View Full Version : Nitrous Activation: Would you spray below 3,000 RPM?


Villain281H
08-21-2006, 11:28 AM
PLEASE READ THE THREAD/POLL 1ST POST BEFORE YOU VOTE!!

Okay, the majority of opinions I've heard are do not activate nitrous below 3,000 RPM or major damage can result (blown intake, etc). I'm looking for those with LS1 experience with a car you own/owned, or a car you have worked on or know fairly well with nitrous. Please share your experiences (good or bad) and whether youd activate a nitrous system below 3,000 on a stock stall converter (or even a mild stall 2500-3000 converter). I'd like to stay away from hearsay (for example: "I know this guy posting on this board that has done this blah blah...") because that's how general opinions are created, which I already know. I want actual experiences from people that actually worked on or raced these cars.

The thread about the nitrous system Im using and results is here: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560804 (http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560804)

Thanks for the help!

Derek

COMNBYU
08-21-2006, 11:48 AM
You already know my answer;)

Again GL with your car.


Jon




EDIT: My actual experience (since you asked) is this. Started out with a 150 shot on a completely stock car. At first I didn't even use a WOT switch, just a button. Technique was leaving off idle. That worked fine but I would usually roll out 5-10ft before hitting the button. I knew that if I wanted to see really gain in my 60 and ET that it needed to be hit instantly off the line. I switched to a WOT switch and the end result was awsome. It took a few practice runs to get it right because you've got to be very quick about getting your foot to the floor fast, or else there will still be some hesistation. You'll actually start to roll out before the nitrous engages.

Before my WOT switch I would general 60 in the 1.7-1.8 range. My best after the switch was a 1.63 with norms in the mid-high 1.6's. This on a stock conv. 2.73 car leaving off idle.

Ran the car at the track every weekend and drove it daily during the week for over 2 years with no problems.

Villain281H
08-21-2006, 11:49 AM
You already know my answer;)
Again GL with your car.
Jon

Yep, and that's why I'm asking. Never hurts to find out if more people with the same opinion exist. Thanks again!

Derek

MrDude_1
08-21-2006, 11:55 AM
i just want to know why your engine would ever be below 3000 at WOT???

383LQ4SS
08-21-2006, 12:28 PM
3000 isnt a magic #. Its not like at 3000 youll be fine and then 2999 youll blow up instantly.

Your dealing with multiple issues here. Each is probably just as inportant as the next and youll need to understand every scenario that may happen.

1st issue is the lower you go with a wet kit the more the likelyhood of backfire in the intake. I dont care wether you think intake backfires are from puddling, or going lean or whatever the reason. The fact remians the lower you spray the higher the liklyhood. Thats not to say activation rpm is the ONLY factor. But its very high on the list of factors. Why is this? Couple things I can think of of the top of my head.

Nitrous/fuel density VS air velocity is probably one factor.
The other is intake velocity vs intake lenght from point of spray to intake valve.

Obviously the first one is universal to any car. The second one is dependant on the type of car/intake and location of wet nozzle. The second one would be a huge factor in getting on/off the throttle rapidly too.


The second issue is cylinder pressure and massive Tq spikes and its toll on part and likleyhood of detonation at that point. The lower you spray the higher the Tq the more detonation prone you are. And when you get down in the lower rpm ranges....small changes have HUGE effects. Going from 4000 as an activation point dow to 3000 is not too big a deal. But its a difference of 1000 rpm. Going from 2800 to 1800 is a HUGE deal. If you have a dyno graph of a 150 shot at 3000 rpm..and the Tq shoots to 650 rwtq at 3200 rpm and starts to taper from there....just trace that line back at the same angle to whatever rpm activation point you are thinging about and that will give you an idea of what Tq you might be seeing. The difference between 3000 and 1500 could be staggering. Especially if you were in a higher gear than 1st and ESPECIALLY if you were in a manual car or a stock stalled car. The likleyhood of engine killing detonation goes way up at this point as well. And detonation has been flagged here in previous dicussion as another likley cause for intake backfire.

