SRpwred240

I just talked with thunder racing and the guy recommended a 224cam, Is that what most full bolt on street cars go with. I want a cam that Im gonna get the most power out of but still be streetable. He said Id prob get about 30rwhp out of that cam., Id like about 370 -380rwhp after cam.My car is an A4 with full bolt ons and Im about to have a stall just dont know if I want a 3200 or 3600 stall. He said about $650 for the install, is that about average, and they would need my car for about a week for the install and dyno tune,

radkon

iTrader: (2)

224 is a decent off the shelf cam, I have one. There are bigger cams that will get more HP. It all depends on what you are looking for. I'd suggest looking around the site and possibly seeing a few cars in person before you choose. Where are you located and what is your ride?

SRpwred240

2000 A4 WS6 with Pacesetter LT,ORY,Corsa,KN FIPK,LS6 intake,Port TB.Gulfport Ms about 2 hours from Thunder Racing so dropping my car off and leaving a week could be a problem getting a ride back from and to. Im not gonna rush into anything but I plan on taking my vacation from work in the next month or so and kinda want everything done then.

lt1formula2000

iTrader: (10)

I met a guy last month who gave me a ride in his 98 car that had a 224 cam in it not sure who from but he had a comp cam card he showed it was all stock with the exception of a 80 series muffler and the cam I mean stock lid EGR & CATS he knows nothing about cars and bought it like this. it's a hardtop A4 with 3.23's stock stall. when I rode in it, I wasn't to impressed but then again I haven't rode in to many A4 LS1 cars. So we raced and my 99 M6 lid,full exhaust car beat it from a stop and a roll everytime my car didn't run off or walk off from it kinda jogged away from his car. though his car would benefit greatly from bolt ons to.

but yes his car drives almost 100% like stock I personally would say go bigger(I have a MS4 on it's way) If you can handle a little low end loss which miht not be noticably with your stall. I had a 227/233 111LSA cam in my old LT1 and I loved it great drivabilty, loped enough you could tell it had a cam never dynoed but it had a great SOTP power increase and it would easily take a stock cam bolt on car. I didn't even lose really any gas mileage either.
I have a hard justifying spending that amount of money on a small cam, though my car is a M6 4.10 geared car so I don't have to worry to much about under the curve and low RPM power. it's nice but I'll sacrafice it for top end.

98hardtopZ

iTrader: (7)

that is a good starter cam, i have a friend with that in his m6 and its awesome. its really pointless to put a cam on a non-stalled car though...

SRpwred240

Im not to worried about a few MPG. I wanna match a good cam with my stall which is gonna be either a 3200 or 3600 stall. I want it to still be streetable, I dont mind if its noticabily got a cam in it.If its worth it in horsepower I do wanna go bigger.

98hardtopZ

iTrader: (7)

tr 227....step it up a bit...im thinking of the same setup...

Brianss1

You can go bigger and still have a daily driver.01 WS6, I have a comp custom grind 228/ 236 ,588/ 578 ,114 , 2.02 1.575 manly racemaster valves with fully polished and ported heads Trend Fully hardend pushrods, COMP TI retainers, Dual Valve spring's,all bolts ons,and a 3400 stall,mac headers,off road y pipe,magnflow catback,BMR susp,12 bolt,3.73.No issues and it sounds great,nice lope.424hp and 380tq.

SRpwred240

I appreciate the suggestions will keep them in mind when I call Thunder to set up my appointment. Prob will go around a 227-228 or bigger setup. Like I said I wanna put around 375rwhp after cam, Thats pretty good numbers Brianss1, Do you got The 90-90 setup or the LS6.

blkZ28spt

You absolutely want a 3600 RPM stall speed. No ifs ands or buts about it, especially considering that you are installing a cam.

A 224 is a good all around cam that makes decent power and drives very nicely on a good tune. It sounds like you want a larger cam, but I do not know how much larger you can/should go without also raising the stall speed of the converter. You have to match the stall speed, shift point and shift extension to the power range of the camshaft. The bigger cams like more RPM, which means shifting higher and/or having a higher stall speed. How high, exactly, depends on the specific cam in question.

Do not worry about how many RWHP the dyno says you have. Dynos are a tuning tool and nothing more. What really matters is how quick/fast the car is. It's all about track numbers, they tell the whole story...especially with stalled autos.

SRpwred240

Yeah I was thinking of going with the 3600stall, but Im getting a vigilante and alot of guys say the vig actually stalls higher more around 3500 or so.Im gonna double check with thunder before I order it, the vig3200 is also what he recommended to begin with.
Im not that worried about the nubers but still want good numbers after the cam and stall, Id like to be in the high 11s low 12s around 112-113mph area. Hopefully Thunder can hook me up pretty good.

blkZ28spt

You should have stated you were looking a "Vig 3200" earlier. Vig converters do stall higher than they are rated. A Vigilante 3200 is not a bad choice.

You should have no problems running low 12's so long as you use a sticky tire and hook. Watch out for the rear end, though, they like to go .

Even my slow *** car ran high 11's with cam/converter (though a little bigger than you are going), and that was in mid summer heat and humidity.

SRpwred240

Yeah I was gonna go with the 3:73s but I think Im gonna hold off on them untill the rear end goes then get them, and hopefully I can find some Mickey Drags on Ebay for a good price. thanks for your help and opinions.

SRpwred240

blkz28spt, I noticed you got a new crank pulley and no alternator pulley in your mod list. I wanna go with a new crank pulley too with the cam swap,Do you think I need to get the alt pulley?(I heard if you do the alt pulley too it takes away from the horse power you would get from a new crank pulley) Im not gonna have anything but the stock sound system in. Any other a4 guys got the crank pulley and no alternator pulley?

blkZ28spt

Most guys with autos, as far as I know, go with a crank pulley only. That will give you the majority of the potential power gain and avoid charging issues.

This is also what Speed Inc recommended.