the write up that you did drop the column. It CAN be done without dropping the column, but if you are only doing this once it'll be a lot easier to just drop the column.
1.) Drop lower panel and steering column - Two hex heads on the bottom edge of the lower panel, two phillips screws on the main flat. Two bolts hold the column up.
2.) Remove cluster trim ring - Two hex heads fastened upward in the cluster ring. Four metal push-lock pins on the lower bottom of the trim ring. Be careful! Undo the two upper hex heads and pull the bottom four push-locks out. The push locks may stay in the dash holes, if so just pop them out and screw them back onto the cluster ring.
3.) The cluster is held in by 4 hex head screws, 1 at each corner. Get them all out and stored somewhere. The cluster pulls straight out off of it's connector. Grab the outside and pull gently. If you got all 4 screws, it'll come out.
- This is the part that is a real pita
if you don't drop the column. I can tell you this, if you pull the tilt wheel lever and force the wheel down, then unscrew the tilt wheel lever, while still holding the wheel down, there is just enough room from the extra tilt give to allow fishing the cluster out tilting the bottom and pulling the lower left corner first, then right. It's nearly impossible unless you know just what to force and just how to get it out. That's why I recommend dropping the column if you are only doing this once.4.) Now you have to get the cluster out. Very easy if you dropped the column, it'll pop right out. If you didn't... see my note above and good luck to you.
Last edited by todddchi; 04-01-2006 at 12:43 AM.
03-31-2006, 11:58 PM
#2
Installing the overlays:
Now you have your cluster out. Get in a room where it is easy to turn the lights on and off from your working area. Wash your hands and your cluster (the back can get very dusty). Gather up your overlays, credit card, soapy water bottle (1 or 2 drops only, very little soap), and flashlight.
1.) Remove the cluster bulbs from the back. There are 8, go ahead and remove them for now. You may need pliers but be gentle. Most should be ok by hand. The housings twist seat just like tail-lamp bulb housings.
2.) Thoroughly clean the cluster so your hands don't get dirty handling it. Remove the lens by pressing down on the outside tabs and pulling it up. Clean it up best you can as well. Now clean up the front face of the gauge cluster. Once you have the lens off BE VERY CAREFUL not to damage the needles, or to allow any of the needles to rotate out of their sweeping area. (It's possible for the side gauges to rotate 360 deg, which you would not find out until you have everything back in the car and the calibration is all hosed - I cannot stress it enough to pay attention to this!).
3.) Follow the overlay directions to install them. You have to remove the tach lower stop pin by pulling it out. The soapy water is there so you can move the overlays around while they are on the face of the cluster. You'll need this because it is impossible to get them to seat right dry. Get them close, then shut the lights off and aim your flashlight through the bulb openings to check the alignment. This part is a royal pain, but it's critical. The overlay needs to be aligned as perfectly as possible or you'll get uneven or blocked lighting. Mine were not a perfect fit, and the final position was a bit of a compromise with both sides being just slightly off. My overlay was just a smidgen too wide. I expect this will vary depending upon your overlay source. Once in position work the bubbles out with the credit card or squeegee. Be very careful not to move the overlay, or you have to start again. Make sure to do one final check with the lights when you think you are done. The overlay may have moved. Once the water dries up and the overlay is stuck, you risk damaging it trying to start over.
4.) Once you have all of the overlays positioned, checked, and dry, clean up the entire front face to remove all traces of soap and water spots, and reinstall the tach stop pin, the odometer trip plug, and lens. Be careful not to pinch the speedo needle in between the lens frame and the cluster face. When installed the speedo needle rests on the lens frame, so it is easy to not notice and pinch it putting the lens back on.
5.)
Secret optional step - now is the time to block off that annoying "ASR OFF" light frame. Seems best to sandwich some electrical tape behind the stock overlay, but I didn't do this - didn't even think of it. I used a couple coats from a flat black paint pen. One coat allowed it to still shine through. Aiming a flashlight at the area, you'll be able to see the "ASR OFF" area and paint over it. You could also use trimmed electrical tape, or maybe pop a small camaro emblem sticker or something there. If you do this, you can simply pull the ASR fuse and now your car is ridded of the pesky ASR for good, with no indicator lamp staring at you all the time. It's this or a $70 SLP box. I know which one I prefer... 
