Big Budda

I stripped the first few threads in the crank . After taping it out it seems to be alright.

My question is should I be worried about stripping them even more when I install the pulley?

If so is there any other way to install the pully on the crank.

Any ideas?

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

a piece of threaded rod, a washer, and a nut. Also, many people will bake the pully before they put it on, so that it expands and goes on easier

Big Budda

thanks

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Make sure you run the old bolt all the way in and out a few times to make sure it's not going to get ugly.

I would put the pulley in the oven for a while before you try to install it with the threaded rod/washers/nut as mentioned above.

After you get it fully seated, remove the nut/rod and install the new bolt. You might want to be a little less crazy on the new bolt considering the lack of threads.

MavrikTA

iTrader: (27)

I agree. And dont be concerned about the threads in regards to retaining the pulley. The pully will actually stay on without the bolt, though I certainly would not recommend trying it!! Scary, huh!? The hub is tight enough that it aint goin anywhere. Just a little input in case you were concerned!

dregnier0

BAke it and get a longer bolt.
2x4 and a hammer also helps to pound it onto the snout.

Big Budda

thanks guys worked like a charm

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

1 inch longer bolt to start to thread is the best defence against that

Iron Sights

Or a wooden board and a rubber mallet! I noticed some rubberish material on my SLP pulley and chose not to bake it; was this really an issue or was I being paranoid?

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Well it's designed to take AT LEAST 300* (think of how hot the car gets), plus there's probably a saftey factor.

The reason it's so hard to get on while cool has alot to do with how tight they want it to be when it heats up. Being supertight while cold preloads it so it'll stay tighter at operating temperature.