Switching from 94 to 96 Steering Column/Wheel.. Problem
06-06-2006, 03:49 PM
#1
Switching from 94 to 96 Steering Column/Wheel.. Problem Well I pulled the 96 column out successfully (cant get the wheel to come out with puller after a hour or so of trying it just won't move) anyways I noticed the switch for the hibeams is broke and when I push it forward or back its just limp it won't click like my 94's.. how do I go about to fix this is there a DIY or something??
thanks
thanks
06-07-2006, 06:20 AM
#3
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Does it move freely? As in forward and back like if it wasnt connected? Had the same problem on my 95... I bought a new switch, that wasnt it, tried moving the rod up, wasnt it... Had GM send over the part diagrams for everything in the area, still no sign of the connecting part I needed. Went to the Blazer in my back yard and it ended up having the small little plastic piece (about the size of a tictac) which connects the metal rod to the switch. Hope this helps, no one seemed to know about the part and parts diagrams didnt have it either.
06-07-2006, 11:53 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Charging TA
Does it move freely? As in forward and back like if it wasnt connected? Had the same problem on my 95... I bought a new switch, that wasnt it, tried moving the rod up, wasnt it... Had GM send over the part diagrams for everything in the area, still no sign of the connecting part I needed. Went to the Blazer in my back yard and it ended up having the small little plastic piece (about the size of a tictac) which connects the metal rod to the switch. Hope this helps, no one seemed to know about the part and parts diagrams didnt have it either.
06-07-2006, 01:30 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Charging TA
Does it move freely? As in forward and back like if it wasnt connected? Had the same problem on my 95... I bought a new switch, that wasnt it, tried moving the rod up, wasnt it... Had GM send over the part diagrams for everything in the area, still no sign of the connecting part I needed. Went to the Blazer in my back yard and it ended up having the small little plastic piece (about the size of a tictac) which connects the metal rod to the switch. Hope this helps, no one seemed to know about the part and parts diagrams didnt have it either.
06-07-2006, 02:34 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
When I took apart my column there was a little black plastic piece like that which fell off when I pulled the turn signal housing off. You have to just sit it in the right position and hope you don't knock it off when putting the housing back on. Wish I had taken pics! Knew someone could use them!
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06-08-2006, 01:04 AM
#9
Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
Yes! I think you are talking about the same piece. I don't think the dealer has it. Seems like it is universal GM. Might check a junk yard.
06-08-2006, 02:03 AM
#10
Ok, I see what you are asking.
To get to that piece you need to pull a whole section of the column off. This section is the solid part that your multi-function switch is mounted to. That is the only way to get to this piece. I am going to steal someone's picture for a second. He is from LS1tech but the name slips me right now. Sorry, I just got off work. Tired.
Anyways.... this is what you need to remove
Do you see the plastic shell? Fun times. You can remove the part behind the stick since it is just a push in. Might as well do that first. But the whole outter shell is a little more difficult.
You need to remove:
Airbag module from behind the steering wheel.
Unplug the airbag connector but always use a screwdriver to get the safety plug out first so you don't break the connector. No need to disconnect the battery. Just wait 10 seconds after you remove the key.
Disconnect steering wheel controls.
Twist and pull out horn connector. DONT DONT BREAK THIS!
Wheel
Pull the snap ring for the clockwork spring. Easy. Unplug clockwork spring from the botton of the column and give it some slack. You may have to remove a plastic piece from under the botton of the column under the dash to snake up some slack.
After you get the CW spring out of the way, push down on the locking ring (very hard), pull its snap ring.
Remove the horn cam/horn connector piece.
There is a connector from the turn signal cam to the turn signal you have to remove. Easy phillips screw.
Remove torx bolts for turn signal cam.
Remove the lock cylinder bolt and pull it out of the column being careful not to hurt the orange wire. I taped it on to the column after getting some slack. You break that wire you can't start the car.
I skipped some stuff but I don't remember it all.
After that the outter shell will come out. It is held in itself by three large torx screws. Undo those and keep pressure on the bottom part of the column that doesn't come off.
Pull off the outter shell and slightly pull down on the part still on the column after the shell is out of the way. This is the part that goes around the tilt wheel lever by the way! The part you want is in there. Should have yucky grease all over it. Have fun.
It WILL fall out when you put the column together if you are not watching.
To get to that piece you need to pull a whole section of the column off. This section is the solid part that your multi-function switch is mounted to. That is the only way to get to this piece. I am going to steal someone's picture for a second. He is from LS1tech but the name slips me right now. Sorry, I just got off work. Tired.
Anyways.... this is what you need to remove
Do you see the plastic shell? Fun times. You can remove the part behind the stick since it is just a push in. Might as well do that first. But the whole outter shell is a little more difficult.
You need to remove:
Airbag module from behind the steering wheel.
Unplug the airbag connector but always use a screwdriver to get the safety plug out first so you don't break the connector. No need to disconnect the battery. Just wait 10 seconds after you remove the key.
Disconnect steering wheel controls.
Twist and pull out horn connector. DONT DONT BREAK THIS!
