Is this a streetable cam?
06-19-2006, 03:57 AM
#1
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Is this a streetable cam? I know everyone has a different opinion on what streetable is, but I'm also wondering what kind of gains should I expect to see with LT headers and Stage 2 heads? Thanks for any help...
what car do you have.
06-19-2006, 04:43 AM
#3
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The GM Hot cam isn't a bad cam but it's pretty tame and unless you are needing to stick FULLY emissions legal to the stricist letter of the law I'd probably look else where.
Also what heads are you looking at? Stage 2 is a little vague as heads can vary quite a bit.
The Hot cam will give the motor a new edge and a more agressive idle but it won't totally transform the car.
Personally I'd look at something a little more racey. Thunder Racing offer some nice cams, a good starting place IMO is the TR224/224 is should still be pretty tame and suitable as a DD for just about anyone interested in cars but without any real negative affects. But it'll still make power, couple it together with some AFR heads and rwhp should be very nice indeed.
Or if you want something more out there just go cam only on one of the wilder setups, idle will be rougher, low rpms won't be as smooth and you'll get the noticable feeling of the motor coming "on-cam" but it will make very good power. Something like the Trak cam from Thunder Racing would be considered one of the more extreme cams but many still daily drive such setups.
Also worth a look is Texas Speed & Performance, they offer some great value packages. They have a nice range of cams, including some new ones just released. The MS4 is likely to be a beast, but would make a great street/track racer. Also their LS6 CNC ported heads are great value for money, not as good as the AFR's but then they are a lot cheaper
What car do you have and mods (if any)?
Basics to include on a cammed or h/c setup should be full exhaust, headers, high flow cats if you are running them, lid or CAI, stock ported TB and a LS6 intake manifold. Many of these items you could "upgrade" but consider this as the entry level point. Is your car auto or manual? If auto you'll be wanting a stall, probably around 3500rpm as a starting point, I'd check out Fuddle Racing and/or Yank Converters. You may also want to think about changing your final dirve ratio gears, auto's tend to go for 3.42, 3.73 or sometimes 4.10 and M6 cars 4.10's.
Also, LS2 timing chain, ported LS6 oil pump and cam install kit with the correct grade of springs are all needed. Plus a TUNE!
Also what heads are you looking at? Stage 2 is a little vague as heads can vary quite a bit.
The Hot cam will give the motor a new edge and a more agressive idle but it won't totally transform the car.
Personally I'd look at something a little more racey. Thunder Racing offer some nice cams, a good starting place IMO is the TR224/224 is should still be pretty tame and suitable as a DD for just about anyone interested in cars but without any real negative affects. But it'll still make power, couple it together with some AFR heads and rwhp should be very nice indeed.
Or if you want something more out there just go cam only on one of the wilder setups, idle will be rougher, low rpms won't be as smooth and you'll get the noticable feeling of the motor coming "on-cam" but it will make very good power. Something like the Trak cam from Thunder Racing would be considered one of the more extreme cams but many still daily drive such setups.
Also worth a look is Texas Speed & Performance, they offer some great value packages. They have a nice range of cams, including some new ones just released. The MS4 is likely to be a beast, but would make a great street/track racer. Also their LS6 CNC ported heads are great value for money, not as good as the AFR's but then they are a lot cheaper
What car do you have and mods (if any)?
Basics to include on a cammed or h/c setup should be full exhaust, headers, high flow cats if you are running them, lid or CAI, stock ported TB and a LS6 intake manifold. Many of these items you could "upgrade" but consider this as the entry level point. Is your car auto or manual? If auto you'll be wanting a stall, probably around 3500rpm as a starting point, I'd check out Fuddle Racing and/or Yank Converters. You may also want to think about changing your final dirve ratio gears, auto's tend to go for 3.42, 3.73 or sometimes 4.10 and M6 cars 4.10's.
Also, LS2 timing chain, ported LS6 oil pump and cam install kit with the correct grade of springs are all needed. Plus a TUNE!
Last edited by 300bhp/ton; 06-19-2006 at 04:57 AM.
06-19-2006, 07:04 AM
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i would suggest something like the 224 also.the hot cam is better than stock and will have a great idle but you can get a slightly bigger cam to still pass emissions and make even more power and sound fairly tame.
06-19-2006, 11:36 AM
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Well, I have a place I can go to "pass" emissions no matter what so that's not a problem. The car is a 98' Z28, M6, ported & polished heads, ZO6 manifold, pacesetter ceramic LT. How much more of a gain would I see with the TR224 instead of the hotcam? The only reason I don't want to go with an aggressive cam like the trak cam is I don't want to be too noticeable to the cops... Thanks for your guys help so far!
06-19-2006, 11:44 AM
#7
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With a good tune it would drive nice enough for my mother to use it everyday.
If you want power go with something different. The above mentioned TR224 is a great place to start. I suggest a TR224 on a 114 LSA with a good tune.
*If you don't want an aggressive cam (I assume you mean no lope) so as to avoid extra attention from the police you do not want the Hotcam anyway.
If you want power go with something different. The above mentioned TR224 is a great place to start. I suggest a TR224 on a 114 LSA with a good tune.
*If you don't want an aggressive cam (I assume you mean no lope) so as to avoid extra attention from the police you do not want the Hotcam anyway.
Last edited by blkZ28spt; 06-19-2006 at 12:02 PM.
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06-19-2006, 12:50 PM
#8
Originally Posted by slow trap
i would suggest something like the 224 also.the hot cam is better than stock and will have a great idle but you can get a slightly bigger cam to still pass emissions and make even more power and sound fairly tame.
06-19-2006, 06:03 PM
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So your saying the TR224 will less lope/ smoother idle than the hotcam and produce the same power? So then basically their only difference is lope?
06-19-2006, 06:55 PM
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yes, you will have more power with a 224 cam or 228 and it will be well worth an extra 100 bucks.either one will be fairly tame on a 114,my 228 was on a 112 +2 and was pretty noticeable but on a 114 with the idle set around 950 or so shouldn't be quite as bad.i would say hit up the search to find some cam only numbers but i just tried and it didn't work 
06-19-2006, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by toofazt
So your saying the TR224 will less lope/ smoother idle than the hotcam and produce the same power? So then basically their only difference is lope?
You will need to replace the valvesprings more often, though. Figure 20-25k miles or so.
06-20-2006, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SSDoubleK
That cam is old school, there is so much more available...
