Custom connectors for wiring LC1 narrowband/wideband/EGR
#1
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Custom connectors for wiring LC1 narrowband/wideband/EGR
For those that want your LC1 to be both narrowband and wideband and are going to use the EGR as the 0-5V input for the wideband...
One of our sponsors, Caspers Electronics, is going to make me the female EGR and male O2 connectors that I'll need to make the LC1 hookup completely plug and play. $22 shipped.
If anyone is interested, you might just want to contact John and support one of our sponsors.
One of our sponsors, Caspers Electronics, is going to make me the female EGR and male O2 connectors that I'll need to make the LC1 hookup completely plug and play. $22 shipped.
If anyone is interested, you might just want to contact John and support one of our sponsors.
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hmm... this could make for a clean little setup to tune cars without a spare bung. I've been using an LM1 for a while, so sorry for being a bit ignorant here, but would there be any wires run into the passenger compartment with it set up like that?
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Originally Posted by SMOKINV8
hmm... this could make for a clean little setup to tune cars without a spare bung. I've been using an LM1 for a while, so sorry for being a bit ignorant here, but would there be any wires run into the passenger compartment with it set up like that?
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What I was planning on doing was having the LC1 control box inside the car, so there would be wires running from outside to inside. I guess if you had the LC1 control box mounted under the hood somewhere you wouldn't have anything running inside the car, would you? Is that what some people are/were doing?
My plan was to use the stock O2 connector and get heater power (red wire to pin D), heater ground (blue wire to pin C), narrowband output (yellow wire to pin B), and narrowband ground (white wire to pin A).
The LC1 green wire would also run to pin A, as well as the black calibration wire with the LED and pushbutton inline as required.
Then the only thing left would be to run the LC1 brown wire to the brown wire on the EGR connector for the 0-5v reference.
Sound about right?
My plan was to use the stock O2 connector and get heater power (red wire to pin D), heater ground (blue wire to pin C), narrowband output (yellow wire to pin B), and narrowband ground (white wire to pin A).
The LC1 green wire would also run to pin A, as well as the black calibration wire with the LED and pushbutton inline as required.
Then the only thing left would be to run the LC1 brown wire to the brown wire on the EGR connector for the 0-5v reference.
Sound about right?
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#8
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Originally Posted by SICK WS 6
For those that want your LC1 to be both narrowband and wideband and are going to use the EGR as the 0-5V input for the wideband...
One of our sponsors, Caspers Electronics, is going to make me the female EGR and male O2 connectors that I'll need to make the LC1 hookup completely plug and play. $22 shipped.
If anyone is interested, you might just want to contact John and support one of our sponsors.
One of our sponsors, Caspers Electronics, is going to make me the female EGR and male O2 connectors that I'll need to make the LC1 hookup completely plug and play. $22 shipped.
If anyone is interested, you might just want to contact John and support one of our sponsors.
the parts themselves are only a few dollars.....
but the crimper tool is not cheap and its a pain in the *** to crimp those dam thing...
$22 is a good deal
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So I could use this to connect my WB02 sensor to my harness/plug that my NB02 sensor was and I don't have to cut/splice anything and then put the WB02 sensor in the front, right hole where my NB02 was?
If so, Thank You Very Much for the heads up!
Have a Happy and Safe Fourth and GOD Bless our Troops!
If so, Thank You Very Much for the heads up!
Have a Happy and Safe Fourth and GOD Bless our Troops!
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very nice. i just might have to pick that up. i was plannin on makin mine setup just like that, but this would make it really easy. how would u setup the calibration switch thing?