ALL UC2

iTrader: (4)

went to the track friday, for the first time since complete new drivetrain and suspension and had some problems

i have stock struts and springs in front, swaybar!
back i have ajustable lower control arms, and panhard and bmr t/a, stock springs and kyb ajustable shocks(i think they suck but they were there when i got the car)

car throws the weight like a ****, pulling the wheels a few inches off the line, then about 20 ft out breaks them loose. best 60 ft i pulled was a 1.65. i have a 4000 stall with a th350. and i could leave off the footbrake at 3200, but with the 1.65 60 i left at 2000rpm. what do i need to do to keep it from breaking loose 20ft out or so??? track wasnt preped that good though.... i am guessing i need some qa1's up front cause it starts spinning when the frontend starts to settle. let me here some suggestions. i know this think can 60 better than that


i did a search but couldnt come up with anything. car is cam only with 4.10 gears. if it matters.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

adj shocks out back. stiffen the rears.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

do you hace LCA reloaction brackets?

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

move IC forward some

qwiktim

iTrader: (7)

.....stiffer shocks out back......... sounds like rebound.

ALL UC2

iTrader: (4)

i have the shocks as stiff as they will go in the back. do i need an airbag??


and no i dont have relocation brackets. it doesnt wheel hop when it spins.

ALL UC2

iTrader: (4)

ic??? have to elaborate. not clicking with me

BAIN

iTrader: (5)

Instant center

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

Could be track prep. How many times did that happen? Tires? lean spot in your tune (pinging? nosing over a bit?)

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

what it sounds like is the car hits the tire leaving, hooks, lifts the nose and whenthe nose goes to set back down, it transfer's teh weight to the front too fast and unloads the tires. I had the same problem last year with my car with the M6 in it, and the only thign I could really do was play with air pressure, as I had stock shocks/springs all around. I found by airing the tires up a 1lb, it would blow the tires off, and by taking air out, it made the car bog on launch.


One thing you could probably do is get a set of adjustable shocks in the front, to slow down the weight transfer to the rear, this way the car will not experience the quick setdown after the initial launch and cause the car to bog. Personally, I got a set of hal R series for the front, this way I can control how fast the nose comes up, and regardless of how the car picks up, it will always set back down realtivly soft.

Unfortunately, I'll never know if that would have solved the problem, as I had a bottom end failure that prompted a new iron 402 motor to be built for the car, and I was planning on a th400 conversion already anyway, with a 4500 converter, fguring that would probably fix my inconsistancy and get the launch down, and eliminate the weak ink in my driveline at the same time.

ALL UC2

iTrader: (4)

i was kind of thinking the same thing on the front qa1's. i was planning on getting them anyway but i think that is gonnna be my next mod. i will probally get them all the way around.

does anyone think that with a whole set of qa1's i will still need an airbag?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you have a drag swaybar, or a good heavy aftermarket rear swaybar, probably not. With the qa1's, get all 4, you won't regret it.. I'm sure the shocks you have on teh rear, although they are adjustable to an extent, aren't really helping the cause much.


Also, do you have relocation brackets on your car/ what's the full suspension consist of?

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

QA1s set soft (1-3) on the front QA1s on the rear set (7-8) stiff. If you have an adjustable TA (front adjustment), Lower the front a tad to shift the instant center. It will keep from shocking the tires as bad at the hit.

If you aren't running a 28" stiff side wall slick you might consider it. Goo luck and keep us posted.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you are running a stock style tq arm, BMR sells a crossmember that has the TQ arm mount on it, and has 6 adjustment points. That is what I am going with for my new setup personally, and if you feel your instant center is causign porblems even after adding the shocks, this could be a way for you to adjust it.

What is our full chassis and tire setup? I'm no expert, but I'm sure there's plenty of people with experience on here that can steer you in the right direction.

ALL UC2

iTrader: (4)

full chassis setup is as follows


front is all stock except swaybar removed.


rear is

adj. lower control arms
adj panhard
bmr body mount t/a
removed rubber spacer on top of spring
kyb adj. shocks.(i know they suck but they were there when i got the thing.)

wheels and tires

pro stars with 165r's front and 26x10.5 et streets out back with no tubes. hooked best at about 12 psi

cam only(t-rex), full bolt ons, th350 w/ 4000 stall, 4.10 gears


i honestly think that i just need a set of qa1's to solve the problem. it was unloading when the front came back down a few feet out.

as for the tires, i have a 12 bolt that i am going to put in the car but dont have the money for gears and bearings right now, so i am still on the 10 bolt. i had these tires in my garage and figured that they might help save the 10bolt. i am planning on running 275/60 hoosier drag radials with the 12 bolt.


i just have the stock sway bar out back. car doesnt feel loose at the top end, do i still need a airbag or not??

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

The rear QA1s will make a big difference. You may also try borrowing a set of 28x10-15 slicks and see if it sticks. I bet those two things will have you set. Keep us posted!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

With your converter and gearign I doubt teh car is nosing over because of a power situation, so it's definately the suspension. I would leave the airbag in once you get the qa1's until you get a more heavy duty rear swaybar, the swaybar makes teh car leave strait and not load one tire more then another. I'd reccommend the aolfe solid one, or a bmr or spohn drag bar... but if a rod ended one is too much, then spohn has a 1 insh solid chromoly one that is like a stock style bar, but is stiff enough to preload the chassis some... that's what I have on my car and have been happy with it, not sure if it will be enough now though with the power my new setup will make.

ALL UC2

iTrader: (4)

well i ordered qa1's all the way around today, ill keep you posted on how they do next week. thanks for the help. i guess a swaybar is next in line.

ALL UC2

iTrader: (4)

by the way, i did a little bit of research before i ordered them, but which qa1's is everyone else useing??? i ordered the gen r's. now that i think about it should i have gotten the f's in the back and the r's in the front?? how is the firm compression going to work out back for me?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

diffrernet people run differnet setups, I personally went with the 12 way adj. rears, and the R series fronts.