So if you want to spray in the lower rpms..for whatever reason. i would just say you need to plot your goals and go over your plan with a fine tooth comb. You should be able to predict the outcome pretty closely. Then you need to think about wether that will work with pump gas and what tune. Because ultimately the octane requirements are a function of peak Tq and never peak HP. You need octane to cover your highest peak Tq since that is generally your most detonation prone area with nitrous (unless you have too much timing in another area).

In other words...if you were running a 175 shot at 3000 rpm....on pump gas and stock tune and made 575 rwtq and 525 rwhp and where just fine. Then you change the activation point to 1500 rpm...your peak Tq will go WAY up but HP will remian exactly the same. Tq would probably go over 650-700 rwtq and may well put in into an area where detonation start right at activation. and if you were on the edge before...that intital detonation at 1500-1700 rpm may continue throughout the rest of the rpm range...dooming your motor.


So if you want to spray lower than 3000 rpm....just think about the size of the shot, wet or dry, cubic inches of the motor, M6 or big stall auto, etc etc. And estimate what you think you could get away with.

75 dry on a 6.0 truck at 2000 rpm...sure..why not.

A 200 wet on a stock LS1 with a t56 in 3rd gear at 1800 rpm....not very wise.

rosm187
08-21-2006, 12:38 PM
i voted maybe.

i spray a 150 dry shot, in an auto which comes on at 2800.

i have a stock stall and come out of the hole at 1800rpms, originally i had it at 3200 rpms, but it just took forever.

i think its fairly safe, using a fpss, and it being on a WS.

860 Performance
08-21-2006, 12:40 PM
383LQ4ss, your posts rule!

I've backfired so many times at low RPMs I can't even count them. Fortuently I have an aluminum intake manifold, and nothing really happens. I just drive through it.

If I had a plastic LS1 manifold, I'd be a lot more carefull on that lower limit. It totally sucks when a plastic manifold gets blown to pieces, damaging everythng including the hood.

CuNfUzEd
08-21-2006, 01:46 PM
It is not a matter of if it will back fire at lower RPM's as much as when. The lower you activate it the more chance you have. I set my window switch at 3k. You have good velocity around that area. Reduces pooling like what was mentioned in above post.
Everyone pretty much uses that rule. IT works. I always say if it aint broke dont fix it. Get a stall and utilize your spray to its fullest potential then. Being greedy now will ultimately cost you more. Oh yeah, get a fire extinguisher.LOL

oner
08-21-2006, 02:13 PM
It is not a matter of if it will back fire at lower RPM's as much as when. The lower you activate it the more chance you have. I set my window switch at 3k. You have good velocity around that area. Reduces pooling like what was mentioned in above post.
Everyone pretty much uses that rule. IT works. I always say if it aint broke dont fix it. Get a stall and utilize your spray to its fullest potential then. Being greedy now will ultimately cost you more. Oh yeah, get a fire extinguisher.LOL
So having a stall would be considered a safety precaution on N20? I have a 3600 that foot stalls to about 2200... would that be safer than spraying out of the hole with a stock converter?

turbo86
08-21-2006, 02:35 PM
383LQ pretty much covered it. Mine is set at 3K RPMs, and it is staying there!

TwoFast4Lv
08-21-2006, 05:26 PM
Damn Villain it has been 8 years or so since I even owned a rigg with a stock converter.

Get off your wallet and get one :D

I have torn down an engine or two that was 'sneezed'. One of them was just 'Sneezed' once. It had four bent rodd's ;)

Villain281H
08-21-2006, 07:24 PM
i just want to know why your engine would ever be below 3000 at WOT???

Stock stall converter is your answer. By the 60 foot it's barely at 3 grand.

Damn Villain it has been 8 years or so since I even owned a rigg with a stock converter.

Get off your wallet and get one :D

I do have one. It's in an aerodynamically challenged green car :lol:

The Formula will get upgrades once she needs an engine overhaul, including a converter. But right now she's a DD, and I don't need to tear apart something when it's working fine with 116,000 miles on it :hail:

Derek

mrr23
08-21-2006, 08:20 PM
i'm one for the hit it as soon as you get it guys. i've hit it as low as 1500 rpms at the track with DRs and stock converter. it spun the tires. hooked at 1800 rpms. this was a 150 compucar kit. on a 99TA i have for about a month. (long story)

this car was all stock with 3.23 gears. got the car and immediately transferred the n2o from my 86TA to it. here's the timeslips all the same day one after the other.

