New LS1 Owners - Newbie Tech - The LS1's legendary cold start tick




Jack M
07-07-2006, 01:28 PM
I've never seen any numbers, but quite a few LS1 engines have cold start tick noises attributable to dirty lifters, leaky exhaust manifolds, fuel injectors, oil pumps, air pumps, and piston slap. Correcting piston slap, if that's desired, is an expensive proposition, while the other problems can be repaired for much less cost.

Excepting piston slap, which arguably has been explained by GM, why is it that these problems - and the tick noise, show up on a great engine like the LS1? Is it design risk for the sake of performance? Or materials of production? Quality control?

The popular feeling seems to be that most LS1 tick noises are inherent, and just accept them. But other great engines, like Cadillac's Northstar, don't seem to have similar problems. Granted the Northstar is highly complex and more expensive than the LS1, but still, why the difference between the two, at least regarding the presence (or lack thereof) of tick noises?

I don't mean to start a war by making comparisons with other engines, but the above subject seems to have had a great deal of discussion in all of the Camaro, LS1, anf F-body forums - but not much resolution.

What do you guys think?

Best regards


blkZ28spt
07-07-2006, 01:38 PM
If your engine ticks but works 100%, does it really matter?

The AIR pump is not an engine tick.

The oil pump? What on earth does it do??

I havn't heard any complaints about leaky exhaust manifolds.....

Jack M
07-07-2006, 02:18 PM
If uncorrected, the tick can lead to wear, which requires part replacements. For instance, a faulty oil pump O ring seal can cause oil foaming, leading to engine and component parts wear - and ticking. A leaky exhaust manifold gasket, a bad thing by itself, also can make a tick noise. And the list goes on - a bad lifter effects performance in addition to driving one crazy with the noise. A bad air pump doesn't tick by itself, but it does effect emmissions quality, which can impact engine parts that eventually will make noises.


RPM WS6
07-07-2006, 06:21 PM
I'm not sure I understand this thread? :confused:

For those LS1s that experiance cold start ticking in stock form, the only common issue is piston slap or the occasional noisey EVAP purge solenoid.

The other things you listed are not common causes of cold start ticking on stock LS1s. Some of them do occur, but usually due to installer error (post assembly line installs) or owner abuse/poor maintenence.

Now, if you are refering to the general "sewing machine" type of sound from the valvetrain during normal acceleration (nothing to do with cold start, and not really an all-out 'tick'), that just seems to be the nature of the LS1 valvetrain. After owning 3 LS1s ('98, '99, '00) I've noticed that the '98/'99 cars tend to have more pronounced valvetrain noise due to the difference in stock exhaust manifolds. The '98/'99 cars use a double-walled stainless steel design that is thinner than the cast iron manifolds of the '00+ cars. A friend tested this theroy on a '99 LS1 years back, and with no other changes besides swapping to '00+ iron manifolds, the valvetrain was noticeably quieter inside the cabin under acceleration. I assume that was one of the reasons why GM reverted back to cast iron manifolds for the '00+ cars, to lessen customer complaints of engine/vavletrain related noises.

burnzilla
07-07-2006, 06:29 PM
LS1's. Already history.

Breaking Stuff
07-07-2006, 06:29 PM
I bitched to GM so much about the tick, after the whole run around I finally got all new internals. Guess what, it still ticks. Granted its no where near as bad as before, but it does come back and it sounds like shit. Ive learned to accept it. As long as this thing keeps bitch smackin mustang GTs Im happy.

Jack M
07-08-2006, 04:36 PM
I would like to believe that those that follow or participate in the several forums that include the LS1 engine also take reasonable mechanical care of their vehicles. Perhaps that is wrong. However, research of these 5 or 6 forums, which I've carefully done, will reveal many, many comments about cold start or continuous ticking noises involving the LS1 engine. Most of the responses to these comments seem to fall into the catagory of "yeah, I've got the same tick noise in my car".

Now, are all these piston slap issues? Undoubtably, some are, and others are due to the problems mentioned in the above initial thread start. After all, there is a fine, decernable difference in noises, not always detected, between the heavier-sounding piston slap and the more common tick noise steming from the other types of problems. Yes, common. Because a lot of the forum comments indicated that the ticks were corrected by changing a lifter, an exhaust manifold gasket, or an oil pump O ring seal, etc.

