TS6

iTrader: (41)

My car is still running hot, got the ATI supplied fan and shroud and 160 stat with EWP. Fan is set to come on at the lower temperature. Fan is turning the correct direction. Coolant system seems to be full and clean, brand new motor. I do still have the A/C but obviously cannot use it. The car will run 220 just cruising around not getting on it and its not even hot here, it was below 80 yesterday doing this. I even took it out last night when it was cooler and still ran 208, turned the heater on and dropped to 206. This sucks not being able to drive it. I'm not big on driving it in 90+ degree weather anyway, but 80 and below is good for being out and this thing is still hot.

I've read a ton on different solutions and ideas, but some were old and some hadn't been tested very well. Ideas ranged from bigger radiators, dual fans, better single fan, pusher fan(s), etc. What is the best fix? I would like to able to use the A/C at least on the open road.

I saw pictures of cars using the dual Be cool 11" fans and some added a 9" fan to the driver side of the ATI shroud, but I think I have even less space than normal due to still having the power steering cooler and my piping. I just need some monster fans I think, my fmic is blocking most of the opening in my (cut out) front bumper, and after going through the fmic the air still has to go through the tranny cooler and condenser.

Please help!!! Should I just order the SDCE fan assembly and be done? Will it even fit with the PS cooler in place?

CHRISPY

This is a little extreme but will work the best imo.

1) Buy a hood pin kit
2) Cut out the rad support and move the rad/condensor forward till you can fit the stock fans
3) create a new front rad support and paint

With the 408 and the blower an upgraded rad might be an option as well. Depending on what you decide you can buy a shorter unit as well.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

I'm going to try the small 9" puller fan on the ATI shroud for now, hopefully that will work, but I doubt it'll let me use the A/C.

SVC707

iTrader: (33)

I dont get it i was so worried about that myself. I have just started driving my setup. but have not experienced overheating issues. i only have the factory radiator and the one fan supplied with kit. i only wired the one wire just incase id be putting a second, from all ive read. but with the factory gauge i am still below the mark of the 200, i think it is. i have to look at the gauge.
i run mainly water with waterwetter, ewp, 160 tstat. but no ac condensor or heater.
i have gone on a three hour straight drive and a twisty backroads drive which was about 1.5 hrs each way rpms ranged from 1500-3000 constant in the back roads

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

I went with the 9'' inch spal and have been driving around town w/AC in 103+ weather. My temperature moves up a tad, but not enough to worry about.

topfig1

iTrader: (5)

I have heard of folks going with this SDCE setup. Hopefully the link works, if not copy to your browser. I will be buying this during the fall because I too deal with overheating issues. Good luck. http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...56ee828b28dbe2

Fig

TS6

iTrader: (41)

If you're using the factory gauge you're asking for trouble. Mine stays to the left of 210 all the time, even at 220 degrees. The factory gauge (except for 98's) is an idiot light, it doesn't read the real temps.

I'll order the 9" fan tomorrow, for like $80 its worth a shot!

Also I think my condensor is one of the main reasons my car runs hotter. Granted, I'm not using the A/C, but its one more thing its gotta flow through. I think I'll also remove the tranny lines from the radiator and just use the cooler I have, maybe another in series with it.

SVC707

iTrader: (33)

ive seen it go past before when i had an oem water pump.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Clue me in, what is the problem. Is the radiator blocked now, or you are not running enough fan? I always see these threads but am unclear on what is wrong.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

My 402 w/D-1SC runs 190-ish all the time. I have the single ATI fan, but I have a dbl core Be-Cool rad & the Mezierre H2O pump. Works great for my car....but it's a TIGHT fit!

TS6

iTrader: (41)

The real problem is ATI uses a shroud that blocks about 1/3 of the radiator and switches from the stock dual fans to one fan. Its just not enough, especially when you use a fmic and still have the condensor in the car. The air has to go through both of those before hitting the radiator, and my fmic is blocking most of the opening anyway. I do still have my airdam, and might try playing around with shortening it up or something, but most of the driving I do is in town and therefor mostly stop and go traffic.

I'm sure removing the A/C would help alot, but thats why I went ATI vs. turbo, I want my A/C. I think its just a lack of enough airflow from the fan. We'll see if the 9" fan helps, it seems to have worked for some others.

SVC707

iTrader: (33)

do you still have the plastic piece in front of the condensor? i dont have that one there. that will give you a bit more air too

TS6

iTrader: (41)

No, its gone. In fact, most of the underside of the front bumper is gone to make room for the FMIC. If you look at a stock car, the nose and the airdam form together to make a scoop for the cooling system, and that plastic peice keeps the air where it needs to be. But on mine, all the "scoop" area has been used up by the ic. So now the air has to come from the front of the car, where it passes through alot of **** before getting the the radiator.

SVC707

iTrader: (33)

ok was just seeing mine is all gone too as i also have a fmic 4" core. i do still have the one strip that bolts to the bottom radiator support to guidesome air though

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Have you tried using a scan tool to see what your temps really are? Beating on a car running hot is a good way to get some detonation. With the power I'm pushing I want it to be safe!

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

How do you know its 190? EFI Live shows mine between 200-220. I wish it would stay below 200

I run the SLP radiator, 160 and Meizere.

smoke20

iTrader: (2)

at what temp do you consider a car running hot???? 210 is in the normal range for an ls1 eng so im confused, at what temp
are you guys trying to get the eng to run at???

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Still running air dams right?

SSmokin 01

iTrader: (14)

I fixed my cooling issues by making my own shroud out of a piece of 1/4" Lexan, some lengths 1/8 x 3/4 and 1/8 x 2 aluminum 90 degree for the frame, 1 piece of steel flat stock 1/8 x 1/2 for the center rib, 1 stock fan, 1 12" Permacool low profile fan, foam insulation,metal tape, some screws, nuts, and fender washers. I have about $130 in it with the parts. Just took a little time to make.

Perma-Cool PN:771-19122, 13-3/4''x12-1/2'', Thickness: 2-3/4'': Motor RPM: 3000, Amp Draw: 6.0, CFM: 1200, Fuse: 30 amp.

Welding the frame together would have been a little easier except I don't have access to a tig. I also didn't feel like waiting to find a shop to do it or find somewhere to bend me a shroud. Just got the "bug" in me one day to find a solution and acted on it.

My A/C is out only because I lost a belt one time and it ate the A/C idler pullies. Just never replaced them since I never used it anyway.
Moved the bottom of the radiator forward 1/4" and tilted the top as far forward as it would go. It's tight but it just clears my SDCE tensioner. Metal taped the lexan where it comes in contact with the radiator and used the foam insulation around the edges of the holes in order to seal the fans to the shroud.

Temps used to sit at 200-220 in the summer (90-100 deg) and take forever to come down.
Now it stays around 185-195 in the same weather. The temps rise to 205-210 when I romp on it but they come right back down.

I'll pull the sticker off , paint the steel piece, and just clean it up next time I'm in there messing around. It might not be the prettiest but it gets the job done.


Just took these shots when I saw the thread. Sorry for some of the odd angles. I was "blind" shooting from underneath the car.

Don't mind the dirt. She's due for a thorough cleaning.

mondi2002

iTrader: (11)

Right now I think my engine is running too cool.
Engine Temp is not Air Intake temp.
LS1's are known to run better hot & then that isssue of
burning the condinsation out of the oil. (not sure I believe)
I drive an hour to the track go straight to the lanes
and I always get my fastest run. Progressively gets slower
as the engine cools. I am thinking of going to the stock thermostat.