http://www.stealthram.com/familypics/formula00/dynosheet/timeslip/hitn2osooner.jpg

i did it in both of my other cars as well. now, with the 3400 converter, the soonest i've been able to get on it is 2500 rpms. that was with 315/35-17 nitto DRs.

mrr23
08-21-2006, 08:25 PM
now, this also needs to be qualified with a what gear are you in question. in first gear, with the rpms climbing approximately 1000 rpms/second, the air is moving pretty darned fast to be an issue. now in drive and at 2000 rpms, it can be an issue.

another thing to consider is transmission. with a manual transmission, if you launch and the motor bogs to the point where the motor can't rpm upward fast enough, you might be having a problem.

vipershark11
08-21-2006, 08:51 PM
so what would you all recommend on my stock 305tbi motor with the 700r4 and stock converter because my car redlines at 5k rpms which only gives me 2k rpms to spray with could i start at like 2500 and get away with it?

mrr23
08-21-2006, 08:55 PM
your car, most likely, has the even worse 2.73 gear in it. still, if it was my car, i'd go with 2500 as a starting point. then go down from there as your heart and wallet allow. the NOS system for TBI cars comes with jetting up to 125hp.

SSDoubleK
08-21-2006, 09:40 PM
I'm spraying 100 wet at 2700, alot of posts I've read and magazine articles, tell you to shy away from spraying below 2500 rpms. I've had my A/F mixture checked with the spray and am as safe as you can be with using the spray. If your gonna play with the spray, your gonna most likely end up someday having to pay. :)

chris2000ss
08-22-2006, 06:07 AM
above 3,000 only

QUASAR
08-22-2006, 10:20 AM
its all dependant on engine load. Spraying at 1500 on a stock convertor is not the same as 1500 in a car with a higher stall as it will simply flash right up to stall speed with minimal load on the motor. Spraying that low is very risky with a stock stall but has been done by many with no problems. But even a stock stall will flash higher somwhat when sprayed that low, a stick shift car will not flash at all and that is probably the worst type of car to spray that low in.

oner
08-22-2006, 10:37 AM
its all dependant on engine load. Spraying at 1500 on a stock convertor is not the same as 1500 in a car with a higher stall as it will simply flash right up to stall speed with minimal load on the motor. Spraying that low is very risky with a stock stall but has been done by many with no problems. But even a stock stall will flash higher somwhat when sprayed that low, a stick shift car will not flash at all and that is probably the worst type of car to spray that low in.

thank you. :headbang:

Hennytime
08-22-2006, 10:58 AM
no traction, broken shit, i wouldnt risk it, i dont go bellow 3500rpms personally. if you do make sure your tune is spot on

HAULNTA
08-22-2006, 05:15 PM
The power in my cam really starts to come on at 3500 RPM so I have my window switch st at 3600.

99sprayjunkie
08-23-2006, 08:49 PM
I voted yes, as I spray my stock convertered car right out of the hole. Alot of good points have been made, but I use a progressive controller, which eliminates any torque spike, adding a nice safety margin. I still feel the worst thing that could happen is a bog(too much traction?) which will undoubtedly cause big problems... Most likely a six-speed issue however.
And why wait till the cam comes 'on' to spray? My sluggish bottom end aint sluggish at all once I hit the magic button! Keep sprayin :drive:

red fury
08-25-2006, 09:43 PM
Mine kicks on at 2800rpm @ XX% with a dry 175(flywheel) shot. I use the FJO mini-controller which is a very fun toy!!!

M6 with 3.90's on 17" DR's

Tuner: Allan Futral
Futral Motor Sports

TWS
08-25-2006, 10:52 PM
383LQ pretty much covered it. Mine is set at 3K RPMs, and it is staying there!

Yep. A few years ago I accidently sprayed somewhere around 2200-2400 RPM once. BAD IDEA. It backfired instantly, blew the internals out of the MAF and damaged some piston rings.

This was a couple motors ago, but I don't spray without a window switch and the switch is going to be 3000 or even a tad higher.

ZexZo6
08-26-2006, 01:40 PM
mine is at 3000 and works great. I also have WOT switch. I wouldn't go any lower. 383LQ4SS said every thing I would have said.

