a couple of flycutting questions....chime in
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a couple of flycutting questions....chime in
OK here we go
1) Can you flycut pistons while they are in the block, and can you do it yourself with the tool from LG they rent out?
2) When do you HAVE to flycut....is there a tested combo out there where Flycutting is not neccesary, or should you do it on almost ANY h/c swap as a safey measure...
3) If you hav to flycut, how in the hell do you knwo how deep to go and so on....
THANKS
erik
1) Can you flycut pistons while they are in the block, and can you do it yourself with the tool from LG they rent out?
2) When do you HAVE to flycut....is there a tested combo out there where Flycutting is not neccesary, or should you do it on almost ANY h/c swap as a safey measure...
3) If you hav to flycut, how in the hell do you knwo how deep to go and so on....
THANKS
erik
#2
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1. Yes you can flycut the piston while they are in the block and while the engine is in the car.
2. Having to flycut depends on many things like gasket thickness, base circle of the cam, milling of the heads, valve job, valve size (diameter), and valve margin (part that hangs down into the piston). You won't usually have to flycut unless you get aggressive with the cam duration or milling of the heads.
3. By measuring the Piston to Valve clearance. Suggested clearance is .080 on intake and .1 on exhaust. If your below those specs, you should flycut. I just wrote a how to on how to check ptv clearance here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....64&postcount=6
2. Having to flycut depends on many things like gasket thickness, base circle of the cam, milling of the heads, valve job, valve size (diameter), and valve margin (part that hangs down into the piston). You won't usually have to flycut unless you get aggressive with the cam duration or milling of the heads.
3. By measuring the Piston to Valve clearance. Suggested clearance is .080 on intake and .1 on exhaust. If your below those specs, you should flycut. I just wrote a how to on how to check ptv clearance here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....64&postcount=6
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The original guide at FFHP has been removed: http://www.ffhp.net/tech_Isky.htm
Im trying to get a cached copy from archive.org, but its not coming up for me either...
Im trying to get a cached copy from archive.org, but its not coming up for me either...
Last edited by GuitsBoy; 05-30-2006 at 10:37 AM.
#7
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
Yeah, you're probably right. I don't think that has to do with ptv clearance does it? It was really late when I wrote that
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
The original guide at FFHP has been removed: http://www.ffhp.net/tech_Isky.htm
Im trying to get a cached copy from archive.org, but its not coming up for me either...
Im trying to get a cached copy from archive.org, but its not coming up for me either...
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Originally Posted by 405HP_Z06
I have it in .PDF format but can't post becuase it's too big. If anyone want's it, send me an email and I'll forward. aaronanderson@mac.com
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Originally Posted by 405HP_Z06
I have it in .PDF format but can't post becuase it's too big. If anyone want's it, send me an email and I'll forward. aaronanderson@mac.com
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
How big is it? Ill post it on my server is its not gonna kill my bandwidth... Shoot me an email to tony(a)ihearyou!com.
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hey one question what is an ideal amount to flycut...for instance...can you go to much???? Is there a depth you can cut that will clear any set up and wont hurt performance?
THANKS
THANKS
#17
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I wouldnt go past .100 to .120 deep on stock pistons. I guess the ideal setup is to go as small as you can, while creating enough clearance for any cam youll be running in the forseeable future. Keep in mind, if you need .020 more p-v clearance, you can not simply cut .020, you have to cut deeper. Since the valve is on an angle, and p-v does not happen exactly at TDC, the valve will not fall directly into the releif, it may touch down on a shallower portion, or part that hasnt even been cut at all...
I started with a .075 deep cut when i notched mine.
I started with a .075 deep cut when i notched mine.
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
I wouldnt go past .100 to .120 deep on stock pistons. I guess the ideal setup is to go as small as you can, while creating enough clearance for any cam youll be running in the forseeable future. Keep in mind, if you need .020 more p-v clearance, you can not simply cut .020, you have to cut deeper. Since the valve is on an angle, and p-v does not happen exactly at TDC, the valve will not fall directly into the releif, it may touch down on a shallower portion, or part that hasnt even been cut at all...
I started with a .075 deep cut when i notched mine.
I started with a .075 deep cut when i notched mine.
Did you do any measuring? or did youjust kinda think about it in your head and go with the .075 because it was a safe bet?
What set up are you running...I was thinking about the LG 205 cc AFR's milled to 59cc, and the G5X3, I was told by Bobby at LG that the pistons shoudl be flycut, but then i heard from others with this set up that you dont have to...car wont see track but maybe once and rpms stay lower than 6000 always...its like a weekend cruiser...
what do you think?