staringback05

iTrader: (8)

ive had my TA for about a year now as u can see in my sig. ive put a few things on it, before i had this car i had a s10 and was used to that good ole 4.3l, im pretty good with cars, but im lost on the ratios and info of cams and heads. thats about as far as i want to go with upgrades. i can pretty much do everything else...ie bolt ons. so heres some ?s,

whats a 90/90 set up? whats a good cost for a shop to put in a cam and head setup? whats a good streetable daily driving cam and head setup? what would be a good buy for the money? what kinda of cam would go good with a zo6 set of heads? are the upgraded heads and cams as reliable as the stock ones or are they just for power and torque? ive still got a warranty on this car so i prolly wont be able to do anything for another year along with i need to save money but i need info thanks? also is the 160 thermostat worth it? where can u get a different drive shaft besides steel or aluminum? i think thats about it lol u someone should have fun with all that

Hoss Ghoul

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, but your questions are massivley broad and way way way open to interpretation.

If you want info, do a search, do 10 searches. That's the only way to really learn. You can find dozens of guys setups that way, form mild to wild.

To answer one of your questions, no Heads and Cam are not as reliable as stock, that question alone send you to the SEARCH function, you need to understand how engines work.

Trying not to sound like an ***, but this question is so broad, it's virtually worthless.

Hoss Ghoul

iTrader: (2)

90/90 refers to a FAST 90mm intake manifold and throttle body.

What would be a good buy for the money??? LOL, how much money do you have?

Thermostat: with a tune you can bypass much of the need for a 160. I would go 180 with lower fan speeds.

That year with the warranty willl provide you with the perfect amount of time to decide what you want to do with your car....I've spent 6months so far figuring out the same...

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

hmm i know about the 90mm tb and the 90mm manifold, guess i cant rely on some info bc i actually saw the 90/90 thing in a conversaion about heads and cams thats why it kinda caught me off, i actually asked some of these ?s in the ls1 ls6 engine forum and didnt really get a response. well maybe i can break it down a bit, i know about the trexs, darts, afrs, ls6, gsx? maybe, and the ms3? which of these would be pretty good for my application? and which cam would match one of those? crane,comp, etc etc...i understand how an engine works, i worked on my truck alot but i dont know enough about an ls1 to start throwing thousands of dollars around, also ive got time to work on my car but not the time to be breaking down an engine and fixing timeing all the time or valves or rods or whatever. i just want something thats a lil better then stock, im not lookin for a 600hp engine overall....honestly my goal is around 400hp which is completely acheiveable with all the bolt ons and the true duals and headers i have coming along with the heads and cams

300bhp/ton

FAST 90/90 is great on a fully blown n/a setup but it's preicey. Check out TPIS they offer a 90mm LS6 intake and 90mm TB, it's not far behind a FAST in the HP department and is cheaper.

Bolt on's + cam only, is a pretty good way to go an you should still see near or at 400rwhp depending on cam. Heads are a good choice if you plan on a serious n/a build else the price starts creeping up and up.

Check out TSP ---> they do some really good deals on cams and install kits.

LT headers would be worth while also.

Are you A4 or M6, if auto then a torque converter would be a great addition, speak to Fuddle or Yank.

Rear end can break, most often with M6 cars. People tend to go for a 12 bolt or Ford 9" as a replacement.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

yea lastnight i went back and looked at some cam kits, i like some of the crane ones that came with valve springs, and rods, along with the cam...its idle was good witha small chop and says its good for stock to mildly moded engines, it was about 470$....the 90/90 setup is nice but honestly ive ported my TB and i want a ls6 manifold, with that cam i hope to get a nice output from that manifold, the 90/90 setup can get kinda pricey...as for the tranny i got a a4 but ive got a in for that, my good friends brother owns alot of tranny shots in the atlanta area so i can send mine off for that, he can build mine out from the shell, to valves, tc,gaskets everything for about 200bucks i wanted a new driveshaft cause that could make it alil easier on the baby tranny, and if i do get that new a4 ill have to go with the 12 bolt, knowing all this im gettin my duals soon, and i might wait to put them on until i get the head and cam kit, just so i wont have to do multiple tunes, but like i said with all that i should easliy make 400 with good torque, i just didnt know about prices and h/c setups which im still kinda off?

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Well if you want heads and cam, go for the Thunder racing Cheatr cam and head package, it makes good power (tho designed for stock manifolds it still works well with headers), and has a docile idle.
Search in the internal engine section for "cheatr" several people have it and make 400hp or above (with the supporting mods of course)
Of course the cheatr is just one, there are other cams, that may work better for you, depends on what you want out of the car. Do you want a stock like idle, or do you want it to lope (mild lope or crazy), what will the car be used for, weekend warrior, or daily driver.
A cam alone can cost up to $1k, by the time you add all the other stuff that you need to change, should change, ought to change (I'm talking springs, seals, timing chain, oil pump, coolant, tune, etc), as for the install cost, I've read everything from $400, all the way up to $1200

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

see i was looking for this kind of information, and i had posted in other forumns and didnt get anything. thanks sounds good, its gonna be honestly want to drive it as little as possible, like a couple of days a week 3 or 4, stock to mild lope would be good, so what kind grind would make a certain lope? and what kinda of rpm range would i be looking at? thanks for the info though

Hoss Ghoul

iTrader: (2)

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=3&pcid=51

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

The spec to look for when you want lope, is called lobe seperation angle (LSA) the tighter the LSA (lower number) the more the cam will lope example the stock cam has an LSA of 117, a cam with an LSA of 106 will lope like a SOB, but a 114 cam will have less lope, but more than the stock cam, there's more to it, but that's the basics, as for what RPM range, that'll be taken care of by the duration, and lift.
You need to think about what you want, do you want a high rpm screamer that's a dog below 3k, or do you want more midrange and top end, or do you want tire frying power from idle.
Based on a pure guess sounds like a TR 224 would be a good cam to consider for what you want, or maybe even go the next step higher and get a 230.
Basically it's up to you what you want, and what you're willing to put up with in terms of drivability (or lack of)