dafriezez28

As some of you may know, I had (have) an '88 IROC-Z convertible, pictured below.









And here is said IROC convertible after a Ford ranger took a left in front of me when I was going through a green light and literally RAN OVER the hood. . .







The car is equipped with the 305 TPI and 700R4 auto, which, suprisingly went a 14.9 @ 92 almost bone-stock (pulley and an air-foil with 145k miles). Here's the problem. The car was wrecked 1.5 years ago and hasn't been started since because the rear-main on the tranny went with the impact (it was already starting to leak). AMAZINGLY there's no real frame damage, per se, but the engine needs to be re-built, as does the trans. Since this car is one of about 1,957 from that year, and one of only a few with every factory option, I'd like to keep numbers matching and get a WA rebuilt certificate.

As far as body-work, I've got it handled. Because of my job (long story) we have a good relationship with a reputable shop that will do the body-labor for $28 an hour!! so that's done. . .

But my problem comes in where I need to find a speed-shop to rebuild the motor in the area that will do a good job. I tried Jim Green's in Lynnwood, but they want $3500 for the engine (not including labor to PULL and RE-INSTALL, which they said would be another couple grand), and $1800 for the tranny. If anyone knows of a good speed-shop that is reputable and can maybe put 250 or so HP to the wheels of this bad-boy with a mild cam and maybe some head-porting. . .? That'd be ideal. Anyway, I'd be fine with a stock rebuild, too, but it's going to need a full rebuild as the #8 cylinder has some compression loss and the engine now has 192k on it (was still running strong @ time of accident, surprisingly).

This was/is a one-owner car (was my dad's) and was in PHENOMENAL shape before the wreck. . . I want to do her justice by bringing her back every bit as good as new, only better.

I've also been trying to find some two-line IROC wheels like the ones pictured in a size bigger than 16", but to no avail. Anyone know of a place to go for those? I don't like the one-line style of most IROC wheels. . .

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

I have another option

I have a 350 TPI engine you could drop in...complete! I believe 70k miles out of an 87. I can burn a copy of the prom and it should drop in


I sure miss my 88 IROC....but may not be alive if I was driving it two days after I traded it in

dafriezez28

Wow Ellis, that'd DEF be an option! I sure wouldn't mind a little extra power out of that bad-boy. . . and the L98 might be a good way to do it. Is it stock (I'm almost afraid to ask knowing you lol)? I can still hang onto the 305 and rebuild it when the time comes for matching #s. . . but email me @ dafrieze18@comcast.net w/ details on the L98 and how much you're selling it for!!

Kinda funny. .. you had an 88 IROC and how have a quazar blue Z. I feel like some sort of demented, younger, much slower f-body brother or something. . . LOL. How is the Z, anyway? Been a while since I've been to the track or one of the meets.

CHarris

iTrader: (5)

I'd definitely second the idea of the 350 swap. Its cool to keep all the numbers matching stuff... but since you mention it being a rebuild title (I assume you mean the same as salvage title due to it being totalled by insurance?) it may not matter much to a serious collector (i.e. the guy who cares about numbers matching). In my opinion the salvage title status frees you to do what you want and enjoy the car. It may not ever be worth the true full value of clean title car.

As a fellow owner of a convertible I say get that thing rolling and get some of the short summer sun

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

E-mail sent

dafriezez28

See, that's what I'm wondering. . . there's a "salvage" title, and then there's a "WA rebuilt" title, which means that it's been rebuilt to collectors' specifications (at least that's my understanding). When it's WA rebuilt, it means it is technically at or above the standards of a full rebuild. So essentially, since the damage wasn't that bad (and I have pics to prove it) a collector might not care that much?

But I agree, I want to get this thing rolling and FAST! The body-work should be done in about a year here or possibly a little more, but the motor. . . I don't know. I want to get that up and running FIRST before the body-work because otherwise I'll just end up scratching her up once I get it painted and then try to yank the motor, etc. . . so yeah.

Thanks for the opinions, guys. This car is going to be a beast by the time I get done.

I think I'm going to pull the 3rd gen leather seats since they are in really good condition and put them in storage. . . buy a set of 4th gen leather seats to keep in my Z for now, and when the time comes to rebuild the IROC, I'll swap 'em in and put the cloth seats back in the Z. :-)

dafriezez28

Reply sent Thanks Ellis.

Rottluver

iTrader: (3)

Not to rain on your parade, but a "real" collector looking for a numbers matching car WILL care if it has been in an accident that looked like that.....even if there is no frame damage........but quoting you, "AMAZINGLY there's no real frame damage, per se" it sounds like there is some.....so collectors value is pretty out the window. But I would definitely go with Ellis, he is the man!!!!! And a L98 swap would be a nice power boost.

