rorric

iTrader: (19)

well, I was hoping to pick my car up from EPP today. but Bob called this morning and they had it on the dyno and in 20 min it lost over a quart of oil. we called STS to see what the oil psi could be in the turbo because we put a SLP oil pump in it. an thay said stock psi so EPP put a restricted fitting in the line but that didnt work .any ideas

DrTurbo

iTrader: (3)

What size restrictor? Also if you run the turbo enough with oild blowing past the seals it will be pretty much toast and will need a new seal.

rorric

iTrader: (19)

they put a nos jet in it don't know the size they shut it down when it blow oil all over there dyno and the wall in the back.

ThaLS1KidII

iTrader: (7)

Yup, you are getting too much oil into the turbo. Put another jet in it or take out the one you have and run a smaller one. I ran two nitrous jets in mine, one at the beggining of the line and one right before the turbo. I have an alluminum turbo oil inlet with a built in restrictor in it. You can find them on Ebay.

Boodyrider

iTrader: (2)

Well, you and I shouldn't have to troubleshoot the install for the shop... but did they make sure the oil return pump is working?

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Here's my $0.02 that may help you:

If the car is blowing oil from the tailpipe, it's due to too much oil pressure (ie lack of return ability) in the turbo, not a lack of oil pressure to the turbo. The turbo does not have a "seal" per se separating the turbine from compressor/ oil galleries. It uses a ring design like a piston ring. When the pressure gets too much, the oil blows by the turbine rings and thus into the intake tract and the exhaust pipe. It is a VERY VERY rare instance for these to be bad or fail. I spoke with Billy at TRT Turbo several times while troubleshooting my oil blowby probs and he told me they had only one occurance ever of bad rings in the turbine being the problem.

Here are the possible/ probable sources of the problem:

Did the oil buzzer go off? If yes, look at the electrical connections for a ground, bad relay, short, or disconnect. (More info on relays below).

The check valve can be a source of problems. Physically remove it from the turbine and see if it drips. If so, it's bad. If you can blow air through it it's bad too.

Running the car with a dirty air filter will also cause it to suck oil into the intake

Check the electrical connectors on the T-taps and the connectors to the oil return pump. Lack of oil return or a block/restriction in the retun pump sounds like the real problem here. Is the return pump line to the valve cover clear of obstructions? (Check by blowing compressed air through it.) Are the t-tap connectors and connectors to the oil pump securely fastened? I had a problem with this and ended out soldering mine in place for security.

If the car is pushing oil, make sure your don't have oil on the MAF. That will murder your HP and screw up the long-term fuel trims, taking away even more HP. I ended out replacing the MAF and removing ALL the turbo pipes and cleaning them to remove residual oil. The pipe under the K-member is a magnet for retaining oil when you think everything is clean. The only way to get that one clean is to remove the pipe and then clean it. I bet if you have oil on the plugs it's on the MAF. Pull the elbow connecting the STS pipe to the throttle body. If you have oil there, then all the intake pipes are coated. The turbo is going to blow any oil through the whole system because of the positive boost. BTW, if $$ is an issue, you can carefully clean all the oil residue off the MAF using Q-tips and alcohol.

Last but not least if one of the relays (the two black square "boxes" attached to the wiring harness just past the in-line resistor) is bad, they will not send a signal to the oil pump to engage the high speed mode when operating under WOT and positive boost. The in-line resistor is limiting the voltage to let the pump run at low speed. The relay then flips to bypass the resistor when the pressure switch (installed near the computer) senses positive boost. This allows the pump to run at high speed. Believe it or not, most crappy local auto parts stores sell the relays if needed. This one is a bit of a long-shot, as when mine went bad (yes, I had multiple probs with my oil issues) it set off the oil buzzer.....but, you never know. The relay went bad because it was getting moisture on it when it rained. I relocated the relay and no issues now.

Lot of info, but I went through this pain-in-the -a$$ process only a few months ago. It took three months to finally get everything right and the car running oil-free all the time. Took another month to unscrew the computer tune and get the A/F back to what it should be. Car runs awsome as a result though

Persistence and a step-by-step approach will cure your prob.

I hope this helps and good luck.

Jammer

iTrader: (1)

Or you coulda wasted a turbo... but not to likely. Check to see if the turbo fins on the inlet side a very tight to the housing, or if theres a gap and some play in the wheel.
I was shown this defect in a rear turbo just yesterday...symptom...blew oil out tail pipe.

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

Thanks for saving alot of typing Phil.
Doubtful its got anything to do with the engine oil pump, rather an issue with the return.
One more thought is the polarity on the pump is sometimes reversed. Make sure the pump is pumping in the right direction. I doubt thats the issue though.
Check what was mentioned above. Nevermind, let EPP check.

ThaLS1KidII

iTrader: (7)

It deffinately could be that as well. If you scavange pump isn't working your turbo will fill up as well.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

We did all the normal troubleshooting items. Oil was returning to the valvecover just fine. We tried adding a pretty small nitrous jet as an added oil restrictor, but it didn't help. This is a used STS kit, although the turbo looked to be rebuilt and had no play in it when we installed it. We removed the turbo and it now has play in it. Everything else looked good, I would have to say the turbo was defective. Bob