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Took a 2002 Firebird WS6 for a test drive today, need opinions

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Old 06-26-2006, 10:54 PM
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Default Took a 2002 Firebird WS6 for a test drive today, need opinions

Spotted an 02 silver WS6 at a dealership on my way to work this morning, decided to go test it out afterwards.

Been looking for a new car, I don't know anything about the WS6 except that it's got 325 hp.


Car had 42k miles on it, I drove it for about 4 miles, there was some odd noises that I was hearing, seemed to be coming from under the middle of the car (below the console between the driver and passenger seat, more towards the rear of the car though)


While accelerating, the noise got really bad and then there was the sound of something breaking, lost all power to the wheels.

Stopped the car, engine is fine, I can put the car into any gear and let the clutch out and it does not move.


Called the dealer, had them pick me up and take me back.


Any ideas?

Should I stay away from the car even after they get it fixed?


I read something on these forums about people complaining about "10 bolt" and "weak rear ends", can I get some clarification on what that's all about?


I'm a 20 year old college student, I enjoy cars with a lot of power, I don't like imports. I really like the WS6, but I'm wondering if reliability is going to be an issue?


Thanks in advance.
Old 06-26-2006, 11:54 PM
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Sounds like the differential is toast... pretty typical for a M6 car that's been driven hard. I'd let them fix it and test drive it again before you made a decision on it.

Pretty sure that hp rating is higher for '02... it was 320 hp in '98.
Old 06-27-2006, 12:28 AM
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I agree, sounds like the rear end finally ate ****. Thats a common problem, and unfortunatly, there are gonna be problems like that when you start buying cars like this.

Since we you cant them new anymore, we have to hope the orginally owner took good car of it.

Go back and drive it once they fix it, and if you think you want it, make them throw in an extended warrany for free since they let you test drive a car that left you stranded.
Old 06-27-2006, 12:58 AM
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Thanks a lot for the replies.


How much does it usually cost to have the rear end fixed? If I buy the car I'll expect it to go out again in probably 60k miles, I don't beat cars, but I don't drive them exactly slow either.



Is this a car that I should steer way from if I don't want to be spending a lot of money repairing all of the time?
Old 06-27-2006, 01:30 AM
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you said middle of car, no?? I am guessing maybe a u-joint let loose??
Old 06-27-2006, 02:08 AM
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It sounded like it was under the console, but about a foot back.

I couldn't pinpoint it exactly, it went from a mildy annoying noise to a really damn loud noise before it busted.
Old 06-27-2006, 05:47 AM
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if you buy it get them to give you an extended warranty
Old 06-27-2006, 07:43 AM
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Is this a car that I should steer way from if I don't want to be spending a lot of money repairing all of the time?
any "sports" car is going to be more expensive to maintain then a regular car. with a more powerful engine the car is harder on parts to begin with, and when those things brake they are typically alittle more expensive then a "normal" car would be to fix.

if you drive the car like you stole it all the time, obviously your going to have some problems. if your alittle easyer on it, as long as the car is stock, it shouldnt really have many problems at all. starting moding that bitch and its gonna become a huge money pit, but, thats what you get into with these-and most-cars. but to be honest, you cant really expect to buy a fast car without at least alittle more maintance costs then a normal one (hell, i pay all of 10 dollars total for the wal-mart brand oil and filter for my 91 laser, and 40 dollars for the mobil 1 oil and filter for the firebird)

anyway, you asked about the 10 bolt and rear end, 10 bolt is the name of the rear end in the camaro's and firebird, and while not a "weak" rear end for a normal car, for a car with more horse power like a camaro or firebird, they do tend to brake when driven very hard. although, honestly, unless you have a total lemon of a rear end, in a stock car driven on the street, you shouldnt have to worry TOO much.

i think you should take someone who knows something about cars with you to look at the car, i doubt anyone on this board can give you a real answer or not, from your story its hard to say weather this was a freak accident from a bad u-joint or rear that you shouldnt worry about at all once its fixed, or, just the first thing to break on a car that was seriously abused by the privious owner.

hope i helped clear some things up
Old 06-27-2006, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DrEvyl
Sounds like the differential is toast... pretty typical for a M6 car that's been driven hard. I'd let them fix it and test drive it again before you made a decision on it.

Pretty sure that hp rating is higher for '02... it was 320 hp in '98.
He was correct, the 2002 WS6 was advertised at a rating of 325hp; only the SS Camaro opted w/SLP Dual Dual muffler and the Firehawk were rated higher at 345hp. Although the advertised rating WS6 (325hp) is low-balled it closer to 340-350hp at the crank.
Old 06-27-2006, 02:12 PM
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Definitely take someone who knows cars with you, after it’s fixed, just in chase something else is wrong!!
Old 06-27-2006, 02:29 PM
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Thats a good idea too. Test drive it to a trustworthy mechanic and let him give it the once over.

See if they'll let you drive it over night. I had my car 3 days before I decided I wanted to buy it.
Old 06-27-2006, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by my1973form
Although the advertised rating WS6 (325hp) is low-balled it closer to 340-350hp at the crank.
350-370 at crank sounds closer
Old 06-28-2006, 07:24 AM
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If I were you I would turn around and walk far far away I dont think you want to deal with the headache look elsewhere...
Old 06-28-2006, 10:41 AM
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Hello, new guy here, anything mechanical is going to break at some time, What worries me is the dealer, Who in their right mind would let you test drive the car with it making noises like that,,Unless you were gouging on it and the noise was new to your test drive.. Makes me nervous as what else might be wrong..either way..Really depends on what they are asking for the car and i think the suggestions of a warranty if you do buy it are very good... Russ
Old 06-28-2006, 12:02 PM
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These cars are pretty reliable considering the power they produce. I've gone through mine completely. It's easy to work on if you have a 100 pc tool kit and a little know-how. Doing minor repairs yourself will save huge money in the future.

On that noise you mentioned about the car not moving in any gear... could be clutch, tranny, or the driveshaft is not connected.

If it was the rear, the car would try to move, but it would be locked up, so it would only "lurch."

I think if the car is fixed you should be just fine with it. Get the warranty if you don't know how to do repairs yourself, and enjoy! ~Joshua
Old 06-28-2006, 02:50 PM
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Turns out that the driveline broke in half, and the torque something broke as well.

Back to looking I suppose, thanks everybody for the help.
Old 06-28-2006, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Grimery
Turns out that the driveline broke in half, and the torque something broke as well.

Back to looking I suppose, thanks everybody for the help.
The driveshaft probably came loose and took out the torque arm while it was slapping around.
Old 06-28-2006, 07:22 PM
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Correct me if i'm wrong here...did you say you put the clutch in but it won't move? Hmmm

And the sound you heard...was it a ticking sound? You said it was from the console...maybe it's the Slave Cylinder in the hydraulics of the clutch? I remember when I bought my car it was all fine and dandy then the Slave/Master Combo started going bad with the sound of the Throw-Out bearing going bad. Had to replace that...then my rear-end blew up....had to replace that as well as the posi....but everytime I start up this car....I have a retarded giddy smile on my face like a school boy.

Turn away from this car....but look at another one instead. Good Luck.



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