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cutting radiator support?

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Old 06-03-2006, 08:55 PM
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Default cutting radiator support?

by doing this how weak will it make the front stucure of the car. i mean ive already cut on the front bumpre support for the IC, now im thinking of cutting on the rad support to sit it up and put the stock fans back on. will this make it weak or wil i notice anything, like swaying or flexing or anything like that while driving and under throttle? just wonder what you guys think before i start cutting?
Old 06-03-2006, 10:57 PM
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Id like to know too. Its on my list of things to do lol.


-john
Old 06-03-2006, 11:10 PM
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Definitely interested.
Old 06-03-2006, 11:12 PM
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as long as you add a lower support back you will be ok, and leave the top one in tact
Old 06-03-2006, 11:36 PM
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Probably be fine strength wise if you tie(weld) the cut sections back together with a nice strong section when relocating the upper radiator support/piece, like the ones pictured on the truck pics up top. Reference NA$TY-TA's build and other stenod cars to see how they did it.
Old 06-03-2006, 11:40 PM
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like these


gotta look close at this one


Both good looking examples there. Tie the shock towers together with a STB for another piece of mind too.
Old 06-03-2006, 11:43 PM
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I cut the radiator support in my 1LE car and braced it with a piece of 1"x1" square tube. I also boxed the end of the supprt. The car did not have a front bumber support at all. From what I could tell the car lost little to no structural rigidity. I had a bunch of pics but my PC crashed and I lost them all.
Old 06-04-2006, 03:52 AM
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frcefed98. Was exactly the picture I would have posted my SS. Both bottom and top were cut, removed and than replace with chomoly pipe. Allowed us to lay the radiator down as shown.

David
Old 06-04-2006, 11:22 AM
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so you dont notice any difference with that cut
Old 06-04-2006, 08:15 PM
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Yup. Gave me a lot more room Nothing in strength wise.

David
Old 06-05-2006, 08:45 AM
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when I cut mine out, I made sure to support the frame rails (jack on the inside pushing out/come-along on the outside pulling in) to prevent any frame distortion. You shouldn't have any problem if the k-member is attached, but I wanted to be safe.

The actual modification wasn't that hard.


I also dropped the lower support about an inch and a half and moved it forward slightly.
Old 06-05-2006, 03:08 PM
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When there is nothing tieing the two frame rails together, they move pretty easily. My engine is out, and I cut off the upper and lower radiator supports for a radiator relocation project. I can grab the end of the frame rail and move it easily. But not up and down, and not side to side. It moves diagonally.

There is a brace that runs under the fender, from the firewall to the headlight. That brace keeps the rail from moving toward the headlight or away from it. But it doesn't do anything to prevent movement at a 90 degree angle from it. (see quickie ms-paint jpg below).

I would definitely not lift the car by the frame rails for an engine removal, with those supports gone. The k-member will be the only thing keeping the front of the rails from floating.
Attached Thumbnails cutting radiator support?-frame-rail-movement.jpg  
Old 06-05-2006, 04:48 PM
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I just have one question, what are you guys using to cut the support out? My dad is a Welder so welding a support bar in place will not be a problem, cutting it however I am trying to figure out .

Mongose I just realized your and LT1 car like myself do you have any more pics of your setup???
Thanks
Old 06-05-2006, 05:43 PM
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I used a Sawzaw. Get a Bi-Metal blade around 8 to 10 inches long.
Old 06-05-2006, 05:52 PM
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Cut off wheel will get it done cleanly....damn sawzalls are violent SOB's....
Old 06-05-2006, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by T/A KID
Mongose I just realized your and LT1 car like myself do you have any more pics of your setup???
Thanks
http://www.quarter-mile.net/images/TA/ Most of the pictures are pretty old since I don't feel like taking new ones (and that it hasn't changed in a while).

Originally Posted by wickedred
I used a Sawzaw. Get a Bi-Metal blade around 8 to 10 inches long.
That's what I used. The metal is a single layer of stamped steel. A Bi-Metal cuts through it like paper. I used a wheel to clean it up before I welded the bar in.
Old 06-05-2006, 09:05 PM
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thanks for all the replies. for some reason mine is staying cool at the moment at least. i think it will do ok once i get the thermostat back in i dunno
Old 06-05-2006, 09:28 PM
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this guy did a good job
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452502
Old 06-05-2006, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE

Dang i get around ha ha ha
Old 06-07-2006, 08:34 AM
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i guess u guys want to move it up for the use of a bigger turbo/s,i mean theres alot of member running t76 and dont move nothing.now if u do move it front wat can u do for the ac condenser if ur keeping it?


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