Wheels & Tires - put on 315s and now a theres problem

ok so i clearanced everything in the fender wells and the wheels and tires fit perfect. i have a umi adjustble tq arm and sport line spring kit, umi controll arms, panhard bar, and sfc's which are all adjustable and cm. now my problem is i started driving it and over every dip or bump in the road, and when i floor it a loud rubbing/cluncking (not my tires) orrcurs. i know th sportline rear springs are very soft but i nevr had this problem with my stock wheels. sounds as if my driveshaft is rubbing against one of th bolts that go through the adjustable rod ends on the rear of the tq arm. i tried jacking the car from the rear end and putting it in gear and there wasnt any noise. once i put the car down and drove it, it was fine until i hit a bump or floored it hard.....has anyone had any similar problems?

bump stop maybe?

Its the torque arm in the rear hitting the tunnel, this is very common. The Sportline springs are just way to low and soft. So installing them is allow the body to be pretty much resting on the torque arm, now when you hit a bump or get on the throttle the rear end is squating and allow the tunnel come down on the arm. If you crawl under the vehicle and look at the rear bracket of the torque arm and to the drivers side up the tunnel you will see where the torque arm is putting a small dent into the tunnel. The solution is take a hammer under there and pound that dent in a few times to clearance for the torque arm. You can also use your adjustable panhard bar and tweak the rear end to the passenger side slightly to get it away from the drivers tunnel. Again this is very common, if I can help anymore please ask.

Thanks!
Ryan

Its the torque arm in the rear hitting the tunnel, this is very common. The Sportline springs are just way to low and soft. So installing them is allow the body to be pretty much resting on the torque arm, now when you hit a bump or get on the throttle the rear end is squating and allow the tunnel come down on the arm. If you crawl under the vehicle and look at the rear bracket of the torque arm and to the drivers side up the tunnel you will see where the torque arm is putting a small dent into the tunnel. The solution is take a hammer under there and pound that dent in a few times to clearance for the torque arm. You can also use your adjustable panhard bar and tweak the rear end to the passenger side slightly to get it away from the drivers tunnel. Again this is very common, if I can help anymore please ask.

Thanks!
Ryan

I am also having the same problem. Hopefully this is it.

MY TA hit the tunnel after lowering . . .

Might not be that way on all cars though. Mine is on Sportlines with a Spohn Adj. TA, and I dont hit at all. (I dont know how different UMI's TA is from Spohn's) No BFH mods on the tunnel either.

How are your shocks? Did you replace them when you installed the Sportlines?

ya i was somewhat aware of this specific problem as i did notice a little dent up in the tunnel at the front of the tq arm but this isnt the noise im talking about. that noise is usually when i shift hard or downshift hard. this noise is constant because when i floor it and squat the car it will make the hitting noise up until i release the gas. and while i floor it and go over humps/dips in the road the noise gets louder and harder. if you look at the rear of the driveshaft by the joint you can see that it is kind of an oval shape and it looks to me as if the top/bottom of the oval part when it spins comes in contact with the huge nuts...haha... that attach the rod ends of the tq arm to the rear mount. i just dont gt why this would be happenning after i put wheels with 315s on? if this is really whats happening?

bIts the torque arm in the rear hitting the tunnel, this is very common. The Sportline springs are just way to low and soft. So installing them is allow the body to be pretty much resting on the torque arm, now when you hit a bump or get on the throttle the rear end is squating and allow the tunnel come down on the arm. If you crawl under the vehicle and look at the rear bracket of the torque arm and to the drivers side up the tunnel you will see where the torque arm is putting a small dent into the tunnel. The solution is take a hammer under there and pound that dent in a few times to clearance for the torque arm. You can also use your adjustable panhard bar and tweak the rear end to the passenger side slightly to get it away from the drivers tunnel. Again this is very common, if I can help anymore please ask.

