sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

well...words cannot explain how happy i am graduation and my birthday happen to be in the same month. basically...
long story short im up about $2 grand right now and i only plan on spending about $1500 towards my car...these are the mods i was thinking of doing..

valvetrain: TR 224 cam/TSP 224, 918 springs, hardened push rods, LS2 timing chain
*since i wont be spraying often i dont know if i should go with a split duration cam
**Chances are ill order one of the package deals from TSP or TR which go for like $500..

suspension: UMI subframe con.,possibly a torque arm, relocation brackets for my LCAs

Nitrous: nos 5177 kit (dry) *or* the Harris Speed Works dry kit.


now i need some suggestions..do you think this is a good route to follow? i was also contemplating on a H/C combo...but i dont know if i want THAT much power 24/7..i like the idea behind the cam+n20 because if i run N/A ill be around like 370+ RWHP...then with n20 ill be over 400rwhp easily..i want this car to be daily driveable and have power when i want it. i want my motor to be reliable and not have a risk of braking parts...but i know thats part of the game, and it all depends on how it was installed and cared for, i understand that.

**IF i do go n20 i will most likely be getting a new fuel pump, and possibly injectors and colder plugs...

and following all the mods will come a tune..


any comments, suggestions, construction criticism would be GREATLY appreciated..thank you!

(my car currently has the following: Pacesetter LTs, TSP catted Y, Hooker C/B, March U/D pulley, Nitto 555rIIs, UMI LCAs + Panhard)

-Joey

DD966

iTrader: (3)

I spent $1000+ for my current dry N2O system, and love it. So... that is what I recommend. My system has just about everything:
FPSS
Purge
Window switch
Bottle warmer
Remote bottle opener
Colder plugs (an absolute must)
Tune (another absolute must)
I did not upgrade my fuel delivery system. You don't need to unless you plan on a 150 shot or bigger (which I don't recommend).

I don't think $1500 is going to cover a cam and N2O, unless you are doing all of the work yourself including the tuning. The tuning is extremely important for driveability and reliability. Good Luck.

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

i think your n20 set up is a little more aggresive then the one i would go with..
i have over 1500....i just wanted to spend around 1000 on my whole set up...not including install/tune...thank you for the comment

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

the other choice is going with a H/C set up...most likely the TSP PRC LS6 heads + 224 cam

thislswon

iTrader: (5)

if you go with the bottle id got with a tnt wet kit....from the majority dyno number i have seen ls1's make better power on a wet shot then dry and 1500 is gonna be cuttin it close...especially if you want a good tune...and i suggest HP tuning software!!! if i was you i would look for used nitrous kit...i got mine from a buddy for 200$ and the kit was only a year old and had less than 2 full bottles through it

blkZ28spt

I would cam it. I would also go with a larger cam, but that decision is completely up to the individual and you would want gears to match the medium or large cam.

Nitrous can make nasty power for the money, think rwtq near 500 with a proper nitrous setup on your car. However it is only part time and, of course, puts more stress on the motor. You also need to refill the bottle to use it which can be an annoyance and requires more money on a regular basis.

For a daily driver I would stick with 24/7 mods for now. Don't forget that the rear end is a ticking time either..