The paint square looks very obvious in the picture, but this is because of the flash. It is barely noticeable.
Now you have your cluster out. Get in a room where it is easy to turn the lights on and off from your working area. Wash your hands and your cluster (the back can get very dusty). Gather up your overlays, credit card, soapy water bottle (1 or 2 drops only, very little soap), and flashlight.
1.) Remove the cluster bulbs from the back. There are 8, go ahead and remove them for now. You may need pliers but be gentle. Most should be ok by hand. The housings twist seat just like tail-lamp bulb housings.
2.) Thoroughly clean the cluster so your hands don't get dirty handling it. Remove the lens by pressing down on the outside tabs and pulling it up. Clean it up best you can as well. Now clean up the front face of the gauge cluster. Once you have the lens off BE VERY CAREFUL not to damage the needles, or to allow any of the needles to rotate out of their sweeping area. (It's possible for the side gauges to rotate 360 deg, which you would not find out until you have everything back in the car and the calibration is all hosed - I cannot stress it enough to pay attention to this!).
3.) Follow the overlay directions to install them. You have to remove the tach lower stop pin by pulling it out. The soapy water is there so you can move the overlays around while they are on the face of the cluster. You'll need this because it is impossible to get them to seat right dry. Get them close, then shut the lights off and aim your flashlight through the bulb openings to check the alignment. This part is a royal pain, but it's critical. The overlay needs to be aligned as perfectly as possible or you'll get uneven or blocked lighting. Mine were not a perfect fit, and the final position was a bit of a compromise with both sides being just slightly off. My overlay was just a smidgen too wide. I expect this will vary depending upon your overlay source. Once in position work the bubbles out with the credit card or squeegee. Be very careful not to move the overlay, or you have to start again. Make sure to do one final check with the lights when you think you are done. The overlay may have moved. Once the water dries up and the overlay is stuck, you risk damaging it trying to start over.
4.) Once you have all of the overlays positioned, checked, and dry, clean up the entire front face to remove all traces of soap and water spots, and reinstall the tach stop pin, the odometer trip plug, and lens. Be careful not to pinch the speedo needle in between the lens frame and the cluster face. When installed the speedo needle rests on the lens frame, so it is easy to not notice and pinch it putting the lens back on.
5.)
Secret optional step - now is the time to block off that annoying "ASR OFF" light frame. Seems best to sandwich some electrical tape behind the stock overlay, but I didn't do this - didn't even think of it. I used a couple coats from a flat black paint pen. One coat allowed it to still shine through. Aiming a flashlight at the area, you'll be able to see the "ASR OFF" area and paint over it. You could also use trimmed electrical tape, or maybe pop a small camaro emblem sticker or something there. If you do this, you can simply pull the ASR fuse and now your car is ridded of the pesky ASR for good, with no indicator lamp staring at you all the time. It's this or a $70 SLP box. I know which one I prefer... The paint square looks very obvious in the picture, but this is because of the flash. It is barely noticeable. Last edited by todddchi; 04-01-2006 at 01:02 AM.
03-31-2006, 11:58 PM
#3
Installing the leds:
1.) Gather up your led instructions and take note of which five bulbs get retrofitted with the leds. Plug in your hot glue gun.
2.) Pick up three of the existing bulbs, and clean the contacts with an eraser. Make sure the contact pads are still bent up to make good contact with the cluster. Install these three bulbs.
3.) Pick up the other 5 bulbs, and pull the glass bulbs out from the housings. Install the leds as instructed, and seat them with hot glue. I ran a small drop through the slit on both sides of the housing. Take care to keep glue off the cluster contact pads, but use enough to hold the led securely. Let the glue cool and then remove any excess.
4.) Reinstall the 5 bulbs noting that the capacitor (black heat shrinkd side of the led) side of the led must be up when installed in the cluster. If it's backwards the led won't work.