Chevrolet issued TSB #02-06-01-038 in December, 2002, entitled "Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)", and this was for a wide range of GM vehicles, including the Camaro LS1 AND LS6. The TSB statement indicated that the condition was likely to have existed since new. Y cars still under warranty were additionally treated with a replacement pick-up tube and screen.

So, what do we have here? My main point was to stimulate conversation about what technically accounts for the noise differences between two great aluminum block engines: The Chevrolet LS1, and the Cadillac Northstar. Any noise difference, whether common or not. The piston slap issue was already a given, so I was interested in the other tick noise problems, and was hopeful that it would be a good learning experience for all if some of the more technically knowledgable forum members chimed in.

Admitedly, a big part of my motivation for starting this thread was the fact that I have a 2002 LS1 Camaro with a cold start tick, and can't make up my mind whether to forget about it, like others, or to surrender my car to my local Chevy dealership for a fix.

That's it, guys. Any thoughts? And thanks, RPM WS6, for your comments, and hopefully my views are a little better understood.

Best regards

RPM WS6
07-08-2006, 11:42 PM
I would like to believe that those that follow or participate in the several forums that include the LS1 engine also take reasonable mechanical care of their vehicles. Perhaps that is wrong. However, research of these 5 or 6 forums, which I've carefully done, will reveal many, many comments about cold start or continuous ticking noises involving the LS1 engine. Most of the responses to these comments seem to fall into the catagory of "yeah, I've got the same tick noise in my car".

Now, are all these piston slap issues? Undoubtably, some are, and others are due to the problems mentioned in the above initial thread start. After all, there is a fine, decernable difference in noises, not always detected, between the heavier-sounding piston slap and the more common tick noise steming from the other types of problems. Yes, common. Because a lot of the forum comments indicated that the ticks were corrected by changing a lifter, an exhaust manifold gasket, or an oil pump O ring seal, etc.

Chevrolet issued TSB #02-06-01-038 in December, 2002, entitled "Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring)", and this was for a wide range of GM vehicles, including the Camaro LS1 AND LS6. The TSB statement indicated that the condition was likely to have existed since new. Y cars still under warranty were additionally treated with a replacement pick-up tube and screen.

So, what do we have here? My main point was to stimulate conversation about what technically accounts for the noise differences between two great aluminum block engines: The Chevrolet LS1, and the Cadillac Northstar. Any noise difference, whether common or not. The piston slap issue was already a given, so I was interested in the other tick noise problems, and was hopeful that it would be a good learning experience for all if some of the more technically knowledgable forum members chimed in.

Admitedly, a big part of my motivation for starting this thread was the fact that I have a 2002 LS1 Camaro with a cold start tick, and can't make up my mind whether to forget about it, like others, or to surrender my car to my local Chevy dealership for a fix.

That's it, guys. Any thoughts? And thanks, RPM WS6, for your comments, and hopefully my views are a little better understood.

Best regards

Personally, all I can tell you is that I've never had any significant cold start ticking/slapping issues on any of my 3 LS1s. Actually they've never had any "ticking" issues at all (in stock form), just the sewing machine type sound from the valvetrain during acceleration (which I consider normal for the motor, since every one I've ever heard shares that sound).

My WS6 did have a noticeable 'tick', but not until after the installation of an aftermarket cam and valvetrain, so I could hardly blame GM for that.

Whether or not this is a serious issue for the LS1s.... well, for the most part my answer would be no. Piston slap can lead to issues in theroy, but many real world exmaples tell a different story with these motors. Plently of LS1 owners with well over 100K miles on motors with cold start piston slap since day one, yet the engine is still going strong.

LS1s are not the only GM motor with piston slap issues. Ever heard a GM 3.1L V6? It is the king of cold start piston slap, yet there are hundereds of thousands of these motors in mid-sized GMs that continue to run strong regardless of the issue.

As for the other conditions you've listed (lifters, O-rings), I have never experianced those issues on a stock LS1, and I've never known anyone else to either, so I can't speak on that. I have known some to develop lifter issues post heads/cam install, but in fairness, you can't fault GM for things that happen after you alter their design.

