Cchris1109

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys, took off the shorties and getting ready to install pacesetter long tubes and their Y pipe.

Have the spark plugs/wires/headers off the car

besides the steering column what comes off, should i lift up my motor, i just wanna get it ready for the weekend so i can just put em on and put the rest of the car back on.

94TA25ann

When I installed my Jet Hot Lt's, I had to jack up one side of the motor. Other things I took off were the starter and the oil filter to give me better access. Other than that you should be fine. good luck!

blind527

iTrader: (8)

You won't need to take off the steering column if you get Jet Hots. They have a seperate tube that goes around it. You may need to jack up your passenger side of the motor for better clearance, but def. take out that starter.

jldak318

iTrader: (3)

pacesetter install: from top of motor.

take out engine mount bolt on passanger side.
take off valve covers.
remove stearing shaft.
remove old headers/manifolds
jack up center of motor from oil pan. put 2x4 or piece of wood on the jack to protect oil pan.
the pass side should come up, slide header in from the top of engine. put plugs in and tighted header.
drop jack.
slide in driveside header and tighten it up.
put back on everything removed and enjoy.

jfyi: GET O2 EXTENTION WIRES THE 18" WIRES. THE CUT AND CRIMP METHOD WILL RESULT IN YOU BUYING ALOT OF O2 SENSORS.

Cchris1109

iTrader: (11)

hopefully ill gain a noticable difference in power

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

It's hard to find the 18" wires, all I found was the 24". Rather have more than not enough...

JL8Jeff

iTrader: (14)

Are you installing emission's longtubes or race headers? The emission's ones are much more difficult due to the AIR and EGR ports on the passenger side. As for the driver's side, you just need to unbolt the steering shaft where it connects to the R&P and slide it up and off for the extra clearance. You might not even need to do that, but it's only 1 bolt and will make things a lot easier. For the passenger side I removed the starter, unbolted the motor mount and replaced the bushings and still had to jack the engine up with the motor mount rotated out of the way to get the header in. There is no way to get the header in from the top with an emission's header. The EGR hits the firewall and you're stuck. Oh yeah, get ready to curse a lot so have some beer handy when you need to take a break!

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I am lucky, I am putting my LT's on at the same time as the 383 swap/M6 Conversion. We are dropping it out the bottom. The hardest part will be taking the petals out, drilling the Master Cylinder hole, lining that up, and putting all that back together.

ls1charged

iTrader: (8)

im going to be puting some LT's on in the near future, do u have to jack up one side of the motor, is there any other way?

OneFast97Z

Remove the starter, remove the oil filter, and.....

While the front of the car is suspended in air by jackstands, take your jack and jack up the k-member until the car has just cleared the jackstands... there are three bolts on each side of the car that hold the k-member up.... remove the middle and front bolts (first two on each side looking at the car from the front)... then loosen the third bolt on each side so only about 1/4th of the bolts threads are threaded in.... then... lower the jack so the car sits back down on the jackstands.... DO THIS SLOWLY... this will lower the engine and should provide you with just enough room to slide the headers in.... iv done this every single time when installing headers for friends and iv never had a problem with getting them in...

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

one fastz...sounds dangerous

edlt1

Drop the EGR, AIR, AC and the slide right in. I had to use a block on my jack to get the car up heigh enough for the passenger side though. No big deal.

I thought the worst part was getting the manifolds off, but if you already have done shorties you should be fine.

OneFast97Z

Nah, not dangerous... i should also mention that its always a good idea to keep the jack or a jackstand under the k-member for safty...

azvforce

iTrader: (-1)

Don't use the bolts or the gaskets that come with the headers. Get some Stage 8 bolts and some decent gaskets. The headers will be very close to the floorboard on at least one side. Your motor may rotate under power and cause the header to hit the floorboard which will drive you crazy. I replaced my motor mounts with stiffer Prothane mounts to fix this. You will need extension for your O2s or you can splice them and add length. I would go ahead and replace your spark plugs at the same time and possibly wires.

I only removed the oil filter, short steering shaft, starter and alternator. Loosening Kmember bolts was not necessary for me.

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

check out this page its pretty good and covers almost everything, its not for pacesetters but its for FLPs but check it out it might give you ideas and has lots of pictures.
http://www.projectgangreen.com/flp2win.htm

OneFast97Z

Hahaha... thats tims page... the funny thing about that link is... those exact flp headers in those pictures that were put on tims car are now on my car and he now has jet hot non emissions headers

But anyway, whatever you do... DO NOT get stage 8 locking header bolts... especially if you have an lt1... otherwise... best of luck getting all those locks on... gotta love how close the lt1 header bolts are to the exhaust pipes...

JL8Jeff

iTrader: (14)

I've got the Stage 8 bolts on my LT1. It just takes a little grinding down on a couple of the clips, no big deal compared to getting the actual headers installed. I've had to remove the headers to change gaskets too. I don't think the Breslin split lock would be much better because it doesn't look like you would be able to get the allen wrench on a couple because of the header tubes.

azvforce

iTrader: (-1)

I didn't run the locks. I just bought them because they were good bolts and had an allen in the middle as well as the 12pt head.

Sick99WS6

iTrader: (2)

I use to have a write up on the FLP install but don't know where it went. lol. Anyway, I didn't have to jack up the motor or anything. A little wiggling and they slipped right in.

As far as the bang on the floorboard, that is very common and it is a complete PITA. The fix, I took some very high temp tubing, cut it so that it could lie flat, then put two pieces on top of each other in between the floorboard and the pipe. Problem solved. You might need to use a little hairspray just to keep it a little sticky and it doesn't rattle out but mine worked fine just by wedging down the pipe and sliding the tubing in there.

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

yea I didnt have to jack up the motor either, I just had to slide them in side ways and twist and they went right in.

And Stage 8 bolts are awesome and work like magic. They are a pain to get in though and I wouldnt recommend it to any one who is easily frustrated or doesnt have higher automotive skills