dnm12

iTrader: (13)

I have 110K on the motor and have been thinking about cam swap, I want something large that will get me into the 11's, but I dont like the idea of going to sky high in the RPM's so what do I want? the MS3, or something from Thunder Racing, I will also be doing the timing chain, and a ported oil pump, so Texas Speed seems to have a nice deal for the MS3:

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=175&catid=49

about $700 for everything except oil pump ($129), (lifters?), gaskets, and timing chain ($100).

basically should it be done on a motor with this mileage and what else do i need if anything

TIA and I have searched a ton on hear and I know of the ls1howto
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

98LS-WON

I put in an F13 with 86K and haven't had any problems. Be sure to get hardened pushrods.

Rescue Ranger

iTrader: (10)

x2 on the PRs - a lot of high mileage guys have been ok with a lot of cams. I dont know about the MS3 in particular - but if I were you i'd go for it

dnm12

iTrader: (13)

chromoly harndend PR's or any type in particular, no lifters? thanks

SVT THIS

iTrader: (27)

With that high of mileage it would be wise to get new lifters. It would definately give me a good piece of mind. Factor in about 130 for the lifters. And, since you have to pull the heads to do the lifters factor in another 130 (not positive) for ARP head bolts and however much a head gasket kit costs. You could use OE head bolts for a little less but they are much tougher to torque down properly. Or, you could spend a little more and get ARP head studs and never worry about cleaning the bolt holes on your heads ever again.

dnm12

iTrader: (13)

so package with cam, pr, springs -$700
lifters, oil pump, timing chain-$360
ARP bolts and gaskets-$130 but why would i need to take my heads off??

$1190 plus one hell of a weekend.....=my solid 11's?

98LS-WON

These engines are different than older style blocks. You can't get to the lifters without removing the heads.

HOSS

iTrader: (12)

see sig

SVT THIS

iTrader: (27)

Solid 11s if you have the right supporting suspension mods and a set of sticky tires. But I wouldn't expect your rear end to last to long so I'd start setting aside about 2gs for a 9in or 12 bolt!

You COULD hold off on the lifters if you plan on doing heads shortly after the cam install. That's what I'm going to do. I'll just switch my lifters out then. It's also good motivation for me to get that money saved for the heads!

JacobK

iTrader: (10)

im getting ready to do a cam swap on my 99 SS with 121K miles on it..Im doing everything, but new lifters, so we will see how it goes..Im going with a custom grind cam, its 233/239 595/605 112lsa. so we will see how it goes

gun5l1ng3r

Are lifters really a good idea?
How about if the cam were a more mild cam like the TR224 or a Stealth II?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Heads and cam, 100K motor. Runs like new, mostly cause the top half IS new

dnm12

iTrader: (13)

right now I am tossed up between the rear end and cam....as of right now I am not launching at the drags and running the time in my sig, I figure if I wear to launch and actually hook I am looking at low to mid twelve's, I have a great deal of wheel spin into second, third and fourth. But I am looking at more like $3000 installed for my custom built dana 80, or 9 inch (I have a friend who builds rear ends for drags cars and want to build me one I can do wheelies with all day). So $3000 or $1200 obvioulsy more power=more tire spin but I bet I could creep down even further in the 1/4 mile either way. Thanks again for advice on the cam....