As for a Northstar to LS1 comparison, I don't think that's possibile. The LS1 was designed with performance/power as the primary consideration. That was not the case with the Northstar. Not to mention, you are comparing DOHC to OHV arrangements, which further distances these motors from a direct comparison.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed
07-09-2006, 12:42 AM
Ticking is normal for a performance valvetrain in any engine. If you don't like it install a smaller cam and very soft valvesprings.

Jack M
07-09-2006, 03:45 PM
Thanks for the responses, guys. And particularly your insight, RPM WS6. One thing I failed to do in my researches was to keep track of the tick noise complaints from those who had modified their engines, and those that were still stock. But, from what you've experienced and heard about, the stock engine ticking other than cold start is in the minority, and not really a systemic type of problem with the LS1 engine.

And I now think that the ticking I have in my stock LS1 is probably just a tempory nuisance, going away after warm-up, and doesn't present any real wear problem to the engine. However, since you and others have not experienced a cold start tick, maybe I should have my car checked for some of the possibilities earlier mentioned.

Your statement that the LS1 was built mainly for performance was something that I knew, but had not fully grasped the total impacts of that. Naturally, when a performance engine is designed that leaves room for modifications, it's not going to be super tight and exacting like a Northstar engine, which was designed for modest 300 hp performance, but also for quietness. The quietness part probably accounts for most of the cost difference between the two engines. My choice of a comparison took into account only that the LS1 and Northstar were both great aluminum block engines, and not that there were two different design philosophies to achieve two somewhat different objectives.

Thanks for your comments. I think I'm much better off for having read them. And perhaps some of the other forum members have gained additional insight, as well.

Best regards.

RPM WS6
07-09-2006, 05:13 PM
Thanks for the responses, guys. And particularly your insight, RPM WS6. One thing I failed to do in my researches was to keep track of the tick noise complaints from those who had modified their engines, and those that were still stock. But, from what you've experienced and heard about, the stock engine ticking other than cold start is in the minority, and not really a systemic type of problem with the LS1 engine.

And I now think that the ticking I have in my stock LS1 is probably just a tempory nuisance, going away after warm-up, and doesn't present any real wear problem to the engine. However, since you and others have not experienced a cold start tick, maybe I should have my car checked for some of the possibilities earlier mentioned.

Your statement that the LS1 was built mainly for performance was something that I knew, but had not fully grasped the total impacts of that. Naturally, when a performance engine is designed that leaves room for modifications, it's not going to be super tight and exacting like a Northstar engine, which was designed for modest 300 hp performance, but also for quietness. The quietness part probably accounts for most of the cost difference between the two engines. My choice of a comparison took into account only that the LS1 and Northstar were both great aluminum block engines, and not that there were two different design philosophies to achieve two somewhat different objectives.

Thanks for your comments. I think I'm much better off for having read them. And perhaps some of the other forum members have gained additional insight, as well.

Best regards.

Always glad to help. :)

One thing to keep in mind, is that a "tick" (or any other noise for that matter) can and will be perceived differently by different people.

I've personally never had any serious cold start piston slap issues on any of my LS1s. Now, not to say that they've all been super quiet (not the case), but it's never been to the point where it concerned or bothered me. Usually, I am very picky about these things and I notice everything, so for me to be "OK" with it, would only be because I feel it's within normal operating parameters for an LS1.

Obviously since I'm not there to hear your car, I can't say how it compares to mine. But I can tell you that I've heard others produce significantly more noise than mine without any known reduction in engine life or power (some of these cars have dynoed well above average).

So long as the noise goes away with warm-up, it's likely the common LS1 cold-start piston slap and I wouldn't worry about it. Bent valves or pushrods, in my experiance, tend to be more quiet with a cold engine and tick louder as the motor warms up, so I don't think that's your issue.

As for any "ticking" type sounds you might hear during acceleration (with a warm motor), chances are that's just the normal LS1 valvetrain sewing maching sound which is perfectly normal. It will be more noticeable under increasing loads (like turing the A/C on). This noise is MUCH quieter than a bent valve/bent P-rod type sound (if you've ever heard that); I'd actually call it more of a mechanical pulsing than a tick/slap if that makes any sense. Every LS1 I've ever heard has this noise, but it's minor enough that many people don't even think twice about it and my not even realize it's there. Honestly, it's nothing to worry about, it's just the nature of the motor/valvetrain.

PS. The Northstar is a great engine, as is the LS1. And although they are both V8s with excellent performance, their primary goals are not the same.