Thanks!
Ryan

I don't see how swapping the tires and wheels would affect your pinion angle if that's what your saying. Have you swapped out the LCA's? maybe a set of adjustable LCA's could help bring the rear end up and forward a little to keep in from binding under a load. That's what it sounds like to me but I still can't see how tires and rims would affect it. Just a thought

ya i have adjustable umi control arms too and i believe you are supposed to lengthen them when you lower as low as the sportlines lowered me and i did that. pinion angle im not sure what im at but hey i have no vibrations at speed like a lot of other people have when lowering so who knows. as of my wheels and tires, i just put the stock back ones back on and no noise????? do wider tires cause more of a load on the rear suspension somehow? i mean more of a contact patch so more weight to disperse or really to absorb from the ground? i dunno im confusing myself but as for wheel clearance everything is perfect with the rims and tires just like i said sounds like the back end of my driveshaft is knocking on one of the bolts of the tq arm or if my pinion angle is really bad would it cause this type of banging noise? i mean everything was fine when i first put the wheels on. then i floored it for the 1st time and the noise came....

anyone?

i started getting more noise after i put 315's on my TA, i think it might be my rod end PHR, so i'm looking for a poly ended PHR and i'm gonna see if that fixes my noise. It sounds kinda like a clunk like the rod end clunking from one side to the other, it wasn't as noticable until i put the 315's on, i dont understand why either.

just think i found my problem....whent under and took the tq arm off to get a bettr view of what possibly could be hitting and what i see is the inside of the driveshaft loop on the upper side is all scraped and no more powdercoating!!! looks to me as if the driveshaft loop is just 1/4-1/2 inch too low on the xmember and doesnt allow upward movement of my driveshaft when i go over bumps. round 3...had a UMI cross member mounted tq arm that snapped at the weld (crossmember only) when i nailed a manhole cover that was raised out of the road and they sent me this one that now is giving me clearance problems. they were easy to deal with and i had the part in 3 days and all there other stuff seems to be great as i have it all but this damn tq arm keeps giving me problems...gonna call tomorow and hopefully they replace it free of charge if i send this one back.

just think i found my problem....whent under and took the tq arm off to get a bettr view of what possibly could be hitting and what i see is the inside of the driveshaft loop on the upper side is all scraped and no more powdercoating!!! looks to me as if the driveshaft loop is just 1/4-1/2 inch too low on the xmember and doesnt allow upward movement of my driveshaft when i go over bumps. round 3...had a UMI cross member mounted tq arm that snapped at the weld (crossmember only) when i nailed a manhole cover that was raised out of the road and they sent me this one that now is giving me clearance problems. they were easy to deal with and i had the part in 3 days and all there other stuff seems to be great as i have it all but this damn tq arm keeps giving me problems...gonna call tomorow and hopefully they replace it free of charge if i send this one back.

The loop on the the new cross member you have is in the same exact location as the old cross member you had. Sending out another one won't fix that, they are both welded on the same jig. Are you sure when you hit the man holes it didn't bend the mounting points of the torque arm mount? I bet this is the problem, to hit a man hole hard enough to break a weld I am suprised it didn't tear the mounts right off the floor. I really suggest getting under the car first and checking to see if the mounts are bent down or up or even tore from the car or twisted? Also is this is a larger drive shaft, 3.5"?

Ryan

ya i have adjustable umi control arms too and i believe you are supposed to lengthen them when you lower as low as the sportlines lowered me and i did that. pinion angle im not sure what im at but hey i have no vibrations at speed like a lot of other people have when lowering so who knows. as of my wheels and tires, i just put the stock back ones back on and no noise????? do wider tires cause more of a load on the rear suspension somehow? i mean more of a contact patch so more weight to disperse or really to absorb from the ground? i dunno im confusing myself but as for wheel clearance everything is perfect with the rims and tires just like i said sounds like the back end of my driveshaft is knocking on one of the bolts of the tq arm or if my pinion angle is really bad would it cause this type of banging noise? i mean everything was fine when i first put the wheels on. then i floored it for the 1st time and the noise came....

Also, the only time you need to lengthen the lower control arms is when you need clearance for a larger tire, 29" slick and bigger. Even if you lower the car you want to adjust the panhard bar to re-center the axle side to side, not the control arms. The control arms will not change pinion angle, they will just change the location of the rear end. I suggest also setting this back to stock length, if one was longer then the other it might be binding the rear end. If you want call us tomorrow and talk with Jerry, he is good with this.

Thanks,
Ryan

ya i went under and the frame mounts for the tq arm are straight and still on the car. the only problem i had was a bolt being snapped in one of the mounting holes. i do have your dbl diamond sfcs which do lower the tq arm mount by about 1/8 inch which would affect the clearance of the DS loop by 1/8". i will go back and shorten my LCAs to stock length as i was wrong with that but they did not contribute to this problem as ive had them adjusted like they are now since i put everything on at the same time with no problems. what is stock length BTW? i got rid of my stock control arms...it is currently a stock driveshaft but wont be for long.

side tracking a little, what should i have my pinion angle set to with my car being lowered approx 2" all around?