View Full Version : has anyone converted ls7 to wet sump


GEORGELS7SSR
05-19-2006, 11:42 AM
has anyone converted a ls7 to a wet sump.
i would like to find out what modifications will need to be done if possible to use a ls2 style pan because of space restrictions.
thanks :)

bg-sdpc
05-19-2006, 07:09 PM
has anyone converted a ls7 to a wet sump.
i would like to find out what modifications will need to be done if possible to use a ls2 style pan because of space restrictions.
thanks :)

Yes, you just use the wet sump pump, pickup, and pan. You also have to use a spacer on the balancer because the crank snout is longer. You will also have to change the windage tray.

Brian

GMW-CSL
05-19-2006, 08:13 PM
I've never heard of a spacer for the damper but you do have to shorten the crank snout to the stock LS1/6/2 length. Modify the windage tray as needed. Drill holes in the lifter guides so oil drains to the pan/pick-up as fast as possible. You don't want to starve this puppy. I may sound like I know what I'm talking about but I don't, it's just heresay.

GEORGELS7SSR
05-23-2006, 10:28 AM
thanks for the info,do you know who makes the spacers and will the stock ls2 oil pump,pan,timing cover etc.work?
thanks

Bill Reid
05-24-2006, 04:17 AM
thanks for the info,do you know who makes the spacers and will the stock ls2 oil pump,pan,timing cover etc.work?
thanks

George, call Brian and ask him for the spacer info... if he is recommending it he should have the info... and/or the source where you can pick it up... or at least the specs you can take to a machinest with a lathe. The spacer will go inbetween the balancer and the crank bolt. I'll betcha the thickness of the spacer is damn close to the difference between the LS7 and GENIII (LS1/2/6, etc) sprockets :)

Yes, everything you listed will work... but you will also need the bottom LS2 crank/pump sprocket.... here is the reason why... (sorry the pic is so big)

http://FileLibrary.MYAASite.Com/Content/29/29874/12594142.jpg

Left is the LS7 sprocket... right is the GENIII (LS1/2/6, etc) sprocket... if you don't change the lower sprocket... obviously none of your accessory drive will line up with the harmonic balancer you will use...

I would run the LS2 windage tray... but you will probably need spacers underneath it (between the main caps and tray) to keep the rods (4" stroke) from scraping the tray...

... and you'll need to machine the dip stick boss on the block... well... only if you plan on checking the oil level from time to time :jest:

Whats the motor going in? Going to stick with the 58x reluctor wheel and the 4x cam sprocket? If so, chances are you'll need to swap the cam sensor off the LS7 front cover to your LS2 cover.

Bill :)

GEORGELS7SSR
05-24-2006, 07:43 AM
Thanks For The Illustration And Info It Was Very Helpful It Answered Alot Of My Questions.

I'm Going To Put The Ls7 In A Ssr And I Have Already Converted To The 24 Tooth Reluctor And Change The Cam Gear.i Drive My Car Everyday And Want To Try To Have Most Of The Problems Solved Before The Swap.
Thank's
George

GMW-CSL
05-24-2006, 05:33 PM
Don't you have to shorten the crank by the amount the LS7 crank gear is longer than the LS1/6/2? What spacer are you guys talking about?

Bill Reid
05-25-2006, 02:58 AM
Don't you have to shorten the crank by the amount the LS7 crank gear is longer than the LS1/6/2? What spacer are you guys talking about?

Shortening the shaft is one route you can take...

You MUST use the shorter crank sprocket to get any GM GENIII accessory drive to line up... if you are not going to keep the LS7 dry sump system AND use an LS7 crank. Use the LS1/2/6 oil pump/front cover and your application specific pan/pickup/windage tray assembly. Now the only thing different is extra crank length (other than stroke with the precaution I mentioned earlier). You will then push the harmonic balancer on all the way... seating it against the crank sprocket as usual. Now there is a small portion of crank shaft sticking out the front of the harmonic balancer. Make a steel sleeve spacer just slightly longer than the shaft length sticking out... roughly the same distance as what you would see on a normal setup where the harmonic balancer ever so slightly over hangs the crank after it is fully seated... in this case it would be a spacer. Install, torque, and degree crank bolt as usual.

This is just another way of doing it... there is expense is shortening the crank. There is expense in fabbing a steel sleeve spacer. I guess it depends on how far the customer is going to get into a crate motor (which is what we're talking about here) to make the changes necessary for the application... and with the comfort level of the mods being performed I guess. Some might think its easier to shorten the crank... others may choose to keep the length there. I don't see how it compromises anything by leaving the length on there. It also leaves open the possibility of switching back to dry sump in the future once more aftermarket LS7 dry sump based pans become available and/or as the customer see's fit.

Bill :)