B18B1LS1
08-27-2006, 12:05 PM
I don't recommend it, but I used to do it all the time. I had a DRY 150 on a handheld pushbutton, as soon the light went last yellow my foot went to the floor and the button was pushed. I'm guessing I was activating it right at 2000 rpms on the stock stall and never had a problem. It was good for 11.3's on an otherwise stock '98 SS at 3550 lbs! But again, I don't recommend it!

98mysticZ
08-28-2006, 12:32 AM
i tell you what i had an 86 iroc with a 305 TPI motor in it with headers, small cam and a chip and sprayed a 125 dry shot out of the hole.... stock converter 700r4 for 4 years... and then i pulled the motor for a bigger one... i street raced every night and ran atleast 3 bottles through it a week and never had a problem... now that i have a ls1 i will be getting a window switch due to a 6 speed tranny for saftey.....

X_Spearmint
08-31-2006, 12:58 AM
here's another question, what temp plugs do you have in it?
I spray my 150shot around 2200(the 250shot only sees action above 3500). But I have an M6 with 3.73's, lower compression, and a new valvetrain sitting in the corner of my room waiting for me to get an aluminum intake. Plus I always have efiLIVE hooked up to my car(finally) so I can monitor what the car is doing on any given night and adjust accordingly.
I got tired of looking for a tuner and bought it myself for those of you who read the post inwhich I was looking for one. Somedays when I get ridiculed for learning so much shit I think it would be easier if I was stupid, other days I just enjoy being a genius with tutorials to read.

Villain281H
08-31-2006, 11:11 AM
here's another question, what temp plugs do you have in it?

TR6 plugs at .040 gap. I had it dyno'd with Jeremy at the helm making sure we didn't have any problems and she ran great, although b/c of the tranny kickdown from 3rd to 3nd, the pull was from about 4300 rpm on up.

Derek

B18B1LS1
08-31-2006, 09:02 PM
I ran both TR6's and TR8's gapped at .038 with about same results, good!

fastcameross
09-01-2006, 06:53 AM
I ran both TR6's and TR8's gapped at .038 with about same results, good!
same here

68LS1WANNABE
09-01-2006, 07:20 AM
What about these guys running 4000+ stalls. When you come off the line you should be close to the 3k mark already. Just get the bigger stall and be done. You could come off the line with a 100 dry shot and then hit a 150+ wet shot down the track. I say 150+ with the progressive controller.

PlowTown Missile
09-04-2006, 11:50 AM
I voted hell yeah. I didn't read everyones replies to see if someone already said it but the reason nitrous hits harder at low rpm is because the nitrous and fuel have more time to get into the cylinder than at high rpm. In an automatic car with a stock stall, go for it. On the other hand, if you have a stick and are thinking that its gonna be okay to spray from 2500rpm on up in 6th gear your gonna fuck some shit up.

1BadZo6
09-04-2006, 03:29 PM
I have seen alot of backfires.. Just my thoughts dont hit it till 3,500rpms to be safe, And you better have it floored:) Good Luck



Stephen

oange ss
09-10-2006, 09:22 PM
125rwhp wet at 2800.....

Blown 98 Z
09-10-2006, 10:55 PM
Dry 75 shot....wot and window switch set at 3200 rpm, I leave the line at 3500 rpm.

I am also running a Procharger D1, so I use the N20 to help cool the intake charge.

:)

bjamick
09-12-2006, 01:01 PM
i spray mine preety much right out of the hole i roll out a lil in 1st but when i hit it i usually spin a lil so that helps.

drkbluls1
09-12-2006, 06:00 PM
I started spraying on my car with a 2800 stall, more like 2400 when it left but I always used a WOT switch and never had a problem. as long as you know what you are doing with this stuff you can spray all day...

goshawk23
09-17-2006, 06:17 PM
i spray my truck out of the hole all the time. i have sprayed a 200 shot a few times but usually i'll stick with 150. traction is a issue as of late so i wait till i am hooked and then i spray. if my engine breaks from nitrous then so be it. i'm not gonna cry. i'll just build a new one

2001z
09-18-2006, 06:02 AM
3,000 here why take a chance ? Jut buy a convertor for you can leave harder .

