Stereo & Electronics - Would these be good replacements for factory Subs?

Pretty much what title says, would the blaupunkt THx 652 be a good replacement for the factory monsoon subs? I wanna replace all my speakers, but keep the factory look.

http://www.blaupunkt.com/us/7606200230_main.asp

no they do not have enough watts of RMS thats the actual power it will put out the higher that is the more bass you get look for like a 150 watt RMS speaker

Pretty much what title says, would the blaupunkt THx 652 be a good replacement for the factory monsoon subs? I wanna replace all my speakers, but keep the factory look.

http://www.blaupunkt.com/us/7606200230_main.asp
Bypass factory monsoon junk subs and go with stealth 10" sub box. :thumb: http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm

no they do not have enough watts of RMS thats the actual power it will put out the higher that is the more bass you get look for like a 150 watt RMS speaker

Um, no. The RMS power handling number only tells you how much power the voice coil can absorb before it melts. The sensitivity of the speaker, the frequency responce of the speaker, the mechanical limits of the suspension, the enclosure, and the power handling all need to be looked at to determine how loud and low a sub driver will go.

That said, these won't go low enough to make good subs. There are a number of guys who have put 8's in and claim good results, or do as Kage suggests and get a stealth box.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2329000-2329999/2329723_32.jpg

Any details on the install of those 8's??

if you get some, i might want to buy your old sail panel subs if you want to sell them

Any details on the install of those 8's??

it's on page three or four of this thread.

sgt 704's got the right idea you dont really wanna pull the sub for a coaxial .. to improve the low range you need to replace the factory woofer with another subwoofer .. that said dont expect to wake the neghibors with just that replacement 8's and only do so much and the stock amps will only play so low ....


conversly, if you do decide to add a subdoofer in back, then mabye putting coaxials in the subwoofer location might not be a bad idea so long as you use the read speaker signal and another amplifer to send them a full range signal.. if you dont want to mess with the factory wireing or amps though just find yourself a set of really senstive woofers that have dual 2 ohn coils..also i wouldent about rms too much because using the factory amp you couldent pop a pyle woofer ;) there simply aint that much power to worry about thermal handeling

o yea and being there is a usually an inverse relationship between rms and senstivity i would look for a low rms woofer (not crappy) but like i said before *usually* higher rms woofers tend to have lower senstivitys due to the more beefer motor structure .. last i checked rf had a nice set of woofers that mounted in that location .. dont know if their stil for sale as its been 4 yrs since i messed with my audio setup..

just remember dual 2 ohm colis
and make sure it fits (including the low mounting depth)
no coxials (no need for high range since that speaker only gets a mid bass signal)

No I didn't read this entire thread, sorry.

If you want to keep the factory look just buy the same size speakers and make damn sure the depth, height and diameter/mounting pattern are the same. I think mounting height is the most ignored dimension of all so check it out. Depth is important too. I went Infinity Kappa all around. Pioneer Premeir HU and two Alpine 4 channel MRV-F345 amps. Oh and one Kappa Perfect 10" is on the way. If you ignore the head unit and sub part you can do the same thing and not see ANYTHING. I'd replace the amp and HU because they are total junk.