Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

These are nearly the finsihed ports. I will probably carry them to work now and sandblast the intake ports to even them up and make them uniform while leaving a nice satin finish. That should help keep the fuel vaporized. I have not really started on the combustion chambers. After I get them sandblasted I will hand smooth them from there.

By the way, Im probably gonna have some 2.02 intake valves installed and keep my stock exhaust valves.

Enjoy!

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Looks good man. Get you a good set of 2.02/1.60 valves and a good valve job. The stock valve job is weak. Its hard to see all the detail in your intake port, but it looks ok. Dont be scared to go wider on your exhaust. The outer part of your opening needs to end up at about 1.58" for an 1 3/4 header. Take that width in past your guide into the bowl, then blend into your new seat throat width. Be sure and dont have some numbskull do your valve job. They need to also cut your throats down into the bowl.

Brandon

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

Im not fooling with the exhaust ports anymore. I am gonna sandblast the intake and maybe hand blend the guide a little more depending on what it looks like after sandblasting.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Those look good to me.

Xfactor - I recall my exhaust ports being pretty close to 1.580 as cast. Just cleaning them up was enough to get them to 1.580, but I left it there as suggested. Should I have gone wider?

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

You can go as wide as 1.60, but they have to be perfectly centered to not encroach on the header walls. More important that the opening, is the width up to and just past the guide. That is where it tapers down to around 1.35". The castings will all differ slightly, I have seen them end up at 1.55-1.57 as cast. Most of your flow comes from blending a good valve job in the bowl and getting that extra width by the guide.

Brandon