Chris99WS6PWTMET

Just installed a set on Friday. Very easy install. A few key points of interest:

1. On drivers side you need to remove steering arm joint and oil diverter neck prior to sliding header in.
2. Drivers side O2 bung not in the 'best' position, it puts the sensor VERY close (if not right on) heat shield covering brake and fuel lines.
3. Gaskets that Hooker supplies SUCK!! They cover up almost 1/4 inch of the primary tubes - use your stock gaskets.
4. Bolts that Hooker supplies SUCK TOO!! They only grab about 3-4 threads and stripped with minimal torque applied. We swapped in the stock bolts with no problems.

Aside from the above deficiencies, they fit nicely and we had no rubbing issues whatsoever.

<small>[ March 09, 2003, 09:10 PM: Message edited by: Chris99WS6PWTMET ]</small>

mean machine ws6

JUST RECIEVED MY HOOKERS THIS WEEEK WITH OFF ROAD Y PIPE, CUT OUTS, O2 SIMMS. I LOOKED AROUND FOR A SHOP TO INSTALL THEM BUT THEY WANTED 400$ PLUS, SO I GUESS I WILL BE DOING THEM MYSELF----CAN YOU GUYS HELP OUT?- WITH THE MONEY I SAVE I WILL GET THE PREDATOR--ARRRGHH ARRGHHH <img border="0" alt="[shoot]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

<small>[ March 09, 2003, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: mean machine ws6 ]</small>

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

they are very easy to install. there was a write up on it last year. search the external engine archives.

you have to remove the steering linkage and you might as well remove the oil filter and change the oil cause you need that extra space too. took longer for me to remove the old stuff than to put on the new

Chris

Bitchin LS-1

You will also have to get the car up way up in the air per side to allow enough room to sneak the headers in and have the collector to drop far enough for you to be able to get past some tight spots on the k member and engine block

NickMapleT/A

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Chris99WS6PWTMET:
<strong> Just installed a set on Friday. Very easy install. A few key points of interest:

1. On drivers side you need to remove steering arm joint and oil diverter neck prior to sliding header in.
2. Drivers side O2 bung not in the 'best' position, it puts the sensor VERY close (if not right on) heat shield covering brake and fuel lines.
3. Gaskets that Hooker supplies SUCK!! They cover up almost 1/4 inch of the primary tubes - use your stock gaskets.
4. Bolts that Hooker supplies SUCK TOO!! They only grab about 3-4 threads and stripped with minimal torque applied. We swapped in the stock bolts with no problems.

Aside from the above deficiencies, they fit nicely and we had no rubbing issues whatsoever. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah!!!! What he said...

Fast SS on TNT

iTrader: (1)

Ditto on what he said too.

I used stock gaskets...though I did buy some brand new ones, and stock bolts. Luckily, I had access to a lift, but it can be done on the ground with a very, very good jack to get it up in the air. The O2 sensor on the drivers side was a major pain in the azz. We had to notch out the heat shield and move the two lines up about 1/2" or so. The steering joint wasn't to bad to unbolt, just be damn sure not to go moving the steering wheel, or front tires. The oil diverter took about 30 seconds to remove...remember to be clean about it, and keep that are free from any contamination.
*Note* why you have the manifolds out, take out your spark plugs! Breaking a spark plug sucks, and once the headers in bleeding knuckles and all, why not replace the old sparky's with new ones. Be careful, take your time, and READ the directions!
It took me and a buddy about 8 hours with a lift. That includes nicotine breaks, alot of cursing (damn broken spark plug!) and beer breaks. Plus, the wife calling, bathroom breaks, answering cell phones (when your hands are full) and running for more beer.
I was very intimidated about doing the install, till I realized it took exactly 2 hours to have the manifolds out, the exhaust removed, and still had a 4 beers left out of a 6 pack. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

mean machine ws6

thanks for the help- i'll be installing them sat. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

SSTYCOON

iTrader: (2)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by mean machine ws6:
<strong> thanks for the help- i'll be installing them sat. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">and sunday

BlueSS

Hey guy's I've been looking into these Hooker longtube headers I found them in t-byrne.com and in summit t-byrne says they are 1 3/4 but summit says they are 1 5/8 so wut are they? or are they available in both diameters??? Oh and where do ya'll get them at??? damn thas a lot of questions... please help <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

<small>[ March 13, 2003, 07:22 PM: Message edited by: BlueSS ]</small>

Johns98Z28

Got my Hooker LT's from Jet Hot. I think they were around $530 shipped to my door, if I remember correctly. The headers are Super Comps which are 1 3/4" primaries.

BlueSS

Thanx John, I appreciate ur response... I'm not familiar with Jet Hot though so how do I get a hold of them... and were ur's ceramic coated for $530.00???

99 SS Volant cold air induction, 80mm BBK TB, 1" poweraid TB spacer,HPPIII,HP 160 stat, accel 300+ race wires and Bosch +4 plugs,transgo shift kit w/vette sirvo,3:73 gears,flowmaster exhaust w/cutout, and all free mods...
Spokane Wa. track before transgo shift kit
13.15 @ 108.6 60ft 1.91
Edingburg Tx. track after transgo shift kit
13.20 @ 107.8 60ft 1.83
I had less top end in texas I think it was due to difference in elevation... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Roadrunner 45

iTrader: (1)

Ditto on the lousy location of the driver's header bung- looks like my o2 wiring will be pinched after install. I am in the middle of doing a cam/header/converter/true duals install and will fix the location problem by welding in a new bung on the opposite side of the collector and plugging the old one. A new bung was $5.99 from Summit, and if you don't have a welder, drill the hole for the new bung location and I'm sure any muffler shop would weld it in for you for under $20.
Also- when removing the steering linkage, the Helms manual states that the wheels need to be pointed straight forward or the airbag system can be affected. I'm not quite sure what will happen if they're not, but it's a simple precaution.