Decided to go with a fully welded sway bar instead of the bolt in
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Decided to go with a fully welded sway bar instead of the bolt in
I went to Neverlift today and spoke to Leo about it. He's gonna fab up a fully welded sway (drag) bar for me. He said the bolt in would help me BUT because of the torque the car makes and that I have a long torque arm (Stealth TA) the solid one would be a better choice. He says that the longer the torque arm the more dramatic the body roll gets because of where it pivots. My appointment isn't for like 3 weeks so I'm sidelined till then. He's gonna get it on the scales for me also. He doesn't think it's the rear at all.
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Suspention Techniques 25mm Solid Rear sway bar, using factory atachment points. I have the Stealth Torque Arm as well. Stock WS.6 rear shocks and stock WS.6 rear springs.
Now doing low 1.4 60's with a best of 1.40
You sure you want to go as far as a weld in drag bar Mark?
Now doing low 1.4 60's with a best of 1.40
You sure you want to go as far as a weld in drag bar Mark?
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Alex, It's true you do have a point though. I appreciate the 2 cents. What's the worst that could happen, it doesn't do what I need it to and I pull it and sell it, no big deal.
I could always go with the solid one later BUT IF this works and from talkin' to you and other members it will, I'll have a more streetable set up.
My appointment isn't with NL for another 3 weeks anyway, I could have this bar installed and track tested before that time.
Bain, I had a thread on this recently, members were asking if my rear was ok (posi, spool etc.) because that also could be forcing the car to the right. Also they were saying that the car should be put on some corner scales. Have you tried that?
I could always go with the solid one later BUT IF this works and from talkin' to you and other members it will, I'll have a more streetable set up.
My appointment isn't with NL for another 3 weeks anyway, I could have this bar installed and track tested before that time.
Bain, I had a thread on this recently, members were asking if my rear was ok (posi, spool etc.) because that also could be forcing the car to the right. Also they were saying that the car should be put on some corner scales. Have you tried that?
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I am running the spohn drag bar, on a heavy car the 25mm with stock ends probbaly wont do it unless you preload it some. The drag bar is huge but i have seen cars with the 25mm bar work pretty well.
I wasnt trying to talk you out of a welded bar either, matter of fact I have a brand new Wolfe here that is a good 20lbs lighter then the Spohn that will make its way onto the car eventually..
I wasnt trying to talk you out of a welded bar either, matter of fact I have a brand new Wolfe here that is a good 20lbs lighter then the Spohn that will make its way onto the car eventually..
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I ordered the Drag Bar. Shipping weight is 34#'s!! If it keeps me straight I'll take the weight.
I know you guys weren't trying to talk me out of anything, we're just discussing here
If I can get a more streetable ride than it's worth the try.
Thanks again.
I know you guys weren't trying to talk me out of anything, we're just discussing here
If I can get a more streetable ride than it's worth the try.
Thanks again.
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Originally Posted by tektrans
I ordered the Drag Bar. Shipping weight is 34#'s!! If it keeps me straight I'll take the weight.
I know you guys weren't trying to talk me out of anything, we're just discussing here
If I can get a more streetable ride than it's worth the try.
Thanks again.
I know you guys weren't trying to talk me out of anything, we're just discussing here
If I can get a more streetable ride than it's worth the try.
Thanks again.
The Spohn drag bar drives great on the street, since I am doing a 10pt now I wont be street driving it so I'll probbaly put the wolfe on to save a few lbs. Mine was 37lbs on my scales with all the hardware, the wolfe is like 17.
I dont think you will have any problems with the spohn, it is a super stout bar and the endlinks are huge. You do have to weld the brackets where they bolt to the frame but you could probably make a few passes without welding them to make sure it does the job.
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I also have the spohn drag bar in the car. I went to Atco last week for a rental and I was still having some problems launching hard. best I could pull off on a easy launch was 1.48 60' But I will say the car is coming out straight. back in the fall I was running the stock rear bar and I cut a best of 1.39 but the car was pulling hard to the right. with some better track prep and maybe some suspension adjustments I am sure I will get the car into the very low 1.3's maybe even 1.2 60'
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Drag bar just came in today, pretty stout piece. I'm sure it'll get me in the 1.3's.
Pete, if you get a 1.2 60', you're lookin' at a 10 teen run, pretty cool. You still drivin' that thing to the track or are ya towin' it?
Pete, if you get a 1.2 60', you're lookin' at a 10 teen run, pretty cool. You still drivin' that thing to the track or are ya towin' it?
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Originally Posted by bspz28
I've been towing it for a while now . If I did not have to drive threw the city I would think about driving it.
That is perfect, cause in the fall when Ill be back to the track, if you still want to race. You can tow you'r car to my house, then we can both drive our cars to Atco. Race each other, and drive back to my house. No city driving required, all on the NJTP and Rt206.