freakynipples69

iTrader: (3)

In my LS1 book, it suggests drilling 1/2inch holes in the lifter trays to prevent the oil from foaming up at high revs. Anyone concur with this or is this a big no no?

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i've heard for a street car it's not necessary but that is just what i've heard.maybe some of the einsteins will chime in,i'm interested in knowing if it's a good idea also.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Getting ready to put new lifters and trays in when doing the head swap this weekend..where do you drill them and what size??

kungfuteabag

iTrader: (2)

I saw this done on Horse Power TV. They said it allows the oil to drain back faster. I also heard people on the site say its not needed in a street car. I don't remember the exact reason why though.

Zick

iTrader: (18)

Straight out of "How to build High-Performace Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8's"

SS1875

iTrader: (34)

I know of several well known engine builders who are and have been doing this for awhile now....seems to be a good modification in bigger cubed, turbo, blower applications, and higher RPM cars. Allows the oil to drain back more quickly and not allow a pooling effect which causes foaming and excessive heat .....meaning less HP. I look at it this way, it's an easy thing to do for saving HP!!

2scoot

iTrader: (2)

I have done this in my motor. When you do this ensure:
1. That you drill the holes on the correct side so that the oil does drain back toward the outside of the motor.
2. Drill a pilot hole of approx. 1/4 inch first!
3. Ensure that the bottom of the 1/2 hole is flush with the inside of the lifter tray. This will take some measuring!
4. Be very, very careful when you are drilling becaaause these trays are very brittle and will crack easily!!!!!!! I cant stress that enough.
5. Ensure you have good oil volume before you do this. *** I did not say pressure***
One last note, changing lifters from a non-encapssulated type to an encapsulated type (Melling, Comp, etc.) will yeild better oil pressure and quiet the entire valve train.

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

I did it... just practice on your old ones first

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

You bought new lifter trays on a head swap?

Is there a certain orientation the lifter tray should be in? They looked perfectly symetrical.

2scoot

iTrader: (2)

You are correct.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Its to help with high rpm oil draining and dreturn, not so much foaming. On a street motor, Id prefer to have extra rigidity of an uncompromised tray. The ls1 trays are symetrical while the ls2 trays have indentations where theres a rip in the block casting.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Any one have a photo of the lifter tray with the holes drilled for those of us who are imagination impared..

Zick

iTrader: (18)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=14

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Thanks a million..that old say that a picture is worth a tousand words is very true. I see how to do it now.

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

It was actually a whole motor swap... and for some reason, I decided to put them in the parts washer and they got real brittle.

radkon

iTrader: (2)

I saw that show too. But I also saw them rebuilding the motor a few months later after they spun a bearing. Probably not related but just thought I'd throw some fuel on the fire!

2blue

HorsePower TV shows are often re-run several times, so you might have seen the two shows out of chronological order.

Quik

iTrader: (7)

i did it to mine. did 3 good but broke my 4th so just got another one. i have good PSI and my motor seems to be quieter believe it or not at idle.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I agree with the above, this can weaken a brittle piece of critical coponent, I left mine alone. Some things are not worth the risk in my opinion.

radkon

iTrader: (2)

Nope they made it a point to show the 1st build up then the young dude pounded on it until he broke it. They rebuilt it and slapped a procharger on it.