Northstar = Quiet, smooth, DOHC arrangement with good power.

LS1 = Extremly powerful, affordable, OHV arrangement with an excellent blend of torque and horsepower from idle all the way to redline.

MiaSSmaro98
07-10-2006, 12:55 PM
guys wat is piston slap?and my ls1 has 110k miles and ticks but my case will be wearn out componets

Jack M
07-11-2006, 02:39 PM
Below link (or post to browser) is to one of many documents/TSBs involving GM piston slap. It's aimed at certain GM vehicles other than those equiped with LS1 engines. While some LSI engine owners have filed complaints, and in some cases have received small cash or extended warranty offers from GM, the general feeling is that Camaros and Firebirds have not really been harmed by piston slap. This is evidenced by thousands upon thousands of driving miles without loss of performance or engine-related functioning, albeit the cold start noises.

GM also took a position on what they believe to be "acceptable" oil consumption - something like one quart over 2,000 miles.

110,000 miles without some sort of component wear - and ticking, would be unusual IMO.

Best regards


http://www.pistonslap.com/tsb/010601005.pdf

brandons02
07-13-2006, 09:05 PM
Got that classic tick, I tryed different types of oil, even tried Lucas, guy at the Chevy Dealership said that the only way he has fixed the tick is by putting a VW oil filter on some of the 5.7s that have came through, what that does I dont know.

MiaSSmaro98
07-13-2006, 09:52 PM
vw oil filter?

Jack M
07-13-2006, 09:57 PM
I've considered trying the long A/C Delco filter, and even putting in 6 or 6.5 quarts of oil as a lot of racers do because of the big LS1 pan. But the cold start tick comes from cold oil, not filter size or oil quantity.

One of the other forums suggested trying Chevron Techtron, which costs around $14. This is probably the same type additive most all refiners put in their gasoline, but this one is more concentrated and you put it in your tank when you're down to 10-12 gallons. If the tick is from carbon on the pistons (using low octane gas), it's supposed to help after 1-2 applications.

Don't know if a VW filter would help get rid of a tick. Does it have super filtration qualities that catches crappy stuff from the bottom of your pan, keeping it out of your lifters? If that's your condition, I'd drop your pan and clean it out - and change your oil, obviously.

brandons02
07-14-2006, 09:46 AM
thanks, the VW oil filter struct me as weird to but I guess there the "experts", I'll check my oil pan and thanks again

MiaSSmaro98
07-14-2006, 12:34 PM
One of the other forums suggested trying Chevron Techtron, which costs around $14. This is probably the same type additive most all refiners put in their gasoline, but this one is more concentrated and you put it in your tank when you're down to 10-12 gallons. If the tick is from carbon on the pistons (using low octane gas), it's supposed to help after 1-2 applications.



hey wat exactly do u mean by buy chevron withtech?u may put chevron gas or they have there own bottle of an additive u can buy?

Jack M
07-14-2006, 05:35 PM
It's a bottle that you can buy at most any Chevron station, or maybe some auto parts stores. It's a concentrated fuel additive that, when added to your gas tank, is supposed to get rid of carbon deposits on the top of the pistons, thus improving cylinder firing and the combustion cycle. If you've been using less octane than 91-93, you probably have some amount of carbon deposits.

The same stuff is also in Chevron's gasoline, but in a lesser quantity or concentration. The fewer gallons of gas in your tank when it's added, the more concentrated the solution. Chevron recommends that you not have less than 10-12 gallons when you pour in the additive.

I'm getting ready to try it myself, just as soon as I burn off a few more gallons of gas from my tank.

MiaSSmaro98
07-14-2006, 05:41 PM
so i guess they sell it at chevrons then gonnna go check one out later?

BigDaddyZ28
07-16-2006, 06:01 AM
Admitedly, a big part of my motivation for starting this thread was the fact that I have a 2002 LS1 Camaro with a cold start tick, and can't make up my mind whether to forget about it, like others, or to surrender my car to my local Chevy dealership for a fix.




