slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

I tried posting this in the tuning section but I think you guy's may have come across this already. I have already done a search. I have a 1998 Z28. Sometimes my car won't start when they call me up to the staging lanes. Sometimes it will, sometimes it won't start. I have missed elimination rounds due to this problem and want this problem fixed for good. I have the pro version of hp tuners. I have a stock 98 LS1, a TH400. On the editor I changed the System/General/Security - VATS to NONE. From what I have read this should totally disable the VATS. But I also have read in the (VCM suite help) that It does not disable the actual tests. So what the hell does it do then. I could care less if a security light is on my dash. I want the VATS to stop that test so it will start my car. What happens is the fuel pump pumps when I turn the key to the on position, then I go to turn the key to start the car and it won't crank at all. I see that the security light is on and the SES light is on. I scan it and there are no DTC's. About a month ago I changed some DTC's to Option 3- no errors reported. I thought that was suppost to delete that code. The one I deleted was P1626. I have run out of ideas. I thought I had it fixed when I changed the vats option to none. Guess not. What do I do next? I thought it might be a broken wire in the steering column so I cut the wire at the bottom of the steering column and put in the appropriate resistor. I thought that might have fixed it but that stupid security light came back a few days later. Anyways I have a National event coming up this weekend and would like to have it fixed before then. Any suggestions.

by the way this problem has always happened even before i bought a HP tuners.

The factory theft system has physically been removed from the car. Don't know if this helps or not.

aram

iTrader: (7)

If it won't crank it probably isn't the vats. Check to see if the neutral safety or clutch switch is having problems.

You can always wire in a push button start to the starter relay that just goes through the NSS or clutch switch and then you shouldn't ever have it not let you crank. Or heck just take the wire that is sending the signal off the NSS or clutch switch and send it directly to the starter relay. Get out the manual and look for the path that the key signal takes to get to the starter relay and you should find your problem!!

Next time it wont crank you know you can make it crank by jumping the 87 and 30 terminals on the relay with a thick wire and just pull the wire when you want it to stop cranking.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

It seems like when I wiggle some wires under the dash something must wiggle it's way to a good connection cause that seems to do the trick sometimes. I had a look under there and I can't see any loose connections or any wires that are grounding out. I can't think of what it is. Where is the relay for the starter located and what does it look like about how big is it. I don't really want to rely on wiggling wires to try and start my car. any help would be massively appreciated. Thanks

aram

iTrader: (7)

i sent you a pm.. the starter relay is in one of the underhood fuseboxes on the driver side.. i would just get a pushbutton bypass hooked up before the neutral safety switch or clutch switch and forget about it.