Thinking about new Moser 9"
07-31-2006, 10:29 PM
#1
Thinking about new Moser 9" Been thinking about a new rear for the car. Not going to repair the current one if it goes out again and it seems to maybe be on the way. So a Moser 9" looks to be the choice. The big question is the diff. Should I go with a tru-trac or a detroit locker? Leaning towards the locker.
$2500 delivered from EPP isn't a bad price.
$2500 delivered from EPP isn't a bad price.
07-31-2006, 10:49 PM
#2
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Been thinking about a new rear for the car. Not going to repair the current one if it goes out again and it seems to maybe be on the way. So a Moser 9" looks to be the choice. The big question is the diff. Should I go with a tru-trac or a detroit locker? Leaning towards the locker.
$2500 delivered from EPP isn't a bad price.
$2500 delivered from EPP isn't a bad price.
I have a link (somewhere) to a place that was selling the axle/housing packages less than 900. I'll see if I can dig it up if you're interested.
Mike
08-01-2006, 09:09 AM
#4
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After installing one, I wouldn't even consider buying a unit that wasn't specifically designed for an F-body. Unless you are a heck of a welder & fabricator.
As for which posi, it's all about what you plan to do & what you can live with. A locker is stronger, but it's going to make noise going around corners too. A spool is stronger yet. The True Trac is supposed to be the best of all worlds. When my Eaton/Auburn posi goes (whichever it is) that is what I'm putting in. They are strong enough to hold up to drag racing, and yet turn free enough for road racing.
As for which posi, it's all about what you plan to do & what you can live with. A locker is stronger, but it's going to make noise going around corners too. A spool is stronger yet. The True Trac is supposed to be the best of all worlds. When my Eaton/Auburn posi goes (whichever it is) that is what I'm putting in. They are strong enough to hold up to drag racing, and yet turn free enough for road racing.
08-01-2006, 10:07 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
After installing one, I wouldn't even consider buying a unit that wasn't specifically designed for an F-body. Unless you are a heck of a welder & fabricator.
08-01-2006, 10:48 AM
#6
I would NOT get a locker for an M6 car... I'm learning that the hard way. The slack in the drivetrain is too much for an M6 car on a drag strip launch... hits the tires all at once... it would be a great compromise between a posi and a spool for an all-out A4 drag car that can pre-load the drivetrain, but for us who have to go from static to full RPMs, not so good. I can only hook when they lay the VHT down... no VHT, forget it, won't get better than a 2.0 60' even on my 27" ET Street radials.
If I had to do it all over again, I would have gotten a spool and been done with it. But then again, I don't drive my car hardly at all on the street anymore... so a spool wouldn't bother me one bit.
If I had to do it all over again, I would have gotten a spool and been done with it. But then again, I don't drive my car hardly at all on the street anymore... so a spool wouldn't bother me one bit.
08-01-2006, 10:59 AM
#7
Good info guys. Wasnt real sure about the locker, I just want this to be as bullet proof as possible. As far as buying the stuff seperate I'm not real sure what to buy so I dont want to make any mistakes. I know a fully assembled unit will come with a warranty and thats kind of appealing to me but so is saving money.
Question for anyone who can answer it. If my posi was going out would it rob me of power? Trying to look at and figure out why my trap speed was so slow. At my power level I should be trapping around 120 I'm told. I found a broken egr tube, could that have been the only cause? Sucking air before the 02 causing it to run rich maybe plus it was vibrating back and forth maybe causing KR as well?
Question for anyone who can answer it. If my posi was going out would it rob me of power? Trying to look at and figure out why my trap speed was so slow. At my power level I should be trapping around 120 I'm told. I found a broken egr tube, could that have been the only cause? Sucking air before the 02 causing it to run rich maybe plus it was vibrating back and forth maybe causing KR as well?
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08-01-2006, 11:05 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
I would NOT get a locker for an M6 car... I'm learning that the hard way. The slack in the drivetrain is too much for an M6 car on a drag strip launch... hits the tires all at once... it would be a great compromise between a posi and a spool for an all-out A4 drag car that can pre-load the drivetrain, but for us who have to go from static to full RPMs, not so good. I can only hook when they lay the VHT down... no VHT, forget it, won't get better than a 2.0 60' even on my 27" ET Street radials.
If I had to do it all over again, I would have gotten a spool and been done with it. But then again, I don't drive my car hardly at all on the street anymore... so a spool wouldn't bother me one bit.
If I had to do it all over again, I would have gotten a spool and been done with it. But then again, I don't drive my car hardly at all on the street anymore... so a spool wouldn't bother me one bit.
08-01-2006, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
Personally, I'd buy the axle/housing package and build your own center chunk or have a center chunk built locally. You could get that package and put in a POS center chunk that would be stronger than the stock 10 bolt and you'd have less than 1500.00 into it. But then again,,,, what the heck do I know lol.. ?
I have a link (somewhere) to a place that was selling the axle/housing packages less than 900. I'll see if I can dig it up if you're interested.
Mike
I have a link (somewhere) to a place that was selling the axle/housing packages less than 900. I'll see if I can dig it up if you're interested.
Mike
you can beef up the stock 10 bolt all you want, but it still won't be able to compare to a 9" or a 12 bolt simply because its smaller...
08-01-2006, 11:18 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by fastest94v6
you can beef up the stock 10 bolt all you want, but it still won't be able to compare to a 9" or a 12 bolt simply because its smaller...
