First track runs with DIY turbo
08-20-2006, 09:23 PM
#1
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First track runs with DIY turbo Finally made it to the track yesterday, here is my best run:
60' - 2.17
1/8 - 7.61
1/8 - 103
1/4 - 11.32
1/4 - 133
Still on stock shortblock
6.0 heads with springs/studs , 3:42 10 bolt. Everything else is in my sig. I'm not making boost as fast as I feel it should, around 2# at launch, 4# at 330', 10# at 1/8, and 12# at 1/4.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance !
60' - 2.17
1/8 - 7.61
1/8 - 103
1/4 - 11.32
1/4 - 133
Still on stock shortblock
6.0 heads with springs/studs , 3:42 10 bolt. Everything else is in my sig. I'm not making boost as fast as I feel it should, around 2# at launch, 4# at 330', 10# at 1/8, and 12# at 1/4. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance !
08-20-2006, 09:37 PM
#2
Killer mph! I was going to recommend a little looser converter, but the PY3600E is one of the best. You'll probably want to invest in a two step to be able to flat foot it on the line. Maybe this will help you build more consistent boost on the starting line. Otherwise, have Yank loosen that converter some or spray out of the hole. 
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2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
08-21-2006, 01:15 PM
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Bad thing is, I was dead hooking 
It seems to make less than stock power before the 330' ,thats why I'm asking for input. I have 2 hunches:
1) Super low timing (8.5 total)
2) 3:42 rear
The tuner kept the timing low because of boost-creep, trying to keep the stock shortblock alive.
It seems to make less than stock power before the 330' ,thats why I'm asking for input. I have 2 hunches:1) Super low timing (8.5 total)
2) 3:42 rear
The tuner kept the timing low because of boost-creep, trying to keep the stock shortblock alive.
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08-21-2006, 03:41 PM
#14
Can you punch it from a dead stop and burn em? With the procharger I could, with the GT42 I couldn't....could be just my car though. As for burning out at the track, it takes a lil more effort to get em to spin with the turbo than it did with the procharger.
But stalling it up at the line between the two is night and day. If I stalled it up past 2600 with the procharger it'd spin em hard. With the turbo stalling it up to 2600 results in a 2.12 on up(60fts), it would just hook and go, just like you described, no spinning.
2 step is my next big buy....
But stalling it up at the line between the two is night and day. If I stalled it up past 2600 with the procharger it'd spin em hard. With the turbo stalling it up to 2600 results in a 2.12 on up(60fts), it would just hook and go, just like you described, no spinning.
2 step is my next big buy....
08-21-2006, 04:11 PM
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Why are you worried about boost creep? What size wastegate are you running? That turbine will probably always be lazy, something in the .85 range would hit alot better out of the hole with a little sacrifice on top end. The low timong is probably helping to build boost off the line though. On my last turbo car (with AEM ECU) I would retard about 20 degrees of timing (total timing of about 0) when my foot was on the brake which would let me get up to about 7psi at the tree. Once I let go of the brake, full timing was restored and I could hit full boost of about 20psi by the end of first gear.
Are there any aftermarket two steps which will allow timing retard instead of cutting cylinders? A lot of retard will put more heat into the exhaust than dropping cylinders.
Are there any aftermarket two steps which will allow timing retard instead of cutting cylinders? A lot of retard will put more heat into the exhaust than dropping cylinders.