Also, I have no idea personally, but you may want to look into the requirements to get a "rebuilt" title versus a "salvage" title...........just to be safe.

Good luck with it, sorry about the crash but good luck with getting her fixed up. And if you wanna sell her, I got $500-1000 with your name on it.

dafriezez28

Rott, thanks for the advice. There really isn't frame damage, at least none that the inspector was able to see. The only reason I say 'per se' is because the radiator shroud (plastic piece) is damaged and will have to be replaced.

My dad doesn't seem too hot on the idea of the 350, and I can't figure out why. I mean, it's not his car anyway, but we both have sentimental attachment to it b/c we picked it out together when I was five and have had fun restoring/tweaking it ever since. . . I personally think the L98 is a great way to go and I think I may really consider it depending on a few things. . . but I'd really like that extra power boost and i know Ellis is a reputable guy, so I have no worries there!

As for selling it, I appreciate the offer. . . but there's no way I'll ever get rid of my baby! I got offered $2200 for it amazingly after it got wrecked b/c the top and leather are in such good condition, but I wouldn't budge. I bought it back for $300

Rottluver

iTrader: (3)

Oh I understand.....I keep hunting for a replacement for my '92 Z28 (305 TPI & 5-spd) that I had about 10 yrs ago.........I love those cars.

Good luck with whatever you end up doing with her.

dafriezez28

Yeah. . . I don't know what it is about the third gens, but I've always had a soft spot for them. . . and just certain ones. It's wierd, because the majority I see just look like ***, run like ***, and are as slow as ***. . . but you see a clean one once in a while that just makes your jaw drop and that's how this one was. :'( when I repainted it I used a black pearl that was so deep it always looked like it was wet, and in the right light it was blue. You can kinda tell in the hood picture, but it does it no justice. Anyway, I'll quit ranting now! I just love that car

You should pick up a 3rd gen project! They can be had pretty cheap, now.

Rockin C Racing

iTrader: (3)

If you are interested I have a fresh rebuilt 700R4. I had it done for my 84 Z28 and have since gotten rid of it. I paid $600 for the rebuild this last winter and that is what I'll sell it for. It does have a shift kit and some other goodies in it. It was set up for a street/strip car. Let me know if you are interested.

nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

Sucks the car got smashed! Yea i just ran into this thread, I would recommend the 350TPI for additional kick. I have an 87 iroc-z 350TPI that I am selling. The body is bad but i am pretty much selling it for the engine and tranny.
I have rebuilt this 350 and have new heads cam, new high flo tpi intake slp runners holley 52mm tb, etc many more mods, and totally rebuilt tranny with 2400 stall B&M torque converter. This tranny is built tough, i had it taken in and spent too much haha 2400 for everything with synthetic fluid and big tranny cooler. It has all hardened internals and a shift kit.
This car i would guess has round 270 to the wheels or so.
Runs around a 13.7 @ 100mph with cutout open. Very torquey.
Anyway If you are interested in this PM me.
Also it has the borg warner rear end (factory stock) never had issues and has been great,this is a much better rear end than what most came with.
Let me know
Good Luck!

NWDragRacer

That's a great idea!


Besides, I could use the space

iansane

I love thirdgen verts.



Did the earlier camaros get those raingutter reinforcements down the pinchwelds under the door? It may take a lot more inspecting to make sure everything is okay. That "reinforcement" was just riveted in there and may have shifted/broken. The top stil functions fine? Was it up or down on impact?

Only downside I see to the 5.7 is any spirited driving really brings out the spaghetti-like structure these cars have. You'd really want to stiffen it up some but that might also kill some of the value of it?

dafriezez28

Top was up and still drains fine. . . I def would need some more structural rigidity, which is why I was going to get a front sway bar in the engine bay. . . but I don't know if that'd hurt the value or not. . . I guess technically I can always weld it in and take it out easily if need be? I guess we'll see. . .

I'm SO excited to have this car back! That bird is beautiful, by the way. . . even more rare than the IROC convertibles!

Amorget

You cannot weld in the sway bars. If you are talking about a "Wonder Bar", nobody welds those in. Things that will help with the structural issues: Strut Tower Brace, wonderbar, and Sub Frame Connectors.

Rottluver

iTrader: (3)

What he said, sway bars go underneath the motor, in the suspension and help you turn better (hopefully )

dafriezez28

Durrr! that's the cold medicine talking lol I didn't mean a sway bar :p

Sorry, too much nyquil and I get a bit LOOOOPY

Amorget

LOL, so what did you mean to say? The only weld on part for increasing frame stiffness is Sub Frame Connectors :-)