5.) Pop your cluster back into the car, and check that everything is working. Seat it fully, then turn the car on to accessory. The needles should sweep and set, and all lights should work.
Do a check sweep!
- Are all of the areas lit? Did you miss any bulbs, plug them in wrong, or have any that didn't seat right? Only the 1k area of the tach should be dim, this is unavoidable.
- Did you put your trip odometer plug and tach needle support plug back in place?
- Did you paint over the ASR OFF light?
- Are there any gauge needles stuck or pinched by the cluster bezel?
It may be a good idea to go for a short drive to make sure the speedo works before putting everything back together. Everything else can be checked at idle.
Everythings ok? Great, now just bolt up the cluster, column, and reassemble all your trim and panels.
In the end, I'm very happy with the combination. I'm sure the more expensive overlays could look better, but this shows what kind of results you can expect going low-rent, and taking the time to do it right.
I'd plan on having at least 2-3 hours to work with. Could be a lot more if you have a struggle getting the overlays to line up. That part is pretty hard to do.
1.) Gather up your led instructions and take note of which five bulbs get retrofitted with the leds. Plug in your hot glue gun.
2.) Pick up three of the existing bulbs, and clean the contacts with an eraser. Make sure the contact pads are still bent up to make good contact with the cluster. Install these three bulbs.
3.) Pick up the other 5 bulbs, and pull the glass bulbs out from the housings. Install the leds as instructed, and seat them with hot glue. I ran a small drop through the slit on both sides of the housing. Take care to keep glue off the cluster contact pads, but use enough to hold the led securely. Let the glue cool and then remove any excess.
4.) Reinstall the 5 bulbs noting that the capacitor (black heat shrinkd side of the led) side of the led must be up when installed in the cluster. If it's backwards the led won't work.
5.) Pop your cluster back into the car, and check that everything is working. Seat it fully, then turn the car on to accessory. The needles should sweep and set, and all lights should work.
Do a check sweep!
- Are all of the areas lit? Did you miss any bulbs, plug them in wrong, or have any that didn't seat right? Only the 1k area of the tach should be dim, this is unavoidable.
- Did you put your trip odometer plug and tach needle support plug back in place?
- Did you paint over the ASR OFF light?
- Are there any gauge needles stuck or pinched by the cluster bezel?
It may be a good idea to go for a short drive to make sure the speedo works before putting everything back together. Everything else can be checked at idle.
Everythings ok? Great, now just bolt up the cluster, column, and reassemble all your trim and panels.
In the end, I'm very happy with the combination. I'm sure the more expensive overlays could look better, but this shows what kind of results you can expect going low-rent, and taking the time to do it right.
I'd plan on having at least 2-3 hours to work with. Could be a lot more if you have a struggle getting the overlays to line up. That part is pretty hard to do.
Last edited by todddchi; 04-01-2006 at 12:49 AM.
04-01-2006, 12:59 AM
#5
Originally Posted by todddchi
5.) Secret optional step - now is the time to block off that annoying "ASR OFF" light frame. I used a couple coats from a flat black paint pen. One coat allowed it to still shine through. Aiming a flashlight at the area, you'll be able to see the "ASR OFF" area and paint over it. You could also use trimmed electrical tape, or maybe pop a small camaro emblem sticker or something there. If you do this, you can simply pull the ASR fuse and now your car is ridded of the pesky ASR for good, with no indicator lamp staring at you all the time. It's this or a $70 SLP box. I know which one I prefer... The paint square looks very obvious in the picture, but this is because of the flash. It is barely noticeable.
Secret optional step - now is the time to block off that annoying "ASR OFF" light frame. I used a couple coats from a flat black paint pen. One coat allowed it to still shine through. Aiming a flashlight at the area, you'll be able to see the "ASR OFF" area and paint over it. You could also use trimmed electrical tape, or maybe pop a small camaro emblem sticker or something there. If you do this, you can simply pull the ASR fuse and now your car is ridded of the pesky ASR for good, with no indicator lamp staring at you all the time. It's this or a $70 SLP box. I know which one I prefer... The paint square looks very obvious in the picture, but this is because of the flash. It is barely noticeable.It will look a lot better and be reversible. I did this to get rid of the SES light before I got O2 simms...
