250 to much on stock internals?
#2
A friend of mine is doing a 200wet shot on an all stock bottom end. He has been doing that shot for over a year now. I have heard that anything over 150 and you're engine is living on borrowed time. If you do just make sure you use wet kit.
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With a progressive or multi stage set up, I'm betting the stock short block would hold up with a 250 shot (crank rated). I wouldn't be spinning it to like 7K or running on pump gas though. No reason you couldn't do it with a dry kit.
#5
Originally Posted by GM Muscle
With a progressive or multi stage set up, I'm betting the stock short block would hold up with a 250 shot (crank rated). I wouldn't be spinning it to like 7K or running on pump gas though. No reason you couldn't do it with a dry kit.
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Originally Posted by UL LOSE
Hows pump gas gonna hurt it? Just curious
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Originally Posted by UL LOSE
Hows pump gas gonna hurt it? Just curious
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Yep, it can be done on pump gas but it doesn't leave much room for error at all. Really doesn't take a whole lot of detonation to hurt the stock bottom end. Spraying that much, it would probrably be best to do a standalone with 116-117 in it.
Why not 100 unleaded?
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With a 150 shot you should not need to run race gas, I never have with a 150 (even with stock timing). You should be fine on pump for a 150. I meant when spraying big shots like a 250 on the stock bottom end.
VSGLS1: everything above 104 is pretty much leaded. With 117 leaded in a standalone I imagine you could still get some pretty good milage out of the O2 sensors since your not using it very often. And from what I'm told, there are lead tollerant O2s on the market. If you went 100 unleaded in the standalone the overal octane rating would obviously not be as high as with say the 93/117, might be enough depending on teh set up though. With my 225 shot I've been running a 50/50 93/104 (unleaded) mix in the tank. It's a pain in the *** to having to deal with the mix in the factory tank and it's getting expensive to drive back and forth to the track paying $2.70 for 93 and $7.00 for 104 (usually need 10 gallons total to go play for the night). I'd rather just put 93 in the tank and a gallon of 117 NOS in the standalone, will save me over $15 in gas per trip and I should be able to put alittle more timing back in the car. The standalone will also cure the fueling problems that I'm having.
VSGLS1: everything above 104 is pretty much leaded. With 117 leaded in a standalone I imagine you could still get some pretty good milage out of the O2 sensors since your not using it very often. And from what I'm told, there are lead tollerant O2s on the market. If you went 100 unleaded in the standalone the overal octane rating would obviously not be as high as with say the 93/117, might be enough depending on teh set up though. With my 225 shot I've been running a 50/50 93/104 (unleaded) mix in the tank. It's a pain in the *** to having to deal with the mix in the factory tank and it's getting expensive to drive back and forth to the track paying $2.70 for 93 and $7.00 for 104 (usually need 10 gallons total to go play for the night). I'd rather just put 93 in the tank and a gallon of 117 NOS in the standalone, will save me over $15 in gas per trip and I should be able to put alittle more timing back in the car. The standalone will also cure the fueling problems that I'm having.
Last edited by GM Muscle; 04-03-2006 at 03:53 PM.
#14
So say a 200 wet shot what type of fuel should I be running? I will be running a 200 wet shot on my stock bottom end, with a walbro 240 intank and walbro 240 inline, but I am also using a Progressive controller. Would I be able to run a Low Lead 100 octane? I aske because there is a small airport about 15min from my house that has this.
Dan
Dan
#15
i have a stock short block, heads and cam, running a 240 wet shot. single stage. im going to put a progressive on it i think or two stage it. i run a wide band and tune my self. cars making roughly 625 at the wheels
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i just ran my 200 shot back to back five times without any problems i do have all the supporting mods like the harris speed works stand alone and their progressive controller my stock motor has been loving it for a while now
#19
I ran a 200whp shot for a long time on top of a 400+whp cam only set up on pump gas to 7000+rpm and it had seen up to a 275 shot. It finally came apart, but not nitrous related.... rpm took the rods apart.
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Depending on availability (not all stated have it) you could just skip the race gas stand alone nonsense and pick up some pump gas friendly E85 (115 octane rating) before hitting the track. Cheaper than 93 octane/RACE FUEL, and O2 friendly. All you need is correct tuning for fuel pressure as it takes more fuel with E85 to net the same results as other fuels. Do some research! Much easier than you think...I am just waiting for San Antonio, TX to get some in my area of town. Race tracks should start carrying this stuff as the cost will be substantially lower for racers. That means more passes, safer passes, and higher compression ratios can be run with more power...win...win...situation for racers. Probably not so good for DD folks...unless you are an environementalist!