08-01-2006, 11:44 AM
#11
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Good info guys. Wasnt real sure about the locker, I just want this to be as bullet proof as possible. As far as buying the stuff seperate I'm not real sure what to buy so I dont want to make any mistakes. I know a fully assembled unit will come with a warranty and thats kind of appealing to me but so is saving money.
Question for anyone who can answer it. If my posi was going out would it rob me of power? Trying to look at and figure out why my trap speed was so slow. At my power level I should be trapping around 120 I'm told. I found a broken egr tube, could that have been the only cause? Sucking air before the 02 causing it to run rich maybe plus it was vibrating back and forth maybe causing KR as well?
Question for anyone who can answer it. If my posi was going out would it rob me of power? Trying to look at and figure out why my trap speed was so slow. At my power level I should be trapping around 120 I'm told. I found a broken egr tube, could that have been the only cause? Sucking air before the 02 causing it to run rich maybe plus it was vibrating back and forth maybe causing KR as well?
At least around these parts, the trap speeds and ETs tend to be down a little bit from what you see people post in other parts of the country.
08-01-2006, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
I don't think it would cost you any speed... I broke the spider gears in my Eaton HD 12 bolt posi on the launch when I ran one of my fastest times (12.17 @ 114 and change).
At least around these parts, the trap speeds and ETs tend to be down a little bit from what you see people post in other parts of the country.
At least around these parts, the trap speeds and ETs tend to be down a little bit from what you see people post in other parts of the country.
08-01-2006, 12:14 PM
#14
The complete setup is what makes drag racing... which is why you will see a lower power car often take a higher power car to the woodshed. 
Suspension is huge at your power level... without the proper drag racing suspension, tires, etc, you aren't going to run good times.
Also, what kind of a launch are you using? For an M6, you really have to hammer that thing off the line and hook in order to run a good time. I'm talking 5+k clutch dump and a dead hook.
As for your trap speeds, don't know what to tell you... that does sound low, around here I would expect you to trap around 117, maybe 118 or so... 120 is probably a little much to expect around here. Doesn't have to be the car though... could be the driver. How are you shifting? Hard? Easy? Lifting foot off gas? What RPM are you shifting at? Might be leaving a couple mph on the table if you're shifting too early.
Also, with your power level I would think a 4.10 gear would be optimum... 3.73s will probably drop you right out of your power band on each shift.
Here's my advice for a fellow M6 driver... 4.10s, drag racing suspension, a drivetrain that will take a 5k+ clutch dumps all day long and not blink, tires you can dead hook on, and shifting like you're trying to break something. You'll run some good times, or blow something up, guaranteed.
Suspension is huge at your power level... without the proper drag racing suspension, tires, etc, you aren't going to run good times.
Also, what kind of a launch are you using? For an M6, you really have to hammer that thing off the line and hook in order to run a good time. I'm talking 5+k clutch dump and a dead hook.
As for your trap speeds, don't know what to tell you... that does sound low, around here I would expect you to trap around 117, maybe 118 or so... 120 is probably a little much to expect around here. Doesn't have to be the car though... could be the driver.
How are you shifting? Hard? Easy? Lifting foot off gas? What RPM are you shifting at? Might be leaving a couple mph on the table if you're shifting too early.Also, with your power level I would think a 4.10 gear would be optimum... 3.73s will probably drop you right out of your power band on each shift.
Here's my advice for a fellow M6 driver... 4.10s, drag racing suspension, a drivetrain that will take a 5k+ clutch dumps all day long and not blink, tires you can dead hook on, and shifting like you're trying to break something. You'll run some good times, or blow something up, guaranteed.
08-01-2006, 12:38 PM
#15
Well I'm not hooking off the line but I dont think you can drive it any harder without breaking something. Trying to shift at 6k. I know my suspension isn't setup for drag racing but 13.39 at 108 is still not right. I might not see 11's without the juice but 12's shouldnt be out of the question at all. Maybe my o2 sensors are going as well? I dont have a WB so I really dont know what the af is other than what it dynoed at in feb.
08-01-2006, 12:46 PM
#16
I'm thinking 6k is too low... get yourself a shift light (if you don't have one already) and set it for around 6300 rpms. This should mean you make the actual shift at 6400-6500 rpms. With ported heads and a relatively mild camshaft, that should be about what you shift at. If you're shifting say 500 rpms early, with 3.73 gears, you really are taking yourself way out of the powerband on each shift... and then the car has to climb back into it (which it isn't doing as fast as it would with 4.10s).
I say give the increased RPMs a try next time out... might surprise yourself by picking up quite a bit of MPH and some ET to match.
I say give the increased RPMs a try next time out... might surprise yourself by picking up quite a bit of MPH and some ET to match.
08-01-2006, 12:49 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
The complete setup is what makes drag racing... which is why you will see a lower power car often take a higher power car to the woodshed.
08-01-2006, 12:52 PM
#18
I bought a tach w/light. New mini monster but I'm having trouble setting the light. Already talked to Auto Meter about it and they admit to a problem with the first batch but think I can work thru it and not have to return it. JMFL ! And then the egr tube broke of the header so I need to get that repaired. I should be racing again a week from friday hopefully.
08-01-2006, 01:15 PM
#20
Looking at that graph, if you drop your RPMs to 4k on your shift, you're going down to what, 280rwhp? Yeah... that's not good. That means you're trying to climb a long way back to your 440 rwhp peak. You want to stay as close to that peak as possible... and from the looks of it, you're peaking right about 6000 rpms, maybe even 6100-6200. Judging by that graph, I'd almost increase that shift point up even further than I said originally... maybe making the shift at 6600-6700 rpms. That would probably take you down into the 5k range on the shift, which would be more ideal.
