Conversions & Hybrids - Do I Have to cut the frame

I'm trying to install a 5.3 in my 67 Chevelle but have already shaved and painted the belly and firewall, also the frame has been painted as well. I originally set it up for an LT1 but have changed my mind. Now I am having trouble with the oil pan trying to clear the cross member. I am using S&P LS1 motor mount plates but no luck. Also my power steering pump is hitting the gear box. I guess what I am asking is any suggestions. I'm hoping i dont have to notch my frame or cut the trans tunnel since i already painted and put the two together.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h111/67lowrod/belly133.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h111/67lowrod/belly124.jpg

heres a shot of my 12 bolt with coil overs i have since installed it.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h111/67lowrod/malibu003.jpg

awsome setup man very nice, all i can think of is to clearance the oilpan if its hitting the frame, but im sure a few others can help u out more goodluck.

If you are running the S&P mounts then you probably need the S&P pan which is notched to clear the crossmember.

What stealth said. Nice looking swap! You probably need their combo kit. Ask Ollie he'll know. His SN is 67RScamaroVette or something like that.

I started the same way.. SBC and then switch to a LS1 after I Powder Coated my Frame and the other stuff. I know how you feel.

Not sure how much the frame/body is differnent from my 71', but I think they are close. 1) Try moving the Frame mounts, 2) Cutting/Notching the Pan or 3) use a Cad CTS-V oil pan (what I am using, and searching for other threads for other solutions). I am using BRP style plates. I moved my Frame mount by redrilling the holes to the location that centered the engine where it is needed. I also modified my frame mount by narrowing them 1/2" and used spacer to jack the engine back and fore to get the alternator pulley and Steering box spaced correctly. You can also try using spacers plates between the mount and plate to raise the engine if needed or remove them if using Energy Suspension mounts to lower. I started with both standard and the Tall/Narrow and used a combination of the mounts and plate to get all to clear. (I ended up using the Energy Suspension Tall and Narrow mount which raised the engine a bit to help clear but cause Trans tunnel and angle problem, so I had to cut the tunnel to raise the back up some). The other area you need to watch is the back of the right head, but from what your picture shows, no heater or a/c box, so you should be ok.

What trans are you using ?.. if it is a 4L80 or T56..... you most likely will have to cut the trans tunnel some. (I did for my T56) Other trans should be ok without cutting the tunnel.

Nice start of your project.

the trans I am using is a 4l60e, I got the complete package out of a 05 silverado, harness, ecm, tac and pedal. today i worked on it for about 8 hours i ended up lifting the body off of the frame and dropped the engine and trans in straight down and the pan cleared i ended up spacing the mounts up about 3/8 of an inch. everything seems to be clearing and the the crossmember for the trans i had already modified if for the lt1, one of the frame holes lined up so i drilled the other one. Also to my surprise the trans tunnel looks to be ok no modification needed. i'll try to post some pictures tomorrow. One more question, will the f-body manifolds work and clear my frame? The 5.3 manifolds dont even come close. I guess my other option would be to buy S&P headers, I'm open for any suggestions.

Where are the 5.3L manifolds hitting? Are they too wide? I believe that the f-body manifolds are narrower.

That good news on the Tunnel.. If I had a choice, I would not have cut mine.

You might try some F-Body LS1 Ex Manifolds.. I am using them and have no problem at all..I can even mount up the Cats (not that I am going too). The lower flange is a little close to the brake lines and P valve.

i ended up lifting the body off of the frame and dropped the engine and trans in straight down and the pan cleared i ended up spacing the mounts up about 3/8 of an inch. everything seems to be clearing and the the crossmember for the trans i had already modified if for the lt1, one of the frame holes lined up so i drilled the other one. Also to my surprise the trans tunnel looks to be ok no modification needed. i'll try to post some pictures tomorrow. One more question, will the f-body manifolds work and clear my frame? The 5.3 manifolds dont even come close. I guess my other option would be to buy S&P headers, I'm open for any suggestions.
The problem w/ the engine/trans not fitting in is because the engine is taller from the valve covers to the pan than an sbc or bbc I believe. In the future if you need to take things out, just install the engine and trans separately so you can drop the engine straight down instead of at an angle and you shouldn't have a problem. That's how I get my 6.0L/4L80E combo to fit. Also I don't know whether the F-body manifolds will fit, although I suspect they will since that is what others have used, but I'm only aware of it on a 70-72 chevelle, and only the driver's side was needed. Doesn't Hooker make a engine swap header for the 66-67 chevelles now (yep p/n 2289HKR)?

Also, make sure that your power steering pulley is going to clear the steering gear box...I didn't figure this out until I had my frame mounts tacked up, so I had to redo them :cry:

thanks for the info i'll look into the headers.

heres a few pictures of the engine mounted, i didnt have to cut the frame any. Just had to drill new holes. the 5.3 pan worked fine. and i got some f-body manifolds that fit with a little grinding.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h111/67lowrod/caprice001.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h111/67lowrod/caprice002.jpg

nice! switch to narrower manifolds, you'll be golden. I'm gonna be the first to ask, what color is the car?
olly

nice! switch to narrower manifolds, you'll be golden. I'm gonna be the first to ask, what color is the car?
olly
the color is pagan gold, its kandy. House of Kolor, i used the cinder red base coat with the pagan gold kandy over it. i get good deals with the painter, he's my brother.