Cooling issues with D1SC
07-17-2006, 12:41 AM
#1
Cooling issues with D1SC Prety much got the car back with this setup on Friday, but it seems to have some cooling issues. I have a OBX 4" thick intercooler, stock radiator, SPAL fans, 160 t-stat. I was driving today and the stock gauge seemed to get a little past the midway point, so I decided to hook up Autotap to it. Autotap showed 226. I was just crusing for about 20 minutes, didn't even give it any boost. I pulled over right away so it can cool down. I let it cool down until it got to about 212 or so, then drove off and parked it up were I could.
Later at night, I figured I would drive it since it was much cooler, and while crusing the temperate stayed around 212-219. Still a bit high. I took it on the highway, and it got up up to 230. Pulled over at first exit and let it cool down in a gas station for 30 minutes.
Anyone have any ideas on how I can get this thing to stay cool? I am thinking of getting a LT1 radiator, or even an aftermarket one,and placing a pusher fan infront of it while still having the two SPAL fans as pullers behind it. It sucks that I just got it back, and it can't even stay cooled.
Thanks for any responses.
Oh yea, I did try getting any air pockets out of it, but didn't seem to change were the temperature stays at.
Later at night, I figured I would drive it since it was much cooler, and while crusing the temperate stayed around 212-219. Still a bit high. I took it on the highway, and it got up up to 230. Pulled over at first exit and let it cool down in a gas station for 30 minutes.
Anyone have any ideas on how I can get this thing to stay cool? I am thinking of getting a LT1 radiator, or even an aftermarket one,and placing a pusher fan infront of it while still having the two SPAL fans as pullers behind it. It sucks that I just got it back, and it can't even stay cooled.
Thanks for any responses.
Oh yea, I did try getting any air pockets out of it, but didn't seem to change were the temperature stays at.
07-17-2006, 01:00 AM
#2
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After making sure the rad is free of all bubbles, if you still have a problem a larger radiator would not hurt, with more fan. I also run Evans cool it helps too, and is fairly cheap. You can have a hole cut in your shroud like some have done and add a small spal puller. I just bought the setup from sdce already complete, to save me some time on my current upgrades, takes me so long to do stuff I figured any time and aggravation saved is a help. I tried water wetter and have used it on all my bikes ECT. But this time it wasnt enough. Hope this helps.
07-17-2006, 01:12 AM
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I always put the car on blocks in front about a foot high, then I start the car with the cap off. Also I take the small rubber line off the crossover tube under the throttle body while filling it and let air escape till it comes out free of air and is just coolant, then let it completely warm up till there is good circulation in the rad, then I close it and drive it a little. I do this several times after cooling completely off, too see if air comes out of the rubber line. You probably have them all out but its worth a double check. You probably need to change your setup a little.
07-17-2006, 01:16 AM
#5
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Are your fans shrouded well? Also is your bumper cut out so air can get to the radiator and is the front end opened up enough to let alot of air in?
Last edited by BOONE; 07-17-2006 at 02:35 AM.
07-17-2006, 02:46 AM
#6
i would cut out the whole front bumper were the intercooler was. i would say new fans or bigger radiator also. good luck. 160 would be letting coolant run free i would imagine on a fi setup. maybe a 180 would be better?
07-17-2006, 04:58 AM
#7
Normally fans aren't needed at speeds above 35 mph, so I would look in other areas for your problem. The air being trapped in the system is certainly one of them, and I'd look to see where your part throttle air/fuel ratio is at. Bob
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07-18-2006, 12:49 AM
#8
Thanks for your replys. The fans are prety good, they pull real hard. The front of the bumper is prety cut up, but the intercooler gets the majority of that air.
Today I tryed letting the air out by lifting the front passenger side of the car up, and letting the car get up to temperature, then reving it. It seemed to get some bubbles out, and it was idling at about 189 or so after 20 minutes, but when I took it for a drive the temperature rose up to 225 so I just pulled it back to my garage. I am switching to the LT1 radiator tommorow..I am thinking my stock LS1 radiator might be clogged, or who knows.
Right now it has a base tune in it so I can brake the motor in, but I am getting a full dyno tune by a shop in a couple of weeks. I wasn't aware the a/f ratio can have a huge effect on what temperature the motor runs at.
Today I tryed letting the air out by lifting the front passenger side of the car up, and letting the car get up to temperature, then reving it. It seemed to get some bubbles out, and it was idling at about 189 or so after 20 minutes, but when I took it for a drive the temperature rose up to 225 so I just pulled it back to my garage. I am switching to the LT1 radiator tommorow..I am thinking my stock LS1 radiator might be clogged, or who knows.
and I'd look to see where your part throttle air/fuel ratio is at
Last edited by Jimmy P; 07-18-2006 at 12:54 AM.
