Kobwo

My QTP, O-road Pipe and electric cutout are on the way. I've installed SLP's and they were a major PITA! I've done a search and havent really found the ins/outs of installing these headers. They also don't come with instructions. What process did you use to get them in as easily as possible? Also the install kit doesn't have fire sleeve for the wires from the PCM to the starter/oil&crank sensor. Do I need to get some? The slps actually touch these wires and without the sleeve the would burn. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 1 last ?, if i loosen/take out the steering knuckle do I neeed to pull a fuse to make sure I don't set off the airbags?

Sorry for all of the questions and thanks for your time.

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

TTT
I'm in the same exact boat, come on guys, chime in please.

Narcosynthesis

I installed QTP headers last weekend. This is what I did.

Dissconnect the battery first.

1. Took out coil pack #6 on the passanger side (second from the front of the engine)

2. Took out all plugs and wires.

3. Unbolted EGR and Air connections

4. Next I unbolted the Y pipe and took out the O2 Sensors.

5. I then unbolted the stock manifolds. Driver side is very easy. Passanger side is a pain cause of the AC compressor. Just keep going at it.

6. Install Driver side header. I didnot have to remove the oil filter, or unbolt the steering shaft. I took out the oil heat shield plate thing though. Bolt up (locking header bolts) the header w/ gasket. (Use a new one you cheap skate you just spent 1300 bucks on headers <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> ) and move on to the passanger side.

7. After alot of fussing with the passanger side EGR tube (trying to bolt it back in is insane and will test your patience) I got it bolted up. Reinstall locking header bolts.

8. Install 02 sensors, o2 sims for the back, install sparkplugs, wires and air egr connections. Check that everything is connected and lined up right. Install battery cable and listen to the roar. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Y Pipe:

The QTP y lines up great and fits perfect. I had to shave the bolts/dimple the pipe connector that connect the passanger side header to the passanger side y pipe. You will see what I mean.

Cut an inch off of your catback I pipe. I had to cut more. Then I went to an exhaust shop to get the cat back lined up. I could have done it but i was tired.

I have some banging but I got some heater hose and I just need to adjust it a bit. Clearance is perfect but my loudmouth resonator scrapes on speedbumps but thats no biggiee. There is no clearance problems with turning the wheel lock to lock or with the oil pan bolt or filter.

One thing that helped me was taking brown lunch bags and putting the various bolts etc in them. Lable the bag and set it aside. That way you know you didnt lose a screw and dont have a big box of various bolts.

Enjoy. After about a week your hands will begin to heal.

Kobwo

Both from the bottom? Barry said the pass side from the top.

Narcosynthesis

i did both from the bottom.

Kobwo

Thanks, I appreciate it.

NX†C

we knocked mine out in 3 hours after taking off the stepped dynatechs. took a lot longer to saws-all the y-pipe off since it was welded to the high flow collectors.

in a nutshell here's how to do it quickly and efficiently:
a.) disconnect the coil pack brackets, 6 bolts per side and pull your plug wires. its also easiest to pull your plugs and check them while your in there, plus they'll get in the way.

b.) once you get your manifolds/ headers off clean the exhaust side of the head with a flat scrape to make sure your gasket seals up perfectly. use a little spit shine here to get those aluminum heads nice and reynolds wrap bright.

c.) we used our private lift so everything was done from the bottom. on the passenger side, unbolt the starter and just let it hang, 2 5" bolts. it should then just slide on up and in with a little angling and put in your first and last header bolt just to keep place.

d.) now on the driver side you had might as well change your oil at the time, because its easiest to pull your oil filter/ drain plug. also disconnect the steering knuckle by undoing the upper and lower bolts, they are metric 11s. once this piece is disconnected do not move your wheel as it will throw off pinion alignment. these will now slide on up and in again with some coaxing but attach as done previously.

e.) be sure you have the correct gaskets per side as they are side specific. torque down all your header bolts with either locking or stock header bolts, its all the same but torque down evenly as if you dont you will cross thread a bolt or strip the head.

f.) the y-pipe is a snap, have it pieced together before putting it up to the headers underneath the car. tighten down the straps with a metric 14 and make sure you have these on tight as this is where exhaust leaks start to occur. resecure your o2 sensors with a metric 22 and then bolt it up to your catback.

e.) double check all your connections and fire it up to smell that cooking ceramic. make sure your o2 sims are in and working and crack a beer and <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

if you need any further assistance or technicalites just post up and ill answer.

M3EATER

Well.... I dunno about you guys, but....

I've installed the "Groty" desing headers (just did another set last week) and only removed the oil filter. The passenger side goes right up (from the bottom) with not even a little squeal. The driver side goes in but is tricky, you just have to fiddle with it until you get the right position & angle (the car does need to be up high).


Gordon
www.provenperformanceconcepts.com
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