Big Geek
09-18-2006, 07:24 AM
i'm one for the hit it as soon as you get it guys.

I'm with cheese, now please understand that I realize the risks and have found the limits on a few of my cars. So long as nothing bogs everything is usually good to go. However, something slips up and you are replacing the intake at the very least. Most everyone I know uses hits the button right off the line. I have found that with a TPS switch activated system that my car doesn't particularly like being activated below, 2600-rpm. I use the button to engage the second stage. If I run the second stage right off the line then I just hit it as soon as the pedal hits the floor. 3000-rpm is the standard in which most companies reccomend activating it for reasons that have been alreads stated in some of the other posts here. If you are willing to accept the risk then by all means hit it right off the line. If not then I would set it at 3000-rpm and have a happy N2O experience. Either way good luck to ya.

Jim C.

white2001s10
09-18-2006, 11:56 AM
i tell you what i had an 86 iroc with a 305 TPI motor in it with headers, small cam and a chip and sprayed a 125 dry shot out of the hole.... stock converter 700r4 for 4 years.

I see no problem there.

Wet shot + manual ain't gonna work that low.

brad8266
10-17-2006, 08:05 PM
My spray turns on at 2800, bit also keep in mind that the only time it actually sprays at that low of an rpm is in first gear, one you shift you wont go back down to 2800 again anyway.
I been spraying at that RPM for a few years now with no problems.

TwoFast4Lv
10-18-2006, 12:49 AM
LOL

well last weekend We set mine off at idle! 200RWHP at 1,000rpm. SUre scared the hell out of every one around LOL!

We were headed to the scales to wiegh the pig in(3,620) and I hit the horn because the blind lady in front of us would not merge into traffic...WEEEELLLLLLLL the Horn is the activation button and we were making tuning runs. I will bet there was at least a 1/4 inch between the two cars after it stalled to over 4,000 instantly and the car about ripped the front end off the ground ;)

TwoFast4Lv
10-19-2006, 02:21 PM
isn't this just freaking nice? This thread say I post the above post every day and have not touched it in some time!

ShiznityZ28
10-20-2006, 08:41 AM
I wouldn't recomend it to anyone who can't afford a breakage or does not want to chance it but we have sprayed cars as low as 1800. we normally would do it on an auto with a tight convertor that is not hitting the tirees hard enough. if you get the juice in early and it makes the vertor flash harder the car is not under a moving load until after 3K . like i said we have only doen this with the warning :)

BaD AZz Z28
11-16-2006, 04:31 PM
With my LT1 T56 setup, just a hotcam and shorty headers, I sprayed out of the hole ALL the time. As bad as this may sound to this thread, I actually bogged the car intentionally and used the spray to get me out of the bog.

The car was set up for handling at the time and traction was an issue. So for some late night action, I could always get the jump by launching at 1500-1800, bogging down, flipping the switch and gone. I never had a problem with that until we sprayed too low on a dyno and got a backfire. It finished the dyno run, putting down 487rwhp 571rw-tq but 3-4 months later I cracked a ring land while driving around. However, it had 119,000 on stock EVERYTHING, and the damage was so minimal that it just needed a new piston slapped back in and off she went. It wasnt the way Id set it up for anyone else, but it went 11.5s at mid 120s and beat alot of unsuspecting street racers at the time.

hugger1975
11-16-2006, 06:08 PM
175 DP

Window is 3k-6k.

You guys convinced me to keep it that way.

StreetKing
11-19-2006, 10:59 AM
Ive never had a LS1 car, but with the LT1's we sprayed 150-200 outta the hole with stock converters all the time. Never used a button, always used a wot switch. As soon as the light dropped, was on the floor with spray on, never hurt anything even when it bogged a couple times.

02 BLK WS6
11-22-2006, 02:53 PM
Roll off the line and activate. No problems with the motor. So far the tranny has gone south, 1 set of gears, and 1 carrier.

EGash
11-27-2006, 08:37 PM
With the stock convertor and stock 2.73 gears my car wouldn't get out of the hole quick enough unless I started the spray below 3K. I took it as low as 2300, never had any problems, but I was always concerned about spraying that low.