The 'ticking' noise is directly proportional to the amount of HP that your LS-1 has... :drive:

The other engines that you listed do not make as much power as the LS-1 does and therefore they do not 'tick' as much. :bang:

If you listen very carefully and count the number of 'ticks' that your car makes before it quiets down, You can then divide by 2 to get your peak HP.
(works the same way as cricket chirps measuring the temperature) :)

I thought EVERYBODY knew this stuff by now... :eyes:

brandons02
07-16-2006, 01:33 PM
really I'll have to try that, thanks

02SS#406
07-16-2006, 01:57 PM
I now run 0/30 German Castrol Syntec, with a large Wix filter. 6 quarts, no tick, no slap, and no consumption up to 5k miles (when I change it). I just turned 50k miles.

Jack M
07-16-2006, 02:58 PM
How can number of ticks be directly proportional to the power of a LS1 when you've not established a constant - like engine speed?

Please complete your unusual formula so we all can start counting ticks instead of bearing the expense of having our LS1 cars dynoed.

BigDaddyZ28
07-16-2006, 05:27 PM
How can number of ticks be directly proportional to the power of a LS1 when you've not established a constant - like engine speed?

Please complete your unusual formula so we all can start counting ticks instead of bearing the expense of having our LS1 cars dynoed.


I usually take my count when the engine is cold and at normal idle speed. (while car is warming up @ 800rpm) My ticking usually goes away once the car has reached operating temp and once that happens this method of testing/measuring will not work without allowing the car to completely cool down first. :drive:

A really big cam is going to affect the overall number of ticks and the way that the ticking sounds so I suggest anyone running a large cam add about 25% to the total number of ticks before dividing the final sum by 2 to get your overall HP. :devil:

Special note: While having unusually low oil will sometimes cause our cars to tick (or 'knock') more in most cases, Having 'low oil' is NOT going to give you an increase in power and I do not suggest letting your oil level get low just for the purpose of gaining more 'ticks' during this test. (That would be cheating and the results will NOT be accurate) Make sure your oil level is correct before you start counting and be advised that running oil 'additives' will affect your results... :)

I have in the past cut the bottom off of an empty beer can to sort of use as a makeshift stethoscope to help me count but I HIGHLY suggest that if anyone does this that they should try to grind down any sharp edges first. I darn near sliced my ear off last time when I lost my balance a little and the edge of the 32oz got me... :bang: :bang: :bang:

RPM WS6
07-17-2006, 06:22 PM
I usually take my count when the engine is cold and at normal idle speed. (while car is warming up @ 800rpm) My ticking usually goes away once the car has reached operating temp and once that happens this method of testing/measuring will not work without allowing the car to completely cool down first. :drive:

A really big cam is going to affect the overall number of ticks and the way that the ticking sounds so I suggest anyone running a large cam add about 25% to the total number of ticks before dividing the final sum by 2 to get your overall HP. :devil:

Special note: While having unusually low oil will sometimes cause our cars to tick (or 'knock') more in most cases, Having 'low oil' is NOT going to give you an increase in power and I do not suggest letting your oil level get low just for the purpose of gaining more 'ticks' during this test. (That would be cheating and the results will NOT be accurate) Make sure your oil level is correct before you start counting and be advised that running oil 'additives' will affect your results... :)

I have in the past cut the bottom off of an empty beer can to sort of use as a makeshift stethoscope to help me count but I HIGHLY suggest that if anyone does this that they should try to grind down any sharp edges first. I darn near sliced my ear off last time when I lost my balance a little and the edge of the 32oz got me... :bang: :bang: :bang:

:funny: :rotflmao:

That's funny as hell. :D

As for the additives mentioned above (fuel system cleaners), I'd recommend trying Red Line Fuel System Cleaner. You can get it online or at Pep Boys. It can be used in concentrated doseage for rapid cleanup, then in small doses with every fill-up to maintain a clean fuel system and upper cylinder area.

I use 1oz for every 5-6 gallons of fuel (per Red Line specs) in my Camaro because the car sits a lot, and the product also protects the fuel system from rust/corrosion due to mositure build-up from lack of constant driving.

Stuff works great. In my other cars, I use a full bottle about every 10-15K miles as regular maintenance.

