FredoCamaro

iTrader: (18)

http://www.speedspecialty.com/store/...product=rotors


What do you guys think about these... for a set of 4 they are $199

Are these crappy or just a good deal?

ec_nova

iTrader: (5)

i bet by the time you add the drilled/slotted option and the custom color option it won't be a good deal anymore. plus those are for a 98-02

harvickgm

iTrader: (10)

im pretty sure those are the same ones i got.. the guy is a great guy to work with.. i got 93-97 rears and 98-02 fronts... i had a chip in one when i got them and he sent me another one right out.. looks good, have yet to put them one due to i havent got all the stuff to finish the LS1 brake conversion...

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I have heard that Drilled Rotors have a problem cracking...

Ls1Bait

yea that is what i heard also......slotted are good tho

FredoCamaro

iTrader: (18)

I have the ls1 brake conversion all around ....it looks like those are just different options all for the same price since I only saw on price there


I was just wandering since they are only 50 bucks a rotor if they would be better then just replace the old ones with stock rotors???

harvickgm

iTrader: (10)

this guy states that he has spaced them out far enough so they shouldnt have enough pressure on each drill hole to crack... but like i said i have yet to get mine on so i cant say fro sure...

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I have the LS1 Big Brakes also, but I would get slotted, not drilled. Slotted would help more than holes would.

FredoCamaro

iTrader: (18)

what about drilled and slotted

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

yea they might crack if the guy doing the drilling is just drilling and not thinking where the hole is going, but still they have a tendency to crack because of thermal stress on the metal, if they are running really hot and lets say its raining and they get splashed they could crack

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Slotted is what I would do. It would work fine for on the street.

98_Formula

iTrader: (15)

do they charge extra for the color?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

You are talking about the Calipers I assume. I got mine for $150, straight off of a wrecked Trans Am, so they were factory. If you get color, then someone painted them. As far as something like Wildwood, then you are going to pay for color.

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

Go for the dimpled/slotted ones. It's the best of both worlds. The only reason people go to drilled rotors in the first place is because they can be found on exotic cars like Lambo's and Ferrari's. They want "the look." However, Lambo and Ferrari don't engineer their cars to stand the test of high mileage, and choose parts that offer extreme performance in small doses. (Lamborghini even states that the engines they build only have a life expectancy of 12,000 miles.)

I don't care how "strategically placed" the makers of these rotors say the holes are, simple metallurgy debunks any claim that heat cycling 1,000's of times during normal everyday driving won't affect their durability over the long haul. At least with a dimple, the cut into the surface is no deeper than what a slot is, and therefore leaves more mass in the rotor than if a hole was drilled all the way through. Mass=strength, and you get "the look." Hell if you're ambitious enough, you could break out a detail paintbrush and paint all the dimples black to make it look like they're holes.

FredoCamaro

iTrader: (18)

wow, I had no idea that the drilled rotors are weaker then non drilled but then again I am new to this... and you are right I do just want them because they will look cool with my bigger rims..... You guys are making it out like all drilled rotors will snap like a tooth pick? Have a lot of you had problems with this? What is the life expectancy of a drilled rotor?

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Drilled Rotors are for show. With the miles my car gets lately I decided to show off some..


Not Pictured was the work I finished tonight. Baer Bump Steer kit and re-mounted Brake lines

FredoCamaro

iTrader: (18)

That's hot! What brand are your rotors?

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

This gives a pretty good explanation of what's going on:

"Rotors were originally drilled to eliminate something known as "green fade". The best way to explain "Green fade" is to relate it to an air hockey table. The puck is suspended on a cushion of air that prevents it from touching the table, this reduces the friction between the puck and the table.

A long time ago, pads were made with the best resins we had available. Many of those resins would produce gas as they cured. When a pad was used the first few times, the heat would "cure" the resin which would cause it to produce vapors. This was known as "out gassing". The vapors would build up between the pad and the rotor and lift or "force" the pad away from the rotor (like the puck in air hockey). This caused the brakes to be very ineffective, even though they were not yet at the maximum rated operating temperature. The holes were drilled to allow that gas a place to escape. So, it is correct to say that rotors were cross drilled to eliminate fade, but not for the reasons you would think. The good news is that today's resins no longer suffer from these problem and the modern race pads are so good that this is really no longer an issue. So, by cross drilling rotors, you will only manage to shorten the lifespan of that rotor (it now has less surface area to wear against the brake pad and will wear more quickly as well as a reduction in weight that will cause the brakes to operate at a higher temperature).

Another problem with cross drilled rotors is the potential for cracking around the holes. The holes become a stress point in the cast iron that can more readily allow cracks to form in the rotor surface. This requires that you pay close attention to the rotor surface for signs of cracking. Some small cracks, known as "surface checking" are acceptable, but anything that resembles a crack would be a reason to replace that rotor. When looking at slotted rotors keep in mind that the slots should not be milled off of the edge of the rotor. This is a great place for cracks to form, and they will. The slot should be ball milled in the rotor face and originate and terminate on the surface of the rotor without exiting the rotors edge. The goal is to eliminate sharp edges that cause stress risers on the rotor surface. This will reduce the possibility of cracking. If you see slotted rotors with slots that are milled off the edge of the rotor, shop for another brand. Slots that are not cut through the edge of the rotor are a good sign that the manufacturer of that rotor knows what they are doing. This is a good indicator of parts made by a brake company and not a machine shop that happens to drill and slot rotors.

Many years ago, when I ordered my first brake kit from Baer Racing, they told me that drilled rotors would typically last 20% less than an equivalent solid rotor. This was why they always recommended solid rotors for extreme use. Baer has changed their stance on this since discovering there was a large amount of money to be made selling "Eradispeeds" (they are very pretty brake rotors). This change in their marketing strategy has caused me to feel that they have gone from "supporting the racing community" to "making maximum money". And, I guess I can't blame them....."

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...drilled+rotors

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Damn, throw him a book.. lol

98_Formula

iTrader: (15)

i was referring to the rotors in the link on the first post... they say they can have em "painted" does anyone have those with stock 16" rims, i wonder if you would even see it... looks like a good deal tho cuz i priced out stock rotors and the cheapest i could get a set of four was for $148 and they had to be ordered ne ways...

so has anyone dealt with the company in the link,? i'm just curious as to there c/s and shipping time.