Clutch Problems - Help Please
06-19-2006, 10:53 AM
#1
Clutch Problems - Help Please I'm having some problems with my clutch. This morning was the worst it's been, having to try crawling through traffic. It seems like it's the master cylinder, because I'll hold the clutch pedal down for period, but then it's engaging right off the floor. It's gotten so bad that there was one time where it wouldn't go into gear until I pumped up the pedal.
So, is that a bad master or slave? Could it be both? I don't have a problem changing the master, but the slave requires removing the transmission; not my favorite thing to do.
What's everybody think?
Brian
So, is that a bad master or slave? Could it be both? I don't have a problem changing the master, but the slave requires removing the transmission; not my favorite thing to do.
What's everybody think?
Brian
06-20-2006, 09:54 AM
#7
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Sorry for the length of this, but I think it is relavent to your plight.
A year ago, my clutch was slipping terribly. I had the clutch replaced and had the transmission rebuilt with an overhaul kit, kevlar sealing rings, bushings, seals, gaskets, thrust washers, fiber clutches, and steel clutches. The invoice also reads: "Rebuilt clutch packs and valve body". I was told the clutch master cylinder was leaking out of the end seal and the slave cylinder leaking out of the front seal.
They replaced the slave cylinder but only the leaking seal in the master, put in the new clutch and throw out bearing, and all was well. However, I could feel the clutch engaging at a lower point than before and the take up MUCH quicker, but I just chalked it up to the upgraded clutch and adjusted my driving habits.
About a month ago I started having the clutch pedal "stick to the floor" if I kept the clutch disengaged (pedal depressed) for more than about 10 or 15 seconds. I would literally have to put my foot under the pedal and pull it back out before it would work again. I could not shift gears until I got it pulled out and depressed the pedal again.
I took it back in for the warranty work and was told it was the clutch was failing again. I told them I disagreed, that it sounded like the hydrolic system, but what could I do? They pulled the existing clutch (11 months and 8,000 miles old) and put in a new one. SAME problem.
So, I took it back in and told them to check the hydrolics. This time they discovered that the clutch master cylinder had a leaking internal seal (not sure what the inside of the cylinder looks like) and theorized that the new, stong seals in the slave cylinder replaced a year ago placed stress on the old seal of the master and caused failure.
Bottom line: they replaced the master cylinder and all is well. Normal take up and it begins at the right place. Moral of the story? If you're going to replace the master or the slave, it might be in your best interest to replace the other, as well, as seal failure might not be far behind if you don't.
BTW, my '00 SS had a relatively low 30,000 miles on it at the time.
Hope that helps...
A year ago, my clutch was slipping terribly. I had the clutch replaced and had the transmission rebuilt with an overhaul kit, kevlar sealing rings, bushings, seals, gaskets, thrust washers, fiber clutches, and steel clutches. The invoice also reads: "Rebuilt clutch packs and valve body". I was told the clutch master cylinder was leaking out of the end seal and the slave cylinder leaking out of the front seal.
They replaced the slave cylinder but only the leaking seal in the master, put in the new clutch and throw out bearing, and all was well. However, I could feel the clutch engaging at a lower point than before and the take up MUCH quicker, but I just chalked it up to the upgraded clutch and adjusted my driving habits.
About a month ago I started having the clutch pedal "stick to the floor" if I kept the clutch disengaged (pedal depressed) for more than about 10 or 15 seconds. I would literally have to put my foot under the pedal and pull it back out before it would work again. I could not shift gears until I got it pulled out and depressed the pedal again.
I took it back in for the warranty work and was told it was the clutch was failing again. I told them I disagreed, that it sounded like the hydrolic system, but what could I do? They pulled the existing clutch (11 months and 8,000 miles old) and put in a new one. SAME problem.
So, I took it back in and told them to check the hydrolics. This time they discovered that the clutch master cylinder had a leaking internal seal (not sure what the inside of the cylinder looks like) and theorized that the new, stong seals in the slave cylinder replaced a year ago placed stress on the old seal of the master and caused failure.
Bottom line: they replaced the master cylinder and all is well. Normal take up and it begins at the right place. Moral of the story? If you're going to replace the master or the slave, it might be in your best interest to replace the other, as well, as seal failure might not be far behind if you don't.
BTW, my '00 SS had a relatively low 30,000 miles on it at the time.Hope that helps...
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06-20-2006, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BAD2000TA
Thank you for your reply. It does help. The internal debate is whether to just fix what's broken, or go and buy a LS7 clutch kit while the transmission is out.