Now I have a Fuddle. I foot brake it to 1500, then it flashes to almost 4K at WOT, the window switch is now set On at 2800, but it's only there for a brief second as it flashes up. This technique works great, but as always, ymmv.

red fury
11-30-2006, 07:03 PM
IMO, if you use a progressive controller ramped on RPM you can get away with some low rpm hits due to being in control of the % of N20 being sprayed at the start RPM. I like to trickle mine in at 2600rpm with my M6 3.90 cam only setup.

If you use a window switch.....on 100% at Xrpm...I wouldn't do it with a M6.

parish8
02-17-2007, 11:29 AM
i didn't read the whole thread but have something to share. i have a dry shot and spray a 125-175shot at 2200rpm. 2200rpm is exactly the rpm i can brake stall to easily and i want the nitrous to hit as soon as i floor it. i have a few hundred runs doing this with no problems.

i voted yes but playing with fire. you should carry a fire extinguisher with you.

spooleliminator
02-18-2007, 08:30 PM
i always spray off the line but i have a converter desighned for it! and the stall is over 3000 :)

02NHRAtransAm
02-20-2007, 07:45 PM
maybe if i had a 9" and some 11" wheels out back....

sprung_monkey
02-25-2007, 04:30 AM
http://thumbs.vidiac.com/186e23ce-5caa-4d55-9568-af1ad2d962c7.jpg (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/186e23ce-5caa-4d55-9568-af1ad2d962c7.htm)Click here to see Video (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/186e23ce-5caa-4d55-9568-af1ad2d962c7.htm)


listen VERY carfully when the light goes green.........i tend to spray kinda early

SmaknaSS
03-10-2007, 05:22 PM
with my stock bottom end? Only 3500 to 6200 for me.

germeezy1
03-10-2007, 11:55 PM
Mine is set at 3200 RPM and since I can't get traction even N/A I have no wants to change it.

00Vette
03-11-2007, 12:49 PM
I wouldn't if i were you. just my .02 cents

billybadd
03-16-2007, 06:36 PM
Im fixing to spray right out of the hole tonite. Only a 75 wet shot to get my 60ft. down due to some very sticky et streets. The car is really bogging with my converter. (SY3500). Let yall know how it goes.

BLNLS1/RX7
03-18-2007, 05:26 PM
I begin my spray at 2500rpm at 15% and progress up at .9sec at 10% for each additional shot for an end result of 792RWHP and 835TORQUE.This is on my 1999 camaro with a forged 382cu.in. motor.

midlands
03-18-2007, 06:08 PM
Ive sprayed loads below 3000 rpm - nothing bad has ever happened

sobaka79
03-18-2007, 08:41 PM
Ive sprayed loads below 3000 rpm - nothing bad has ever happened
jinx....... :eek2:

brad8266
03-22-2007, 08:29 AM
I always sprayed a 150 shot at 2800 RPM's, never had an issue with it.

ATVracr
03-22-2007, 09:17 AM
Spray my 1st stage at 1200 rpms .... Dry shot.

Taubr Unit
04-06-2007, 07:44 PM
on my buddys car with a a4, 4.10's we just foot brake it. no window switch just a WOT switch. So its on right from the dig. Holy hell of a 60ft ill telly ou that much!

allblacksrt4
04-09-2007, 04:58 PM
i hit it right around 1800- 2000 as long as i hook. no window or wot switch

RedAlertSS
04-16-2007, 10:24 AM
Ok guys, I have a problem.. I have a Stock 2002 Camaro SS M6 with 40,000 miles on the motor, My only upgrade is the SLP exhaust.. I have a DRY 100 shot kit of NX sitting next to me and I know nothing about It, Install is no problem, but how do I use it Safely in my car.. I dont care about killing my self.. As long as I dont hurt my motor, What RPM's should I spray at and can I spray from 1st through 3rd Some one please give me a crash course on Nitrous so I dont Fuck up my 35th ann' If you could, please email the answer to RedAlertSS@aol.com

dnkynrbk
05-10-2007, 10:35 PM
mine is set at 3200 and 6400 but my shift points are at 6600 and rev. limiter at 6800 3500 stall. window switch and wot switch wet F2 kit

jakesz28
05-19-2007, 07:25 PM
I was spraying 150 shotout of the hole with a wide open switch. I did this on a 2500 stall and now on my 3600. I just installed a mallory 685 today and set it for between 3000-6300 but I'm considering 2500-6300.