07-18-2006, 01:23 AM
#9
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I would park it till you get the radiator done. Then baby it till you get it tuned, no boost at all. Bob knows a lot to say the least, its sure to cool down some after the tune.
07-18-2006, 10:14 AM
#10
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Are you in Chicago?
My stock Z06, which just has the 2nd fan coming on sooner, was hitting 201F instead of 195F which it hits in cooler weather. 220-225F is high but if you were getting in boost I would not be suprised for you to hit that. Do you still have a/c? Do you have your airdam on?
My stock Z06, which just has the 2nd fan coming on sooner, was hitting 201F instead of 195F which it hits in cooler weather. 220-225F is high but if you were getting in boost I would not be suprised for you to hit that. Do you still have a/c? Do you have your airdam on?
07-18-2006, 10:26 AM
#11
Man,you guys would freak out if you saw what a stock car runs on a scanner. 226 is pretty far from overheating, thats a nomal stock LS1 operating temp. The fans don't even turn on until 220.
Stock LS1's in vegas run about 240 degrees with the a/c in summer. I don't like getting mine that hot and will turn off the a/c if it hits over 230. My no a/c operating temp is 225 degrees during the day. Car rarely gets driven during the day here for longer than 15 mins.
Stock LS1's in vegas run about 240 degrees with the a/c in summer. I don't like getting mine that hot and will turn off the a/c if it hits over 230. My no a/c operating temp is 225 degrees during the day. Car rarely gets driven during the day here for longer than 15 mins.
07-18-2006, 10:31 AM
#13
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Also, do you have tuning? If not you need to have the fans coming on sooner. I have been running my stock radiator for six years and never ran hot. After a pass my temps were 210-220F or so, but by the time I was parking the car cooled off big time.
07-18-2006, 02:49 PM
#15
Yea, I am in Chicago. Been prety hot here lately. It has a tune in it, but hasn't had a wideband on it. Its just a base tune so I can break the new motor in before I take it to a dyno and get a full tune. I haven't realy seen boost yet, just 1 time because I couldn't resist... The fans are programed to come on at 160.
The air dam is still there, but I am starting to think the radiator can't get much air because I do have two trans coolers mounted infront. The trans runs nice and cool though. May have to relocate one cooler.
The t-stat is brand new. Just installed it on Friday because the other one seemed to be sticking.
Is it normal for the passenger side head to get real hot? I have an Autometer water temp sensor in the passenger side head and the gauge shows about 255 degrees or so, while Autotap will show much less as the stock sensor is in the driver side head. We figured the Autometer sensor or gauge might be defective, but the passenger side head feels real hot, much hotter than the drivers side..
The air dam is still there, but I am starting to think the radiator can't get much air because I do have two trans coolers mounted infront. The trans runs nice and cool though. May have to relocate one cooler.
The t-stat is brand new. Just installed it on Friday because the other one seemed to be sticking.
Is it normal for the passenger side head to get real hot? I have an Autometer water temp sensor in the passenger side head and the gauge shows about 255 degrees or so, while Autotap will show much less as the stock sensor is in the driver side head. We figured the Autometer sensor or gauge might be defective, but the passenger side head feels real hot, much hotter than the drivers side..
07-19-2006, 05:38 AM
#18
Sounds like there isn't enough airflow across the radiator while you are moving since it stays cool at idle but not at speed. I would pull the fans off and take it for a spin at 60mph or higher and see if the temps cool down.That would point at the fan shroud blocking the air.(just make sure you don't get stuck in traffic)
07-19-2006, 07:25 AM
#19
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I run a Be-Cool dbl core radiator & my engine stays at 180* at the track & gets up around 195 in traffic. The stock radiator is to small IMO. An LT1 (or SLP...the same thing) will help, but still may not be enough. Be-Cools come with tranny coolers built in, and if you have a stick, the LG unit comes with an engine oil cooler.
And yes, a/f AND timing can cause the engine to run hot. If you run a bunch of timing or the a/f is way off, the engine will run hotter. You could also try some Water Wetter & use synthetic oil. Another solution might be a Mezierre H2O pump. They keep the water moving like the engine is running 4500 rpm. (which can hurt you at sustained WOT)
And yes, a/f AND timing can cause the engine to run hot. If you run a bunch of timing or the a/f is way off, the engine will run hotter. You could also try some Water Wetter & use synthetic oil. Another solution might be a Mezierre H2O pump. They keep the water moving like the engine is running 4500 rpm. (which can hurt you at sustained WOT)
07-19-2006, 11:54 AM
#20
