Sanity check on RMVB shift action???
04-09-2006, 01:30 AM
#1
Restricted User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 7,603
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sanity check on RMVB shift action??? Ok, I put a Rossler Terminator II TH350, RMVB Trans with ATI 4,000 stall TC. I have taken note of the things since driving it:
1st gear seems to have some sort of over run protection on it. I can go say 15mph, let off the throttle, and then if I ease the throttle back in its almost like being in neutral until it reaches the amount needed to exceed coasting speed.
Next, I shift into second and its right now, yet still smooth. I contribute this to being under a load basically. However, if I am just putting about and shift into 3rd without being under the pedal, it makes a hella thunk, like the U joints are shot or the rearend isnt bolted in too well (FWIW, I have had new U Joints and put in a 9" rearend and still same thing). Under throttle/heavy load and racing 3rd just snaps right into gear like any other car would, maybe slightly quicker.
Along that, is downshifting...if I coast to slow roll and shift from 3rd to 2nd (or even pass it and go to 1st) the rear makes another thunking noise like its about to fall out. If I stop, and shift from 3rd to 2nd and into 1st, its fine, nothing unusual. I think thats just the way it is based off load required vs lack of smooth automatic engaging clutch packs etc..
Charlie
1st gear seems to have some sort of over run protection on it. I can go say 15mph, let off the throttle, and then if I ease the throttle back in its almost like being in neutral until it reaches the amount needed to exceed coasting speed.
Next, I shift into second and its right now, yet still smooth. I contribute this to being under a load basically. However, if I am just putting about and shift into 3rd without being under the pedal, it makes a hella thunk, like the U joints are shot or the rearend isnt bolted in too well (FWIW, I have had new U Joints and put in a 9" rearend and still same thing). Under throttle/heavy load and racing 3rd just snaps right into gear like any other car would, maybe slightly quicker.
Along that, is downshifting...if I coast to slow roll and shift from 3rd to 2nd (or even pass it and go to 1st) the rear makes another thunking noise like its about to fall out. If I stop, and shift from 3rd to 2nd and into 1st, its fine, nothing unusual. I think thats just the way it is based off load required vs lack of smooth automatic engaging clutch packs etc..
Charlie
04-11-2006, 01:19 AM
#3
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: OMG I'm in Kansas
Posts: 819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I.ll get back with you as soon as I get my car running this week.
I have a Rossler TH400 with a JW ultrabell and RMVB and a rosslock transbrake.
The converter is a Coan 4000 stall with anti ballooning plates.
Finally got the right conversion crossmember from BMR today so I should have it running by the weekend.
I have a Rossler TH400 with a JW ultrabell and RMVB and a rosslock transbrake.
The converter is a Coan 4000 stall with anti ballooning plates.
Finally got the right conversion crossmember from BMR today so I should have it running by the weekend.
04-11-2006, 06:41 AM
#4
Restricted User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"1st gear seems to have some sort of over run protection on it. I can go say 15mph, let off the throttle, and then if I ease the throttle back in its almost like being in neutral until it reaches the amount needed to exceed coasting speed".
"Do not" do this as the L/R sprag is not holding, and this can break the L/R sprag, from bringing up the rpm to match it, especially if it is done quickly. The clunking is from the 2-3 shift coming at "full line pressure", at light throttle openings. With this type of valve body, I would come to a halt, then back shift it. I do not favor this type of setup, but this is what you have chosen, so be careful, and it will last.
"Do not" do this as the L/R sprag is not holding, and this can break the L/R sprag, from bringing up the rpm to match it, especially if it is done quickly. The clunking is from the 2-3 shift coming at "full line pressure", at light throttle openings. With this type of valve body, I would come to a halt, then back shift it. I do not favor this type of setup, but this is what you have chosen, so be careful, and it will last.
