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Clear coat on ceta mod?

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Old 04-14-2006, 01:39 PM
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Default Clear coat on ceta mod?

I know I know this has been talked about a million times but nobody really ever said if you should you clear coat or not at least not that I found.
I am using rust-oleum flat black for bumpers and the same brand sandable primer will this be a good paint to use? Do I need to clear coat it at all? Thanks in advance for the help.
Old 04-14-2006, 02:14 PM
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Clearcoat will make it shiny!!
Old 04-14-2006, 02:18 PM
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If I don't use clear coat will it still look ok and still be strong against the elements? Could I clear coat a few days after I painted it?
Old 04-14-2006, 02:31 PM
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Rustoleum should be just fine against the elements. Doesn't matter how long you wait to clearcoat it will still make it gloss.
Old 04-14-2006, 03:33 PM
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Thanks for the info. I just gotta get around to doing it now.
Old 04-14-2006, 04:08 PM
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Anybody have pics of ceta mod done with flat black and no clear coat?
Old 04-14-2006, 05:23 PM
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I would go with clear coat no matter what, for protection reasons. You can either go with the high gloss clear or you can have it toned down to be not so shiny,- satin look. Check with your local auto body supply shop, they can mix you what you want. They can even put it in a spray can for you.
Old 04-14-2006, 05:31 PM
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No clear coated needed. MAYBE 1% of people clear coat.

I did the CETA mod to my 1999 Trans-Am and the Berger mod to my 1998 Z28. Both using Low Gloss Black from a Dupli-Color (they have the best cans for spraying, great nozzles) can.

Both were outside cars with NO PROBLEMS what so ever .
Old 04-14-2006, 05:38 PM
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You mean a rattle can?
Old 04-14-2006, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Pewterpowre
You mean a rattle can?
Yup .
Old 04-14-2006, 10:49 PM
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I got rust-oleum just because thats all the store had and it says its for bumpers and stuff so i will try it.
Old 04-14-2006, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 02trns_am
I got rust-oleum just because thats all the store had and it says its for bumpers and stuff so i will try it.
I'm sure that will work fine. Just don't clear it. Not only do you not need to put sometimes when the clear coat tries to stick stuff like paint from a can might get peeled up by it.

It's usually only due to bad prep but I've seen it happed with great prep as well.

Just shoot it with what you have and you'll love it!
Old 04-14-2006, 11:12 PM
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thanks for the help I will post up some pics sometime this weekend since i'll prolly get it done tomorrow
Old 04-14-2006, 11:18 PM
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mines flat black! the only thing bad about it is it dries up after washing the car and looks bad so i just put some armoral on there and then it looks great till the next wash! I decided not to do a clear coat cause i think it looks cheap..
Old 04-14-2006, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Shinerbock07
mines flat black! the only thing bad about it is it dries up after washing the car and looks bad so i just put some armoral on there and then it looks great till the next wash! I decided not to do a clear coat cause i think it looks cheap..
That's why I ended up re-painting mine low-gloss...
Old 04-15-2006, 12:09 AM
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pics are in sig 2nd page on my car domain
Old 04-15-2006, 10:29 AM
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demonbird does the low gloss look good and stay looking good after you wash unlike the flat did?
Old 04-15-2006, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 02trns_am
demonbird does the low gloss look good and stay looking good after you wash unlike the flat did?
I think it does. Rumor has it the real ones were painted by "creating" a satin black. In other words they took real black base coat, mixed it with clear coat, and then sprayed it on.

This is also the process good painters use when painting the underside of a hood to match a non-clearcoated engine bay.

Anyways, essentially this would be a low-gloss black. DEFINETLY better than flat or satin and I don't have to armor all it (I did before).



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