John Junkins
05-24-2007, 06:01 PM
I'm not going to if I can get the Damn thing hooked up.
John Junkins

I_Need_Land
05-25-2007, 10:13 AM
i sprayed out of the hole.... i cant hook up for shit. cut a 2.8 60ft, and half a second slower et, with a 12 mph increase.

100 shot.

jakesz28
05-26-2007, 04:33 PM
i sprayed out of the hole.... i cant hook up for shit. cut a 2.8 60ft, and half a second slower et, with a 12 mph increase.

100 shot.



You need a good set of tires!!

I_Need_Land
05-26-2007, 06:26 PM
no joke. you seen the video?

look how the camera moves forward then doubles back to see me sitting at the line ahah

http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e147/cls-chicago/?action=view&current=bigsmokeshow.flv

vipershark11
05-27-2007, 12:42 PM
wow you got some traction issues with that thing. i sprayed a 125 out of the hole and got a 1.9 60ft on street tires and left off idle. with an LO3 i should add.

I_Need_Land
05-28-2007, 03:03 AM
oh hi, im that guy you talk to on aim alot.
allstock92

vipershark11
05-28-2007, 02:09 PM
o ok gotcha.

skeels
08-14-2007, 02:17 PM
Ive sprayed a 75 wet out of the hole the past 2 times ive been to the track. M6, no window switch, just WOT switch :burn: . So far so good but time to install the window switch (thinking 3k and 6k)

0utLawTransAm
08-16-2007, 05:35 PM
dont ever sprat that low

tonylittle
08-17-2007, 08:35 AM
wot switch and window switch on mine. on at 3k off at 6800

Todd157k
08-21-2007, 03:40 PM
Well, this is the official birthday of this thread. Yep, it's one year old today. With 390 votes on it, I think we've answered the question quite enough times. I wonder if Derek (the originator) has shot below 3k rpm and if so, did it all work out for you??

"Happy Birthday" to Derek's thread. :engarde:


:cheers:

moe00z
08-25-2007, 07:57 AM
hell no!

SPEEDYTRANSAM1996
09-15-2007, 10:45 PM
i spray with a 150 shot right off the line with a 1.58 60ft time so does that answer your qustion

TARZAN
12-27-2007, 12:30 PM
yep....I usually make sure my GN hooks, bogs, then kit it....wherever it may be

-Will

RAGENZ28
01-04-2008, 02:31 PM
I voted no, although with a smaller shot it won't be as bad it's all in what the motor and chassis can handle, a 75 shot at 2,000 isn't going to be the same as a 250 shot at 2,000 obviously.

Best way is to put it into numbers, we can assume the car makes 200 hp @ 3,000, you add 150 hp and the torque will be about 613 ft torque

Say the same motor makes 120hp @ 2,000 with 150 hp nitrous on at 2,000, the torque would jump to 709ft torque.

Now you add a 250 shot at 2,000 rpm you're talking about 972 ft torque vs 788 ft torque if you added the 250 shot at 3,000.

Adding 250 @ 1,500 would be over 1,100 ft torque.

Keep in mind the slower the motor is turning the harder it will be on the parts when you spray it.

You can figure it out with a dyno graph and plugging in the hp added at the rpm using the torque formula.

5252 X HP / RPM

It's also a good way to blow head gaskets.

With a smaller shot I wouldn't go below 2,500, on bigger shots 3-3,500 and up, at that point you'd have a higher stall and be leaving with more rpm anyways.

Just my .02

Jditlfm
01-30-2009, 10:25 PM
From my experience i would not hit a 125 or grater under 3,000 rpms. I had my 175 flywheel shot come on at 3000 and it hit like a brick. I thought about raising the activation point but the motor let go before I got a chance to. A smaller shot would prob be fine activating under 3,000 but the more you spray the more i would like to raise the activation point. Just my observations.

