160 thermo temp swing, tell me what the
06-23-2006, 12:28 AM
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160 thermo temp swing, tell me what the hell im doing is this ok to run from 170 to 185 then have the fan cool it
back to 170 then it goes off the reheat it self to 185 again . temp at
thermo is like 163 with temp gun on hose and about 170 at upper
levels of cooling system.. and night time temp at 70 degrees...
back to 170 then it goes off the reheat it self to 185 again . temp at
thermo is like 163 with temp gun on hose and about 170 at upper
levels of cooling system.. and night time temp at 70 degrees...
06-23-2006, 08:28 AM
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It's peculiar that you have a temp oscillation like that.
It should be short-term stable though it will deflect
under load / airflow changes. I'd try "burping" it first,
you may have some air in there that isolates it from
the "real" coolant temp until things overshoot a lot.
I also like to drill a tiny (like 3/32") hole in the 'stat
plate just to let any such bubble pass.
It should be short-term stable though it will deflect
under load / airflow changes. I'd try "burping" it first,
you may have some air in there that isolates it from
the "real" coolant temp until things overshoot a lot.
I also like to drill a tiny (like 3/32") hole in the 'stat
plate just to let any such bubble pass.
06-23-2006, 10:34 AM
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my 160 stats have always run b/w 170-185 in TX weather. 185 sitting at the light obviously, 170 while cruising at highway speeds, I think your fan settings are a little ambitious, you want the fans to come on at the point where the motor is starting to get hotter than you'd like. I've found that mid 170s to mid 180s is a pretty good operating temp range as far as keeping fans working minimally for daily driving and performancwise. I have mine set as such: FAN 1 ON 188, FAN 2 ON 191 BOTH FANS OFF 183 Keep in mind this is for summer weather (90+ degrees everday), the fans click on only when sitting at the light, otherwise moving air temps keep me in my range. If you are measuring temps when you are just sitting, this is when you will run hottest, and without any air moving through the radiator, your t-stat is already open and the coolant is just heating up until it gets to the threshold where your fans kick in to cool it back down.
The fans are keyed off the ECT sensor at the top of the head, which is pretty much at the end of the stream and thus the hottest point. The coolant there will rarely reach 170 or below, I've only managed to dip into the 160s at highway speeds with ambient temps below 60 degrees. So use your software to find what kind of operating range your vehicle sees, and set your fans to come on just slightly higher than the tall end, and off in the middle of your range, their job is just to keep you in that range. I also understand the desire for cooler temps when racing, in which case you should just install a manual switch that way when you're staging to race, you can have the fans keeping you cool as you need to be. As for all other type driving, sounds like the way you have it set puts alot of stress on the fans since they will excessively be on, even after you've been moving from a stop for a short time.
The fans are keyed off the ECT sensor at the top of the head, which is pretty much at the end of the stream and thus the hottest point. The coolant there will rarely reach 170 or below, I've only managed to dip into the 160s at highway speeds with ambient temps below 60 degrees. So use your software to find what kind of operating range your vehicle sees, and set your fans to come on just slightly higher than the tall end, and off in the middle of your range, their job is just to keep you in that range. I also understand the desire for cooler temps when racing, in which case you should just install a manual switch that way when you're staging to race, you can have the fans keeping you cool as you need to be. As for all other type driving, sounds like the way you have it set puts alot of stress on the fans since they will excessively be on, even after you've been moving from a stop for a short time.