Install looks GREAT! Nice writeup
!
04-01-2006, 01:05 AM
#6
Also, maybe pick up a Trans-Am bezel (MacEwen motorsports has them even though the owner is an @ss, he sold me non-hyperwhite bulbs that I sent back CERTIFIED and he won't answer my e-mails let alone return my money).
Here's mine:
As you can see above it outlines the gauges and also covers up the dumb little gas, battery, etc... pictures.
Here's mine:
As you can see above it outlines the gauges and also covers up the dumb little gas, battery, etc... pictures.
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04-01-2006, 09:56 AM
#9
Demonbird, what year/model is your car? I'm trying to figure out why you have a speedo stop needle at 155.
Also, does anyone know the GM part number for that bezel? They are $40+ship through Mac. I can't imagine that is less than the OEM price...
Also, does anyone know the GM part number for that bezel? They are $40+ship through Mac. I can't imagine that is less than the OEM price...
04-01-2006, 03:06 PM
#11
Originally Posted by todddchi
Demonbird, what year/model is your car? I'm trying to figure out why you have a speedo stop needle at 155.
Also, does anyone know the GM part number for that bezel? They are $40+ship through Mac. I can't imagine that is less than the OEM price...
Also, does anyone know the GM part number for that bezel? They are $40+ship through Mac. I can't imagine that is less than the OEM price...
04-01-2006, 04:10 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Z28Camaro01
Whered you get your gauges. The Old school emblem is really sweet in em
The emblem is a decal I had made by Brent Franker:
www.bfranker.badz28.com/vinyl/vinyl.htm
Last edited by LawmanSS; 04-03-2006 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Non-sponsor link removed.
04-01-2006, 10:41 PM
#15
I think Demon's lighting looks alot better. If you're just going for the blue tint his approach is way better, you keep the stock light uniformity, and save money and hassle.
I wanted white, thus the overlays. I'd like to see someone with the Mac overlays in person to see how good thier light uniformity is. The images on ledgauges look about the same as mine...
I wanted white, thus the overlays. I'd like to see someone with the Mac overlays in person to see how good thier light uniformity is. The images on ledgauges look about the same as mine...
04-01-2006, 11:39 PM
#16
Originally Posted by todddchi
I think Demon's lighting looks alot better. If you're just going for the blue tint his approach is way better, you keep the stock light uniformity, and save money and hassle.
I wanted white, thus the overlays. I'd like to see someone with the Mac overlays in person to see how good thier light uniformity is. The images on ledgauges look about the same as mine...
I wanted white, thus the overlays. I'd like to see someone with the Mac overlays in person to see how good thier light uniformity is. The images on ledgauges look about the same as mine...
I think a stock cluster with Hyper White bulbs would look good on it's own. It would give the similar blue tint that you have (I know from holding a flashlight up to the stock cluster).
Yours looks great though! Any luck on the bezel?
04-11-2006, 12:48 AM
#18
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I know Im missing it but what exactly is holding the steering column in place? If I drop it to remove the gauge cluster to put some white faced gauges in, what are the chances of me messing something up when trying to put it back into place after the install? Thanks.
Last edited by huskerpower02; 04-11-2006 at 01:06 AM.
04-27-2006, 01:28 AM
#19
There are just two bolts holding the column up, if you loosen them just a bit you'll get the few mm you need to get the cluster out somewhat easily.
I guess it kind of depends on how good your dexterity working with this sort of thing is. I'm pretty used to pulling things apart and can get the cluster in and out w/o dropping the column. But I'm sure doing so is much easier for most people.
I still haven't had anybody chime in with that bezel part number. Anyone got a Firebird parts manual?
I guess it kind of depends on how good your dexterity working with this sort of thing is. I'm pretty used to pulling things apart and can get the cluster in and out w/o dropping the column. But I'm sure doing so is much easier for most people.
I still haven't had anybody chime in with that bezel part number. Anyone got a Firebird parts manual?