BigDaddyZ28
07-18-2006, 06:46 AM
I was mostly talking about the 'oil' additives that people sometimes use and how they can sometimes 'quiet' valvetrain noises. (like the Lucas stuff)

I do use the Lucas stuff in my 260k DSM to help quiet the noisy lifters but keep in mind that the engine in that car has a bunch of miles on it and IF the additives do cause something to take a dump, I will still feel like I got my $$$ worth out of the engine. :)

My Camaro does have the cold start 'tick' but it only has 20k on the engine and until I get much higher mileage on it I will just stick to the manufacturer's recommendations and stay away from oil additives. I dont really figure I need them when running synthetic oil anyway... (and they will also mess up my counting if they quiet things down :bang: :jest: )

As far as fuel system cleaners go, It worries the heck out of me that using one of them may knock some crud loose and that the crud might make its way to the injector filter baskets and get caught there (reducing overall injector flow). I wouldn't be so concerned about using the stuff except that our fuel filters are way back there towards the back of the car instead of up close to the injectors. That is a lot of fuel line to go through after the filter and the filter basket is the last line of defense. Im just not really sure how safe it is to run the cleaners with the way that our cars are plumbed. :eyes:

The DSM's have the fuel filter less than a foot or 2 from the injectors. I dont feel so bad dumping the fuel cleaners in them because if anything does get knocked loose in the fuel lines, The filter is darn near at the end of the line to catch it before it cloggs my injectors. I recently sent some 175k old DSM injectors off to be cleaned and rebuilt. The company that did the service sent the old/replaced injector parts back and I got to look at the filter baskets up close. They were NASTY with rusty looking crud on them FWIW :) .

I'm just concerned about there being so much fuel line between our Camaro fuel filters and the fuel rail/injectors. That is an awful lot of line and I can't help but wonder where the trash will get caught at. :eyes:

My car has 'ticked' since NEW with less than 50 miles on it... It now has 20k and I have noticed NO problems at all because of it. It usually goes away as soon as the car warms up. :) Crickets 'chirp' to tell the temperature. My LS-1 'ticks' to tell me that it has POWER! (or at least it make me feel better to think so)

RPM WS6
07-18-2006, 06:55 AM
I wouldn't worry too much about clogging the injectors with a cleaner. A good fuel system cleaner will dissolve any crud, not just move it around. It shouldn't clog anything at all. I've been using Red Line in my Camaro for years now without an issue. Regular use of the product also insures that no large amount of crud should ever build up anyway.

FWIW, my Bonneville and Monte Carlo also have the fuel filters all the way at the back of the car. I have not nad any clogging issues with them either.

After 60K miles, my Bonneville actually still gets better gas mileage than GM rated it for, so I assume that using the cleaner has only helped. :)

TURBHOE
07-18-2006, 08:06 AM
Crickets 'chirp' to tell the temperature. My LS-1 'ticks' to tell me that it has POWER!

i agree the ls1 tick is just the sound of hp in the morning. :)

BigDaddyZ28
07-18-2006, 06:58 PM
i agree the ls1 tick is just the sound of hp in the morning. :)

:devil: A wonderful sound... Last time I counted, I was up real close to @350HP at the wheels. :devil:


Thanks a buch for the tips and advice RPM WS6... I appreciate guys like you that help us all out. :)

Smearin
07-18-2006, 07:18 PM
I dont have any ticks.... Maybe you guys talking about it... started an effect..... Now guys are gonna be looking for anything that sounds like a tick...

BigDaddyZ28
07-18-2006, 09:37 PM
I dont have any ticks.... Maybe you guys talking about it... started an effect..... Now guys are gonna be looking for anything that sounds like a tick...

If you want to go all out, you can get a bigger cam as well to 'enhance' the sounds. :cool:
When my buddy put the cam in his LS-1, It was like a friggin symphony... :)
(The following loss of rubber on his rear tires was direct evidence of the gain)

" A really big cam is going to affect the overall number of ticks and the way that the ticking sounds so I suggest anyone running a large cam add about 25% to the total number of ticks before dividing the final sum by 2 to get your overall HP. "

I studied up on this stuff and I KNOW... :smokin2:

TURBHOE
07-19-2006, 05:47 AM
so when does everybodies piston slap start? mine doesn't start until the eng runs for about 20-30 seconds then it start in until warm up. at about 160* it stops.

Jack M
07-19-2006, 06:48 AM
4.8T,

My tick is about like yours: I start hearing it 30 seconds after a cold start, then it goes away when the temp gets up around 160 -180 degrees.

