BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Im looking at speed inc 370 shortblock possibly. This is the listing they gave for whats in the block.

SPORTSMAN SHORT BLOCK INCLUDES:
-GM 6.0 Iron Block
-Polished& refinished factory LS1 crankshaft
-Billet 6.125” connecting rods
-Diamond Flat top Piston w/2cc reliefs or -8.6cc Boost pistons
-Diamond Pro-select rings
-High performance bearings
-All Gaskets, seals and hardware for short block
-Fully balanced/blueprinted/Finish hone w/torque plate, assembled


The rods are eagles from what i got in another email with speed inc. Im waiting to find out what bearings are used also.

Now im thinking main studs for sure, possibly L19 or maybe just the ARP2000's, should i be asking about a upgraded or lighter something or another? I beleive im gonna ask for clevite H series bearings. What else should i be looking at? In the future im looking to upgrade my build and go for 800-1000 RWHP and id like to build something to hold that power level.

2002 Trans Am

tagging a long this thread.

from what I read most often it seems the rods and pistons are the big items. Perhaps you can go better than Diamond and Eagle, maybe Mahle and Oliver??? Of course the higher end Mahle and Oliver

FANTAZ28

iTrader: (2)

thats the same shortblock that was used in the speed inc shop car! and held up to alot of pass's and street miles. you cant go wrong! and im sure the price is right

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Yeah its the shop car shortblock, and they do have awesome pricing! Its nice that they are a half hour ride from me too! Cant say enough good stuff about them, awesome having a shop of that calibur down the street practically!

DSG

iTrader: (1)

What about O-ringing the block??? And I would do like 1/2 inch head studs.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

werd... 1/2'' head studs for sure

FANTAZ28

iTrader: (2)

depending on the amount of power hes looking to make.... for a street car i would go with cometics, seal great .. have made about 1000rwhp on the shop car and im sure more on others and dont leak.. we had copper on a GN that was street driven and on start up coppers leak till the motor gets a little wormer. wont have that prbolem with cometics

stang90gt50

iTrader: (6)

Be very careful listing to guys on here that haven't built high HP big boost setups on here and are shooting advise on what you need.


1) Eagle h-beam rods /w ARP 2000 rod bolts are good to 1200 horsepower, easy. Theres no reason to throw anything else in it. I know several turbo mustang guys in the 7's on them.

2) Mahle standard Powerpak shelf pistons are not a upgrade to Diamond pistons. Mahles work great up to about a 1000hp but they are a 4032 alloy and not as strong as most shelf Diamond, Wiseco, Ross, CP etc 2618 alloy pistons.

3) There is ZERO reason to goto a cometic head gasket. Is it often a downgrade compared to factory MLS 6.0L GM head gaskets. Cometics have sealing problems sometimes and its just not worth the potential hassle if they do. GM gaskets have proven themselves in MANY 8 second LS1's

4) 1/2" Head studs are complete unnecessary. ARP standard head studs have worked great with zero problems on many 20+ psi 1000+hp setups. Dont let guys who are "internet learned" and not hands on experience spend your money wastefully. You dont need to o-ring the block either.

LSs1Power

iTrader: (5)

Is their 370cid sportsman block the same price as the 348cid one? I dont see a 370 on their website. If it has the same price then its the best bang for the buck out there.

Whats the weight on the billet rods? Is the billet rods better than Callies? Also would they do a 15 cc pistons with lowered rings for boost instead of the 8.6 they have on there?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I have:
-348ci
-Diamond custom pistons to achieve 8.25:1 compression
-ARP main studs
-A1 head studs
-GM MLS head gaskets for 6.0 heads
-6.125 Eagle rods
-Stock crank
-Dual roller chain

I would not mess with 1/2 inch head studs. I would not o-ring the heads unless the car is a dedicate track car.

LSs1Power

iTrader: (5)

How much boost did you run through this combo?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

21.5....

But 18 on most of my 144mph passes.

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Email them for the latest pricing, but ill say its a DAMN GOOD deal!

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

What are A1 head studs? Another brand other then ARP, or is that a line of studs ARP makes?

Also i will not be 0-ringing it, really not necessary in my power levels in my opinion. Also ill be trusting GM and their MLS gaskets for this motor. Just wondering if theres anything i could do for not much more $ now that ill regrett not doing later.

FUroundeye

iTrader: (6)

One thing I haven't heard much about is machining the block to accept oil squirters that squirt oil on the bottom of the piston to keep it cool. I know some of the imports come w/ them stock, including Supras, and I remember seeing that there was a company that made some for use on small block Chevys. I suspect that the cost of machining the block, as well as potential issues w/ reduced oil pressure, make it not really worth the hassle for the potential benefit, but maybe someone who knows more about it can chime in.

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Deffinatly not gonna get oil squirters! But intresting idea.

FANTAZ28

iTrader: (2)

speed inc's motor prices are unreal and dont forget being local there is no shipping cost!

mdhmi

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the process of building a forged motor right now.

The major items are quality forged rods and pistons. You'll also want ARP main studs, a good ring package and a heavy duty timing set. I'd also budget for an oil pump.

Mark

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Oil squirters are justified for hi-speed, long distance racing or Autobahn use. 1/4 mile or occasional street blasts don't warrant the effort/expense and oil sysytem mods.

The other application that warrants it is heavy nitrous use, to minimize the piston crown temp changes.

Jim