FYI > Good info for folks needing to remove crank pulley + P/Ns
02-04-2003, 08:20 PM
#1
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FYI > Good info for folks needing to remove crank pulley + P/Ns I am in the middle of installing a head/cam/header package on my 98 TA. Removing the crank pulley became a real nightmare. Here is what I learned + the P/Ns for a longer crank bolt. Hope this helps someone:
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Autozone has two different size gear pullers. Use the smaller size 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley. Also, you will need a longer crank bolt. The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point ½” drive socket, go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It don’t grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt.
If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.
On an A4 car, remove the 2 bolts that hold up the starter. Let the starter just hang by it’s wires. Put a steel pin such as a large allen wrench in one of the holes in the flex plate (flywheel). Turn the engine with your breaker bar attached to the 24mm ½” drive socket until the engine stops turning do the to pin hitting up against the block. You will need about a 2 foot piece of pipe [and] your long ½” drive breaker bar to loosen the pulley bolt. In fact, I had to use both feet to loosen the bolt!
Once the bolt breaks loose, install the puller. As you use the puller, you will need to unscrew the crank bolt when the pulley hits up against it. Keep doing this untill there are not enough threads left on the stock bolt to pull the pulley all the way off. Then install your longer bolt and pull the pulley the rest of the way off.
You will also need this longer bolt to start pushing the pulley back on the crank during re-assembly. The stock bolt just is not long enough, and banging on the pulley to start it on the crank is NOT the answer.
Ron,
_______________________________________________
Autozone has two different size gear pullers. Use the smaller size 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley. Also, you will need a longer crank bolt. The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point ½” drive socket, go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It don’t grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt.
If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.
On an A4 car, remove the 2 bolts that hold up the starter. Let the starter just hang by it’s wires. Put a steel pin such as a large allen wrench in one of the holes in the flex plate (flywheel). Turn the engine with your breaker bar attached to the 24mm ½” drive socket until the engine stops turning do the to pin hitting up against the block. You will need about a 2 foot piece of pipe [and] your long ½” drive breaker bar to loosen the pulley bolt. In fact, I had to use both feet to loosen the bolt!
Once the bolt breaks loose, install the puller. As you use the puller, you will need to unscrew the crank bolt when the pulley hits up against it. Keep doing this untill there are not enough threads left on the stock bolt to pull the pulley all the way off. Then install your longer bolt and pull the pulley the rest of the way off.
You will also need this longer bolt to start pushing the pulley back on the crank during re-assembly. The stock bolt just is not long enough, and banging on the pulley to start it on the crank is NOT the answer.
Ron,
02-05-2003, 10:58 AM
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Re: FYI > Good info for folks needing to remove crank pulley + P/Ns Excellent info. WJ. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
02-05-2003, 04:10 PM
#3
Re: FYI > Good info for folks needing to remove crank pulley + P/Ns Not so fast! Let me mod that procedure on one of the steps. After you get the factory bolt out and your installing the puller you put a LARGE allen head cap screw in the hole the factory crank bolt came out of instead of pushing against the factory bolt. The puller rod bucks up against the head of the allen screw as the point on the tip of the rod CENTERS ITSELF in the hex shaped hole in the top of the allen head cap screw. Don't forget to put a few big flat washer under the head of the allen head cap screw before you start this procedure. If you put forth enough effort to find a 16mmX2mmX120mm bolt finding a BIG allen head cap screw should be easy and it doesn't even need to be metric. This is a lot better than trying to push against the factory bolt because the point on the puller rod has to try and center itself all the while digging into the bolt head as it pushes ever harder in an attempt to get the pulley to come off. When you use a allen head cap screw the screw head already has a hole in it which makes the puller rod self-aligning. This wouldn't be such a big deal, but that pulley and bolt requires a LOT of force to remove.