It may actually be ticking during the first 30 seconds, but the initial 900 RPM idle speed noise in Park could be drowning it out. When idle RPM drops down to 600-700, I put it in gear and start out, and hear the tick for the next mile or so at 20 mph neighborhood driving.

RPM WS6
07-19-2006, 11:02 AM
Thanks a buch for the tips and advice RPM WS6... I appreciate guys like you that help us all out. :)


Glad to be of service. :cheers:

lastofthebreedWS6
07-19-2006, 03:36 PM
Im active duty army, and have been gone so damn much since i bought my WS6 i have had very little time to educate myself, hence why I have just recently spent any amount of time on this site. Anyhow, I had a tick since the day I bought my WS6, brand new, 2002, with 5 miles on the ODO. Being brand new, I thought, must be normal. A couplee wonderful military cross country moves later, im in Oregon, on my way to Ft. Lewis, WA and I get an SES Light. Still under warranty, take it to the local dealership after I get settled in my new home, They say Bad O2 sensor, and left bank cat needs to be replaced (16K miles, thats strange?) so I mention the noise and ask them to check it out, 2 months and a brand new LS1 later, the tick is gone, but now with 20K miles on the clock (4k on the new engine) I still get odd codes when driving it hard, they go away, and come back. WTF? Also, firing it up in the morning and driving off, unless i let it warm up, and I mean damn near to op. temp., the RPM's drop to about 300-500 and acts like its going to die, it gets warm, everything is fine. Any advice? While im at it, the replacement engine I got, has the "use Mobil-1 5W30" cap on the oil fill port, my original engine did not, I was once told this may be an indication I have an LS6? Doubt it, but that would be nice. Sorry for the rambling, but this is the first opportunity Ive had to unload all this info. Please advise.

RPM WS6
07-19-2006, 06:04 PM
Im active duty army, and have been gone so damn much since i bought my WS6 i have had very little time to educate myself, hence why I have just recently spent any amount of time on this site. Anyhow, I had a tick since the day I bought my WS6, brand new, 2002, with 5 miles on the ODO. Being brand new, I thought, must be normal. A couplee wonderful military cross country moves later, im in Oregon, on my way to Ft. Lewis, WA and I get an SES Light. Still under warranty, take it to the local dealership after I get settled in my new home, They say Bad O2 sensor, and left bank cat needs to be replaced (16K miles, thats strange?) so I mention the noise and ask them to check it out, 2 months and a brand new LS1 later, the tick is gone, but now with 20K miles on the clock (4k on the new engine) I still get odd codes when driving it hard, they go away, and come back. WTF? Also, firing it up in the morning and driving off, unless i let it warm up, and I mean damn near to op. temp., the RPM's drop to about 300-500 and acts like its going to die, it gets warm, everything is fine. Any advice? While im at it, the replacement engine I got, has the "use Mobil-1 5W30" cap on the oil fill port, my original engine did not, I was once told this may be an indication I have an LS6? Doubt it, but that would be nice. Sorry for the rambling, but this is the first opportunity Ive had to unload all this info. Please advise.

The cat failing early isn't unheard of. Perhaps the O2 sensor had been giving poor readings for a while before getting bad enough to throw a code, hence allowing the A/F to run overly rich for an extended time putting the cat at greater risk of failure.

As for your other DTCs (codes) that pop up randomly after hard driving, what are the codes for? Can't be of much help without knowing what the PCM is saying.

And the idle condition, that could be connected to the intermittent SES light that you're getting. MANY things on these OBDII cars can cause idle issues, from electronic/sensor issues to vacuum leaks. Again, if you give us the codes perhaps we can help further.

As for the oil fil cap, honestly I don't know anything about that.

brandons02
09-02-2006, 06:59 PM
how bout this one,got a 97 silverado/454, just put a brand new engine in and for some reason it has a slight miss, any thing i have to do with the computer? Thanks

bene
11-26-2010, 04:24 AM
Necro post... sorry but I just wanted to share some experience...

My LS1 must hate the cold, I mean cold like <40*. The motor would start however a loud ticking would follow until it warms up. What even funnier is it only happens in the morning as when I do another cold start at lunch it doesn't tick or even in the evening it doesn't tick.

This tick started when I had the stock long block. When I did the h/c swap, I checked everything that could make/cause the tick and eventually for any wear and everything looked good.

Like I said, this happens only in the morning when it's really cold outside and happens only once in a day.:confused: