General Maintenance & Repairs - What the hell is going on....
07-26-2006, 05:19 PM
Hey what's up got a question that hopefully someone can answer a couple of days ago when i was backing out of a parking spot my RPM's dropped down to like 300-350 and car wanted to die stopped car gave it some gas and let it sit for a couple of minutes everything was fine. Now today i get home from work and i am making my turn around and when i put it into reverse the R's dropped and the car died. Started right back up though. Does anyone know what maybe causing this to happen and why only in Reverse. R's drop alittle in Drive but only to like 500 and idels fine. sorry for the long post please help.....
07-26-2006, 07:00 PM
Sounds just like when I first put my cam in my car. You don't have a untuned camshaft do you?
If not, the IAC valve might just need cleaning or possibly you got a cylinder misfiring.
07-26-2006, 07:11 PM
no cam car is stock outside off full exhaust but that has been on since dec. if i had a miss fire wouldn't it throw a ses light i had one before and the ses light was flashing like crazy thats how i new i had a miss plus car ran like shit. turned out plug wire came loose ans what is the IAC valve.
07-26-2006, 07:15 PM
The SES light will only come on for a misfire code if the PCM feels it is bad enough to harm the cats and also sometimes it will set a code, but not turn on the light. Is the vehicle idling rough?
07-26-2006, 07:31 PM
not really every once and awhile it will dip alittle to maybe 450 when i am coming to a stop like let of the gas and almost come to a stop but then goes right back up to 550 600 like normal and just sitting still with foot on brake after this happened shifting between R and D the RPM's stayed the same didn't drop this is only the second time the car has done this but within the past week.
07-26-2006, 07:38 PM
Most likely it's the IAC valve. It's on the throttle body. Take it out and clean the valve and the bore in the throttle body. It's worth a shot. Easy to do and doesn't cost anything unless you have nothing to clean it with. I use Brakekleen. Other things will work too.
07-26-2006, 07:49 PM
i'll check that out tomorrow i get paid and nothing to clean it with right now BROKE..... thanks for your help i really appreciate it and hopefully that is the prob if not you'll see me back on here with another post or pulling this one back up... thanks again
07-27-2006, 05:08 PM
He's right about throwing codes - don't trust the SES light. It pretty much comes on in extreme situations, but it will tolerate a little stumbling or missing. You will probably be able to tell sooner than the computer when something starts to go wrong. It could be something as easy as your wires going if they are old, even just one wire arcing a little will start to make it jumpy. Try the IAC first though no doubt. Quick and easy.
07-27-2006, 06:23 PM
thanks man i appreciate the responses wires have about 67000 on them now stock wires you think they would go that soon though. and the IAC i am doing tomorrow they had to hold our checks at work due to a system error so i'll have the extra money tomorrow. for some cleaner
07-27-2006, 07:22 PM
Wondering if the car is at normal operating temps when this is happening.
I know you said you started it and it died at idle, but wondering if it was still at temp.
The reason I ask is mine was doing something very similar but it would run ok in open loop before it warmed up.
07-28-2006, 06:18 AM
yeah car was still at opp. temp just drove home from work 30 miles and on a major highway so average speed is about 70. and car runs fine all the time no lag or bog nothing even before car warms up to opp. temp. just these two hick-ups so far.
07-28-2006, 11:24 AM
This is based on what was going on with mine, so it may not be the same issue(s)....
If you have access to a scanner, check your O2 sensors- I had a fwd one start to fail that was sensing a lean condition that wasn't there- made the car run WAY too rich and idle like crap. Quick check is to see if you are blowing black smoke at idle- best is with AC on and in drive to load it and see if it's smoking. The car SHOULD see the load and maintain a constant idle and adjust for rich/lean conditions.
A fail code may not be set or give you a SES light, look at the scanner to see what the sensors are actually reading. Based on how many miles you have on your car, it (O2 sensors) could be the culprit (along with your CATS if you still have them).
The final fix for mine was replacing the entire PCM :eek2: but my symptoms were more elaborate....
07-28-2006, 11:53 AM
yeah no cats got rid of them a couple months ago with header and ory install by scanner you mean the hand held ones that auto zone uses if so my buddy has one i'll get him to come over this weekend to check it out. And if so i thought the scaners only read if there is a SES light on not for things that maybe stored in the comp. but didn't throw the light again man thanks for all the insights and tips to try out
07-29-2006, 05:29 PM
Alright well i did the IAC valve today and am going to be taking the car out tonight so well see what happens i'll keep posted as to if it does it again but i'll keep my fingers crossed LOL
08-05-2006, 10:50 AM
thanks for your help HeapaShifter been a week now and car is still running like a champ
08-05-2006, 06:04 PM
You're welcome. :)