e-cutout problem
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e-cutout problem
I picked up 2 electric coutouts and installed them right off the headers, then the y-pipe. I started the car and everything was fine, I opened the cutouts, then closed them. Only once! Now 1 of the cutouts (I think its only 1) will not fully close unless I hold the switch. What the hell happened. The cutouts are new from QTP. I have the flowtech cutouts, then the e-cutout, then another 3 bolt flange with a turndown. Is it possible that the plate is hung-up, or am I looking at taking this thing off the car again.
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I think it's about 5-6 seconds (me counting). thats not the problem though. I can hold the switch, the plates close, exhaust sounds normal thru the catback, once I let go of the switch, 1 or both of the plates crack open.
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And just so you don't screw them up like i believe I did to mine. Don't push and hold the switch. The motor will over heat and weaken...then over time the mechanism will break. Only move it to open all the way or close. The longer you are moving them with the switch the worse it will get over time. They are a great product, but get a bad rep sometimes because they are being used incorrectly.
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If the exhaust is blowing it open, what the hell do I do about that? I can't drive this car with a small leak right off the header! Was this a continuos problem for you orangepeel? Thanks for the reply guys. I appreciate it.
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so should I tap the switch or the motor?
is this something i have to deal with for the duration that i have these?
is it even worth having with no cats and the slp dual/dual
is this something i have to deal with for the duration that i have these?
is it even worth having with no cats and the slp dual/dual
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just checked under the car. it seems like the passenger side "gate" can move very little with my finger. I haven't gotten back under the car cause I'm all cleaned up now, but is there a possiblity that the cutout is already loosening up or comming aprt?
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Mine leaks too and I think they all do. What I do when it doesn't close properly, which is most of the time is to tap it open a fraction and then close it by tapping the switch the other way. Sometimes I have to do this cycle several times but eventually it gets close enough to being closed.
Electric cutouts haven't caught up with today's technology yet.
Electric cutouts haven't caught up with today's technology yet.
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Originally Posted by 01350ss
just checked under the car. it seems like the passenger side "gate" can move very little with my finger. I haven't gotten back under the car cause I'm all cleaned up now, but is there a possiblity that the cutout is already loosening up or comming aprt?
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Mine stays shut fine, do not know about the QTP
construction but you might need a limit switch moved
a little bit to get preload on the plate, or something
like that. On mine there are open and closed limit
switches that stop the travel (McCord Power Plate).
It needs to travel just -barely- into bind, butterly to
seat.
construction but you might need a limit switch moved
a little bit to get preload on the plate, or something
like that. On mine there are open and closed limit
switches that stop the travel (McCord Power Plate).
It needs to travel just -barely- into bind, butterly to
seat.
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Looking at your sig I can see you don't cut corners. Yours is the first post I've encountered about closing e-cutouts in the positive. Limit switches are what mine and most others lack. Apparently the McCord power plate is the next step.
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Well, without a limit switch there should be nothing to
prevent it traveling all the way to bind; should be a
good thing (other than, you could keep putting power
to a locked rotor indefinitely).
prevent it traveling all the way to bind; should be a
good thing (other than, you could keep putting power
to a locked rotor indefinitely).