1BADAIR
01-31-2009, 12:57 AM
3000 even scares me. mine comes on at 3700. well, it never really see's that even. thats just there incase the car bogs

Ruckus46Gt
01-31-2009, 05:19 AM
I run a jetted 100 shot with nano and my switch is set to come on at 2200

Strahley
02-03-2009, 02:28 PM
Mine turns on at 3k, I don't have any reason to start it any lower (4k stall)

Cape T/A
02-08-2009, 02:22 PM
I ran 125 shot all year in 08' spraying it off the line at about 1,800 rpms about 1/2 the time. It blew in december when i hit the spray at 4,000, wtf! Other than my busted #7 piston, the rest of them looked fine after the abuse i put them through.

chris23120
02-24-2009, 08:17 AM
yes i would

Daryn
02-24-2009, 10:19 PM
since my stall is 3600 i spray at 3500 off the line. no way in hell id spray below 3000 unless i have a back up motor waiting

UL LOSE
02-26-2009, 03:28 AM
I wouldnt spray below 3000rpms. Why would you even want to?
My friend has a 2001 Corvette and sprayed at 1800rpms over and over and it started smoking worse and worse with every pass and finally he had to take it apart and ring it.

CraZee ZO6
02-26-2009, 04:41 AM
got mine set at 3600
6 speed

JDMC5
02-27-2009, 08:10 PM
I spray 150hp at 2700rpm, never an issue. Granted it's tuned.

madclown
04-07-2009, 11:02 AM
not worth the risk

98transamtx
04-10-2009, 04:01 PM
i wont!

JoeMama's GTO
04-10-2009, 08:19 PM
Hell I just sprayed the shit out of my engine at idle, definitely worth doing once...

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306961

Roger Z06
04-11-2009, 01:42 AM
Negative!

Roger Z06
04-11-2009, 01:42 AM
3200 is my magic number!

pyro719
04-13-2009, 12:17 AM
I'm seriously considering lowering my activation from 2800 to 2000, My converter is just to tight and not hitting the tires hard enough.

Ruckus46Gt
04-13-2009, 01:54 PM
question should be how many have done it etc. I already stated I spray my car at 2200-6000. I have a 3k converter and its to tight its the only way I can get it to hit right away. Car isnt going to Bogg either if i had a stick car yea i wouldnt run that low but

pyro719
04-13-2009, 10:37 PM
I agree! who has sprayed lower than 3,000? I'm at 2800 right now and working my way down!

99_Z28
04-30-2009, 12:19 PM
Picking up a dry 100 shot would I be safe without a window switch? I have a 3500 stall but it is very tight, would it zing right up to 3500 if I hit it off the line with a wot switch?

pyro719
04-30-2009, 04:31 PM
I'm sprayin mine @ 2500 now and it loves it! Still not spraying out of the hole yet but very close. Im going to 2200 next

parish8
04-30-2009, 04:35 PM
Picking up a dry 100 shot would I be safe without a window switch? I have a 3500 stall but it is very tight, would it zing right up to 3500 if I hit it off the line with a wot switch?

i would always still use a window switch, just keep turning it down till you are happy. spraying at 2000rpm is one thing but wacking the throttle off idle and spraying at 900rpm is bad. that kind of thing can happen without a window switch.

Silverback
11-18-2009, 10:03 PM
I'm betting that if you're activating significantly lower than 3000, your converter is flashing pretty close to it almost instantly, so it wouldn't make a difference what you set your rpm to.

custm2500
11-18-2009, 10:52 PM
I have a 2800 stall, set my activation at 2700 and have 239,000 mi. on the ticker. Ran 3 passes with so far and am planning on stroking the motor this winter so no idea how long it would hold this but I would be willing to bet forever.

Just to make it clear I spray off the line.

Ruckus46Gt
11-19-2009, 09:25 AM
i ended up going to 2200 rpms

pyro719
11-19-2009, 11:03 AM
I'm spraying @ 1800rpm's now took my 60ft from 2.0 to 1.7

mitch cobb racing
11-19-2009, 11:09 AM
ive been as low as 1500 i think...

WJ MARK
11-19-2009, 11:37 AM
I was spraying about 1800 rpm, due to a tight converter and couldn't build any boost at the line so my 60's were like 2.2 or worse. I was also progressive and a baby 50 shot. Not sure how low Id start with a large shot though.

transam69230
11-20-2009, 12:45 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LWZZsvXysA&feature=player_embedded

Do you guys think that I should lower my window based on this video of my launch?