Wheel
Pull the snap ring for the clockwork spring. Easy. Unplug clockwork spring from the botton of the column and give it some slack. You may have to remove a plastic piece from under the botton of the column under the dash to snake up some slack.
After you get the CW spring out of the way, push down on the locking ring (very hard), pull its snap ring.
Remove the horn cam/horn connector piece.
There is a connector from the turn signal cam to the turn signal you have to remove. Easy phillips screw.
Remove torx bolts for turn signal cam.
Remove the lock cylinder bolt and pull it out of the column being careful not to hurt the orange wire. I taped it on to the column after getting some slack. You break that wire you can't start the car.
I skipped some stuff but I don't remember it all.
After that the outter shell will come out. It is held in itself by three large torx screws. Undo those and keep pressure on the bottom part of the column that doesn't come off.
Pull off the outter shell and slightly pull down on the part still on the column after the shell is out of the way. This is the part that goes around the tilt wheel lever by the way! The part you want is in there. Should have yucky grease all over it. Have fun.
It WILL fall out when you put the column together if you are not watching.
06-08-2006, 02:25 AM
#11
great sounds like another adventure just like my drivers side door.. (motor and scissors rivets all fell out and it dug into the fiberglass.. so me and my dad had to build a metal backing plate so it would stay in the correct place) 
anyways I cant get the wheel out we have a OEM puller I got from autozone and whenever we tighten it the middle thing just wants to slip off, we'v tryed over and over.. I have the whole 1996 column out sittng on the floor so anything it takes shouldnt be a problem... the only reason im doing the whole switch is someone said the clock springs arnt the same from the 94 > 96 wheel and my 94 tilt area has about 2-3 inches of play when i pull down on it
thanks for all the responses guys!
anyways I cant get the wheel out we have a OEM puller I got from autozone and whenever we tighten it the middle thing just wants to slip off, we'v tryed over and over.. I have the whole 1996 column out sittng on the floor so anything it takes shouldnt be a problem... the only reason im doing the whole switch is someone said the clock springs arnt the same from the 94 > 96 wheel and my 94 tilt area has about 2-3 inches of play when i pull down on it
thanks for all the responses guys!
06-08-2006, 02:37 AM
#12
I know the feeling.
I have a 1999 used CW spring that I would just give you if it would help. Don't think it will but I don't want it. It doesn't have steering wheel controls though. If you want I can get the part # off it. They are over 100 from the dealer new.
That is funny the puller won't work. Mine set right in the middle of the shaft as the shaft has that large indent in it.
Maybe you could try putting the nut from the steering wheel back on with only a couple of threads ... and use it to help keep the puller centered. The nut could stick up far enough from the shaft to give the puller a bigger area?
I have a 1999 used CW spring that I would just give you if it would help. Don't think it will but I don't want it. It doesn't have steering wheel controls though. If you want I can get the part # off it. They are over 100 from the dealer new.
That is funny the puller won't work. Mine set right in the middle of the shaft as the shaft has that large indent in it.
Maybe you could try putting the nut from the steering wheel back on with only a couple of threads ... and use it to help keep the puller centered. The nut could stick up far enough from the shaft to give the puller a bigger area?
06-08-2006, 09:23 AM
#13
Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
I know the feeling.
I have a 1999 used CW spring that I would just give you if it would help. Don't think it will but I don't want it. It doesn't have steering wheel controls though. If you want I can get the part # off it. They are over 100 from the dealer new.
That is funny the puller won't work. Mine set right in the middle of the shaft as the shaft has that large indent in it.
Maybe you could try putting the nut from the steering wheel back on with only a couple of threads ... and use it to help keep the puller centered. The nut could stick up far enough from the shaft to give the puller a bigger area?
I have a 1999 used CW spring that I would just give you if it would help. Don't think it will but I don't want it. It doesn't have steering wheel controls though. If you want I can get the part # off it. They are over 100 from the dealer new.
That is funny the puller won't work. Mine set right in the middle of the shaft as the shaft has that large indent in it.
Maybe you could try putting the nut from the steering wheel back on with only a couple of threads ... and use it to help keep the puller centered. The nut could stick up far enough from the shaft to give the puller a bigger area?
06-08-2006, 04:01 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by Gun5
do i still have to remove the wheel to get to those pieces?
06-08-2006, 05:52 PM
#17
well brought it to my mechanic today, he told me he's pulled fbody wheels before and its the biggest pita ever I actauly bent my OEM puller this morning trying todo it again , they are made to be temper proof because the airbag components and other ****.. i wish I could just change the wheel itself.. and find out how to tighten the bolts behind the titl lever because it is a PITA
06-09-2006, 01:06 AM
#18
well i got the colum in the house finally and got to pulling on the plastic pieces and got that whole cover piece off over the lever.. and this big plastic piece fell out.. the left/right signals still work so i assume this is a highbeam piece?
hm is that second metal rod going down the side of the column for hibeams I know th top is for ignition
hm is that second metal rod going down the side of the column for hibeams I know th top is for ignition
